Restaurant Review: Chateaubriand, Paris

new doc 2_1 For the 2014 World’s Best Restaurants, Chateaubriand is ranked #27. I ate here about four years ago, after reading a story in the New York Times about how French style was turning to upscale bistros rather than the traditional formal dining. Basque chef Inaki Aizpitarte’s restaurant was highly recommended (here’s my review from then, the price for the menu has gone up from 50 to 70 euros), I was happy to return here in January 2015. There is something brusque and confusing about arrival, I remember it from last time. This time, even with reservations, another couple barged in front of us, and I had to signal to a waiter that I wanted something. No one seemed to care. Then there was a bit of a wait, as I suspect they want to time everyone’s multi-course meal to flow smoothly from the kitchen.

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To start with, served with a tasty Chenin blanc, were a series of starters. A few tasty cheese chou pastry puffs. Then, as above, a small piece of dorado ceviche in a startling sour broth. I loved it. I missed taking a photo of another broth, as it was so plain to look at. But the combination of anchovy, fennel and coffee was delicious. I think it hit the umami spot. IMG_2790

Some tiny prawns deep-fried and with raspberry powder. Yum.IMG_2791

A salad, unusual, with some tiny barely cooked (or raw?) clams hidden underneath the leaves.IMG_2793

Served with a light pinot noir, the first ‘main’ was crab, tofu and treviso (the bitter red lettuce). Someone spent a lot of time in the kitchen extracting that sweet crab perfectly. The tofu was light and delicate, with an orange sauce that I thought was tomato based. I don’t associate fine dining with tofu and was impressed. A very interesting balance of flavours.IMG_2794

Here’s an interesting pairing for the next dish: champagne. The cod was all about the texture, soft and slightly bland. Then ribbons of radish, crunchy deep-fried sage leaves and  a sunflower oil dressing. Cédrat seems to be a large thick lemon with a thick rind. Maybe that’s what I thought was the radish. Hmm, curious. IMG_2795I think calves’ thymus or pancreas (ris de veau) is not necessarily for the faint of heart. Soft and rich, it needed the hazelnuts and walnuts to add texture, the individual leaves of the brussels sprouts were perfect, as were the pomelo tears.

Lucky us, being a pair, I opted for the cheese plate (three pieces of delicious cheese which I didn’t record) and my better half had two little desserts. The mont blanc was astonishing. It had raw mushroom in it (and tasted great!). The tostino del cielo was a crunchy meringue with a tiny raw egg yolk on top. By this time, the wine and food, I was happily giddy and didn’t manage to take photos of the last dishes.

What makes food interesting is that everyone has different tastes. My partner liked the food, but he said he liked as much watching me enjoy it. The sour flavours, the unique combinations and unusual ingredients didn’t blow him away. But I was blown away: I liked how different it was from other French restaurants, I thought the combinations were really interesting, slightly Asian but not quite: it felt new and original to me, even on a second visit, four years after the first.

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Restaurant Review: L’Alsacien, Paris

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So, I tell my better half that I want to try this Alsatian bar that I pass by to get to my most frequent parking station for my Vélib (that’s free French bike for those not in the know). It’s never open in the mornings but I’ve seen it as it opens up, looking bright but with cosy decoration, both modern and homey, as if you’re hanging around in a friend’s kitchen, but one that is new and stylish. I tell him it’s a pizza restaurant, based on an image I saw on the web.

But I’m completely wrong. L’Alsacien specialises in flammekueche, a specialty of the Alsace region, also known as a Tarte flambée. It does have a passing resemblance to a pizza, but is a bread dough rolled out very thinly, and then covered not with a tomato base but with crème fraiche and other toppings. Wikipedia tells me the dish was only made at home until the 1960s when pizzas became popular, and it moved into restaurants (there seem to be a few in Paris from Alsace) and now L’Alsacien says they are the first flammekueche bar.

I thought it was absolutely sensational. Crisp, hot, savoury and delicious. I love discovering new dishes! The service, by the way, was nice as can be.

L’Alsacien
Paris 75004
www.alsacien.com

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Do you vélib in life after love? My favourite pastime in Paris.

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While getting lost, people-watching, and wandering are among my preferred activities in Paris, my singular favourite thing to do has been riding around on the amazing free bikes, the vélibs (vélo = bike and libre = free).

It’s an amazing city for cycling, with many bike paths, and other areas with big lanes for bikes, buses and taxis. This would seem dangerous, particularly in Sydney, but the buses (and cars and taxis) give cyclists a wide berth here.IMG_2744
There are people of all ages, sizes and occupations on the bikes. It’s part of the culture and pace: in warmer weather you might see someone with a baguette in the convenient baskets above the front tire, while they are smoking or talking on a mobile phone with their free hand. It’s even easy to ride at night; the vélibs have bright lights, powered by the cycling, and it’s all very easy.

Most people wear neither helmets nor fluoro safety vests, a sign to me of cycling’s relative safety – as is the fact that people cycle in all weather. The rain is never very heavy and usually stops but I’ve still been surprised how many people ride when it’s raining. It seems the sturdy fenders prevent one from getting splattered. Now, in the cold, people are still riding, just wearing heavier versions of their stylish scarves.

There is a certain technique for choosing one’s bike. I notice that the native Parisians kick at the tires to see if they’re flat or not. But they must have more sensitive toes than my own can’t tell the difference between tires that are fully pumped and a little deflated – I give them a squeeze with my thumb and forefinger. One also should give the pedals a quick spin to see that they move smoothly, that the seat can be adjusted but stays tight (so that going over a bump, the seat does not suddenly drop six inches), and that the rubber grips aren’t missing (in colder weather, the bare metal is rather uncomfortable).IMG_2746
There is a sort of organised chaos. Most cyclists pay attention to road rules, but some do not. Most pedestrians don’t. At many pedestrian crossings, the cars don’t seem obliged to stop, just to not run over anyone. I’ve seen cars go through red lights, and the drivers give the Gallic shrug, ‘Oops’.

This all adds up to a safer feeling rather than less so, as the majority of people seem laissez-faire about sharing the road or pavement, cycling, or getting somewhere in a hurry (though of course, if someone is blocking your way, you ring your cycle bell or drivers honk).

There are many things I love about my adopted country of Australia, but attitudes to cyclists are perhaps what I love the least. Conservative politicians, colluding with Murdoch-controlled media, have somehow made cycling not a form of exercise or transportation, not a healthy ecological measure or an activity that most people do, but instead a mark of political philosophy and belief. Cyclists are wealthy, annoying, left-wing, lycra-wearing rule-breaking radicals. They must be stopped. It’s so bizarre. I’ve never witnessed another country so rapidly anti-bicycle.

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Here in Paris, a yearly membership for a vélib costs only 30 Euros, I sprung for a special card for 40 that gets me a 45 minute free ride at a time, rather than 30 minutes. My handy phone app tells me where to get or leave my bike from, but I also sometimes use it to figure out which way I’m headed! Very occasionally, I’m in a neighbourhood that is super short on bikes, or conversely the stations are too filled to park at. But I’ve found the system incredibly convenient overall.

So, I ride around, energized by the beautiful lines of sight, buildings and views, often singing stupid songs out loud: Do you vélib in life after love? (If Cher vélibed) I’m a véliber (If the Monkeys vélibed). I often get lost, and there are some tricky one-way streets (although there are a surprising number of streets that are one-way but marked clearly that cyclists can go the other way!). But I like getting lost in Paris. I’m not in a hurry and there’s always something wonderful around the corner.

The greatest gift of Paris has been to be here with my partner, and to experience its great joys together. But partners should have time apart too. S. has explored far more of the city than I while I’ve been at work, and knows it better than I do – plus he prefers the slower joys of walking, being a flâneur (as described by Edmund White). The dozens of moments I’ve experienced on a vélib, feeling the wind on my face, caught up in joy and wonder at the city’s beauty and energy, these are the moments I’ve secreted away, the little part of Paris I call my own.

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Men’s Clothes in Paris: Resale, Consignment, Thrift & Outlet

3rd arrondisement, BIS is just up here...

3rd arrondisement, BIS is just up here…

As a teenager, I always loved thrift shops because of the hidden surprises within, the bargains, and the bargain surprises. So, after developing a taste for nice clothes in Europe (with much coaching from friends who were appalled by my Canadian fleece and gortex materials and my hippie, outdoors, thrift shop style), the natural progression from thrift shops was to consignment stores or designer resale shops.

I’m not sure which were the first shops I stumbled across, but I loved looking through second-hand clothes of a higher quality, and seeing if there was something I wanted. I was scornful of designer labels in my youth, but after living in the amazing fashion city of London, I learned that there’s a reason that beautiful clothes cost more, and it’s not just the name of the brand. I found out that fashion is fun, that I enjoyed wearing nice clothes, and that finding something special that suited me was exciting.

It’s become a part of my travel itinerary if I’m in the right city. A good city for designer resale shops or consignment shops is somewhere where people wear nice clothes, and want to get rid of them on a regular basis. Women’s shops are common enough, but men’s not so much. In Sydney, there’s only Blue Spinach, which has wonderful charity sales twice a year, but their prices at their regular retail outlet are generally out of my range. Designer clothes are expensive in Sydney, and not worn by many – so even at consignment prices, prices don’t come down that much.

After a March 2011 trip to Paris, I wrote down my results from my little mission to check out some of Paris’ resale shops, known as depots-vente. That post was one of the most popular to ever appear on my blog, so after I was back in Paris for a period (Oct 2014–Feb 2015) and then again Feb to May 2016, I did some updates. Still, after travelling in NYC in May 2017, I’m not sure that you shouldn’t just plan your purchases while holidaying in the Big Apple. It’s shopping heaven! As of June 2019, my website tells me there have been over 35,000 hits on this blog post!

As I’ve discovered over time, Paris isn’t a great place for consignment stores for men’s clothes. So, the following tips include the broader categories of thrift stores (charity shops), outlets, and other used clothes stores.

Thrift Stores

IMG_2775Let’s get right to the point. The Bis Solidarity Boutique in the 3rd arrondisement at 7 Boulevard du Temple is probably the store I was looking for all along. It took me until nearly the end of my first extended stay in Paris to find it, which is a shame… or is a good thing, since I would have bought a lot more. I found the men’s section well chosen, and was thrilled to find a beautiful black Kenzo shirt for 15 euros, and a pair of Jil Sanders jeans for 10 euros. Not only that but the jeans, originally a 34” length, had been hemmed up to 30” so they were perfect for me. I was really happy with this store.

I went back in early 2016 and didn’t find anything (though if I was a larger size, I think there were possibilities). I wondered if it really had just been luck, but then stumbled on their newly opened second store, at 19 rue Lamartine, in the 9th. The guy there did say the selection here was better, as it was newly opened, but I couldn’t have been happier to find a nearly new COS sweater for 6 euros, an Agnes B. vest for 10 and a nearly new pair of pants from Scotch and Soda also for 10, fantastic bargains. Without spending time in Paris, I might not have recognised how good these brands are (and what deals they are), so I suppose that might also be advice to the truly dedicated. Spend an afternoon enjoying browsing men’s clothes at Galeries Lafayette so you can get familiar with some of brands you like, and see if you can find them in thrift stores (passing up the cast-off H&M, Zara, Uniqlo and, shudder, Monoprix clothes (a bargain department store).

I’d also recommend the Emmaus chain; a newish store on Rue Quincampoix, just up from the Pompodiou Centre has really quite a good selection of clothes for men and women, some designer wear mixed in with Zara and H&M cast-offs. I never found anything there but thought there was potential.

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Jil Sanders jeans and a Kenzo dress shirt, from Bis Solidarity Boutique, at little cost…

Resale/Consignment/Depots-Ventes

Chercheminippes seems to be an empire of resale stuff. There’s a women’s store, an accessories store, a junior store, a regular sort of charity shop, and then a men’s store at 111 rue du Cherche-Midi (in the 7th arrondisement). I actually thought the clothes were of good quality and with an interesting range. Some fabulous sweaters which I’ll go back and grab when it’s colder (“Pulls”, they’re selling them everywhere this month).

I have to say I had high hopes for Plus que parfait at 23 rue Blancs Manteaux, in the Marais in the 4th arrondisement, just off Rue Archives. Oh Paris, you’re too expensive for me. There were some absolutely beautiful suit jackets and dress shirts there… from top name designers. That’s the thing. Prices start at 100 euros and jump far up from there. I suppose if the original goods are 500 euros and you’re getting something here for 200, it’s a deal! There was a predominance of formal wear here: suit jackets, winter jackets, dress shirts. There were some shelves with sweaters and jeans in the back, but a much smaller collection. I didn’t see anything that made me even fantasize about having enough money to buy it.

Likewise for Les Beaux Mecs, at 18, rue Jules Vallès 75011 Paris. Here the prices were fairly expensive, but I didn’t see much that I recognised even. It’s a fairly small store and seemed like an OK selection but I was non-plussed.

Unless things have changed, Misentroc (63 rue Notre-Dame des Champs, Paris 75006. Tel. 01-46-33-03-67. Metro Stop: Notre-Dame des Champs) only has clothes for women.

Réciproque (88-101 rue de la Pompe, Paris 75016. Tel. 01-47-04-30-28. Metro Stop: Rue de la Pompe), in the 16th arrondissement, is the resale shop most often mentioned on the internet. There is a whole complex of stores each specializing in something – accessories, shoes, boots. I actually visited the men’s store in 2009, not this trip, and didn’t find the men’s selection particularly good. I bought an ‘Eden Park’ dress shirt that reminded me of a favourite Paul Smith striped shirt, and a ‘Sergio Tacchini’ zip-up athletic jacket in a shade between purple and pink that I can’t name. Nice enough but neither of them were favourites.

In 2011, I was lusting after Alternatives (18 rue du Roi de Sicile, Paris 75004. Tel. 01-42-78-31-50. Metro Stop: St Paul). It was a small, charming shop in the Marais that I found locked when I got there. They only wanted a few people in at a time so they can provide good service. I was drooling after various shirts by designers such as Alexander McQueen and Dries Van Noten. As of 2015, it’s open by appointment only. I’d find that awkward having the owner hover behind me while I wonder how something used can sell for 500 euros, but that’s just me.

Outlet Stores

So, having reviewed consignment stores, it seems that we need to turn to outlet stores instead. That is, I think, how Paris rolls. I wasn’t brave enough to head out of the city to the outlet mall which people talk about… La Vallée Village, which is near Eurodisney. But I understand this is last season’s stock at about 30% off, not huge bargains.

Yet Paris seems to have quite a few stores which have anywhere from five or ten to dozens of brands of clothes, that sell clothes at reduced prices. The first outlet store we stumbled across was Numero 50 at 50 Rue Ste Anne and it had some great men’s (and women’s) clothes at great prices, and they change their stock to different designers every few weeks. They focus on just a handful of designers at a time.

The scarf of my dreams, from VNeck, a little Italian brand, bought at Piscine.

The scarf of my dreams, from VNeck, a little Italian brand, bought at Piscine.

The Piscine chain (without a website, they’re found here on Facebook), I have to say is pretty fun, and I bought the most amazing winter scarf there. They have tons of high-end designer clothes, with lots of Italian names. This means that sometimes the mark-down is from 1000 euros to 300 euros, so there is still a lot of really pricy stuff. But they seem to have some better deals here and there. It also depends on the particular store. I was tempted by Bikkembergs clothes from season’s past at 19/21, rue de L’ancienne Comédie, 75006 Paris, France, and I found their branch at 7, Place des Victoires 75002, Paris interesting (particularly with a handful of Maison Margiela clearance) but I’ve found nothing at reasonable prices at the one in the Marais.

A special mention here goes to the men’s shirt shop, XOOS. Actually, Paris seems to have a tradition of very colourful men’s business shirts in high quality cotton. Coton Doux stores are all over (with some designs a bit too tacky, I think, but others OK). XOOS is the favourite store of my reiki teacher, but the last time I stopped in, I found shirts I liked at well. At the store itself, they have real deals from 16 to 35 euros, during the winter sale season, I got a few shirts for 26 euros. They’re stylish and well-made with a twist of something different.

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Vintage Stores

Paris has a ton of vintage clothes stores, and they are not really my thing. I don’t find the quality particularly high, nor anything particularly interesting and they look the same from Amsterdam to Toronto. All over the world.

Free ‘P’ Star (8, rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie) is a shop in the Marais mentioned on fashion sites. In fact, it had rave reviews, claiming ‘one-of-a-kind pieces that appeal to the Parisian trendsetters’ and that it was frequented by celebrities like Kirsten Dunst and Sofia Coppola. Sometimes, I think these blog writers just need to have something to say. Maybe they were fooled by the website, which is a fetching shade of hot pink and makes the place look really groovy. The shop has an air of cool, but is just a regular crappy second-hand vintage clothes stores, not designer seconds, with used army-gear, and plaid shirts, jeans and crazy dresses.

In the last few years, the Kilo Shop has found a really successful model. It is CRAZY how many clothes are in these vintage shops, that sell clothes by the kilogram. The thing is that there are so many clothes, in such variety, that there is actually some kind of cool stuff. If I were a fashion student, I would be buying old cool stuff, and reshaping and cutting them into today’s fashion, mix and matching some funky casual wear from here with a carefully chosen more expensive purchase from somewhere else. My boyf and I both bought Palestinean scarves. However, it’s a deceptive place. The heavier items – sweaters and coats – are really not all that cheap in the end because of their weight.

Episode, at 12-16 rue de Tiquetonne just up from Les Halles is listed on a few websites. Part of a Dutch chain, it is absolutely stuffed with clothes, crazy kimonos, sweaters, military uniforms, business shirts and more. Not a consignment store, and not designer wear, so I’d put it in the same category as Free P Star and the Kilo shop. So crammed with clothes, all over the place, on the floors, falling off the racks, that I found it even uncomfortable to browse.

And now (in August 2018), I stumble on an article that lists 9 vintage clothing stores, some of which I haven’t heard of. How’s this? I really thought I did some thorough research. From their descriptions, these look like a mix of vintage stores AND designer resale, and it’s possible that the ones I haven’t heard of are only women’s wear. Still, check out the article on Culture Trip here. Makes me want to go back!

Conclusion

Paris isn’t the right place for men’s consignment stores. I think that well-dressed Parisian men hang onto their clothes, and wear them out so they’re not in any shape for resale. The majority of the affordable items that I saw were from cheap chains like Zara and H&M and why buy second-hand items from them, when you’d be able to get them on sale there for the same cost or less?

The other thing is, of course, the feeding frenzy that is the twice yearly sales in Paris. I think this manages to capture people’s shopping energy, to go their favourite stores and designers and get the clothes from last season on sale. Here’s my report on one of them. Add to this the other options I’ve mentioned above of outlet stores, and that’s probably the way to find clothes deals in Paris.

If you’ve got a taste for designer resale for men, other cities are going to suit you better. The links to my posts on shopping in NYC and Rome are below. Or stop in at the Dress for Less on St. John Street in Islington, London (or scour London’s charity stores which will turn up an amazing amount of very high quality designer clothes… for a pittance). The bestest ever place  is the Ragtag chain in Tokyo. I’m still wearing shirts and jackets I bought from there: Issey Miyake, Lanvin, Stephan Schneider, Paul Smith… Even the last time I was in Vancouver, there were some pretty good shops these days. Turnabout had some great items.

See my blog posts on used menswear in New York City and Rome

Anyone else have advice on shopping for men’s clothes in Paris? A hidden gem I missed? Or even your favourite Men’s resale shops elsewhere? Leave a comment!

 

 

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Restaurant Review: Pavillon Henri IV, St-Germain-en-Laye

We had the special lunch on new year’s day, and what a view, a sunny clear day. It couldn’t have been better. The formula was 67 euros without drinks. The entree was a foie gras escalopine and a fleurettes of celery-truffles. We thought it was delicious. Foamy, savoury, delightful and delicious.

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The main was medallions of monkfish wrapped in bacon with winter vegetables and more truffles. I love the dense texture of monkfish, and thought it was lovely. My partner thinks you should never wrap bacon around fish!IMG_2634
It was a treat to be introduced to the ooey-gooey Mont d’Or cheese, we were given a big spoonful and a little salad.

IMG_2635And finally, I was not expecting much from the dull description ‘exotic fruit variations’ but the dessert, with multiple components, tasted exotic and tropical and delicious.

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We were most impressed with the service, young, efficient and adorable, and it is a beautiful space… and Louis XIV, the sun king, was born there after all. And look, here’s the view (well, actually from our hotel room, but this is pretty much the view…)

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Restaurant Review: Le Pourquois Pas, Paris

IMG_2763Paris’s outer arrondisements can seem a little far away, but they’re really not. To get them can also depend on train or bike route. To get home from Bagnolet in the 20th, my Vélib cycle is an easy 20 minutes, but getting there is a bit more difficult with one-way streets.

IMG_2760In any case, this is where a number of 5 rhythms dance classes are held, and as Marc
Silvestre’s Friday class finishes at 9:30pm, I thought I’d treat myself to a meal.

Hidden among Asian traiteurs (delis/caterers/take-out/trattoria) and Middle Eastern restaurants on Rue de Bagnolet is an unassuming cozy restaurant, as seen above, that had a small number of great reviews on Trip Advisor and Yelp. I’ll add to that positive acclaim.

IMG_2759I had a simple dish of pig’s cheek with a potato mash. I know I’ve had beef cheek before, and remember it being particularly tender. The pork was very tender but also had a nice bit of texture. It was very delicious. I had this with a quarter of Cote du Rhones and then, because the main was so delicious, decided to have a Moelleux de Chocolate, that was not exactly molten but nicely soft and melting in the centre.

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I felt extravagant and decided to finish with a lovely armagnac. As you can tell, I was very pleased with myself, for finding a great restaurant, and having a perfect humble French bistro meal.

Even surpassing the food was the service. I really love the slightly formal but gracious service of some of the French bistros; it felt like the gentleman was the owner or manager. A relatively simple and quick meal but I felt like I was treated like a king.


Le Pourquoi Pas
17 rue de Bagnolet, 75020 Paris
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Restaurant Review: China (Paris)

IMG_2770Ah, you get what you pay for… Let me say first of all that while my better half refused to come to this restaurant with me, I thought: hmm, those dumplings in the window look good. See, I’m addicted to Chinese dumplings and I knew that an all-you-can-eat buffet is never a good idea, and the price of the restaurant seemed suspiciously low, 10 euros for dinner.

But hey, I thought I’d give it a whirl. It was a combination of hankering for Chinese food (being Chinese) and thinking a change from the regular French bistro food would be good. It’s always busy too!

So, I went in last night, and was seated kind of in a strange position, near the cash register, which I then learned was quite a good position for reasons I’ll explain. I ordered a very cheap and acceptable pichet of red wine for 4 Euros (and it was huge) and then went to get my first serving. I had a book with me, so I figured I’d just relax and stretch out this eating experience.IMG_2771
Then I noticed the microwave ovens, three stacked on top of each other. ‘Do you have to eat up everything?’ I asked, and one of the two nice women behind the cash register replied, ‘Yes.’ Hmm… I’ve never seen this before, ever. It’s not only then got the atmosphere of a buffet, but of a student or work cafeteria where people have brought their own lunch and have to wait for it to heat up. There’s a constant line where you’re trying to decide whether to get into the small buffet area, or wait around near the door and the microwave ovens. People couldn’t necessarily figure them out either, so there was an air of confusion.

There was an interesting mix of tourists here, a number speaking Spanish, a nice older American couple, some younger folks, couples and single diners. I was amused to hear a conversation in French where a man called over the waitress to complain about a hair
… either in his food or on his plate. Without missing a beat, she said in a tone direct but not defensive, ‘I’m sorry that it’s there, but it’s a blonde hair. We don’t have blonde hair.’ You can’t argue with that.

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The food: what can I say? It was cheap Chinese food, and I haven’t had so much MSG for ages. I was so thirsty the next morning (my usual effect from MSG, though it might have been an excess of salt too). The dumplings weren’t terrible but weren’t good. The soups, thick with corn starch, were kind of good. Various other dishes: meatballs, meat skewers, deep fried chicken – they tasted like cheap Chinese food, which I don’t mind terribly though the thick gooey sauces weren’t so nice. The problem with microwaves though is that they don’t do justice to anything that’s been fried; it takes away the crispness and makes it a little soggy. What could have been a lovely Vietnamese spring roll, a nem, had that microwaved fried texture. Same with the dumplings, which would have been great steamed, but tasted rewarmed, like leftovers. So, the food ranged from tasty (deep fried chicken drumsticks) to terrible (a crab claw dumpling, I think made of seafood filler).

Served me right. If you don’t mind mediocre, rewarmed Chinese food, and you’re happy for a bargain, then you’ll find this passable. For its truthfulness, I will give it two stars, I can’t give it one because it’s not trying to be anything other than it is, but I certainly can’t call this good food.

China
70, rue de la Verrerie
75004 Paris
Cost: 10 euros for all-you-can-eat dinner &
4 euros for a generous half carafe of red wine.

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Aftermath: Charlie Hebdo

IMG_2704It’s a day after the massive solidarity rally after the Charlie Hebdo killings. Apparently over a million people gathered, with attention given particularly to the world leaders that showed up. The metro was free, to encourage people to come, and the Parisian friend I went with explained that marches in Paris have a symbolic meaning: this one, from Republique to Nation, reflected a vow to both Republic and the Nation. It would pass by Bastille, the symbol of revolution, but if it was more about human rights, it would probably have headed towards the Palais de Justice. The rally was due to start at 3pm, and we arrived around that time, meaning that we could get nowhere close to the Republic, but instead wandered around the side streets looking at the crowds. As Brice told me, ‘my grandmother always says, the best place to watch these things is on TV’.

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I thought that the mood of the crowd was… peaceful. Considering all the people, crowded up against each other, I thought that it could be tense, but there were people of all shapes and sizes, and families, and what I’d never seen at a protest before: many people had made individual signs: ‘Je suis Charlie’ on an A4 paper and taped it to their clothes. Or had written it in facepaint or marker on their faces. Perhaps a smaller piece of paper jutting from a hat. Most protests I’ve seen gather people together in groups, according to association and work, with larger banners, and while there were a handful of banners, most people marched as individuals. I found it quite charming the number of children who had drawn their own signs. I also found something quite heartwarming in the many expressions of solidarity: I am a police officer, I am Jewish, I am Muslim, I am the woman killed, we are all in this together. There are waves of applause, but I could never see why. Much later, going home, police vans drive through the crowds and are applauded, so I think perhaps the applause may have been for the police. Occasionally someone tries to lead a chant: ‘Charlie!’ Clap clap clap. ‘Charlie!’ Clap clap clap. I find it completely strange that the Charlie they speak of was originally the comic Charlie Brown who I grew up with, a symbol of America, but now changed to represent something French, and in a much different context.

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I was glad I was with a Parisian to ask about signs I didn’t understand. He didn’t understand either. ‘Charlie Abdo’ said one sign: Charlie abdominal. Another said, in reference to the French tradition on epiphany of hiding a porcelain toy (or bean) in a pastry called ‘Galette de Roi’, ‘I haven’t got the bean’. What? Brice had no idea either. The truth is that in the middle of the crowds, I never once had a good view of it; all I had was a sense of huge crowds all around. The closest experiences I’ve had to it, funnily enough, are gay pride parades. Except that people had much more clothes on. In fact, I had to comment that while it was a demonstration, they were the nicest dressed demonstrators I’d ever seen. Parisians are extremely well dressed.

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A number of friends have asked what the mood of the city is, but really, I can’t tell. I don’t have a lot of contact with people here, I ride by them on my bicycle, I pass by them in the busy street outside our apartment. But how could I tell how they feel? There are many signs in the windows. At UNESCO where I’m working, there are numerous ‘Je suis Charlie’ posters, as well as official statements about UNESCO supporting freedom of the press and freedom of expression.

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Tonight, I felt the urge to write something down, as well as put up some of the photos I took at the rally. It’s not all baguettes and fromage here in Paris; and this incident is a jolt of reality, considering most of my blog posts and facebook pictures are of the Eiffel Tower, pastries and meals at restaurants.

Friends also ask whether I was near to the event. Paris is so concentrated, it was a bit of a shock to think how small the location was that everything happened in. The Charlie Hebdo offices are about a 15 minute bicycle ride from our apartment. A day or two later, I went to an event in the 20th arrondisement, which is not so far away from the incident at the Kosher grocery store. I did feel during those days a bit of terror. When it happened, I thought right away to the incident in Martin Place in Sydney, less than a month ago. Two people were killed in that incident, and it brought the city to grief and flowers. Here, so many people more were killed and the killers were still on the loose. What would happen to this city?

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I’m not sure really. But I have been following the news closely the whole time, the whole array of comments from around the world, everyone weighing in, pundits and journalists, and Facebook friends forwarding the articles or hashtags that touched them the most. It’s a strange world; it feels unsafe from terrorists in a way, and also unsafe from expressing one’s opinion, a maestrom of debate and tension and opposition. Living in Paris for this period made me feel it was appropriate to say… something. But I thought it easier instead to adjudicate the articles I found most useful.IMG_2723

This was my post to Facebook:

‘Paris is sad and on edge. There is a rally planned for Sunday. Our workplace held a minute of silence at noon yesterday.

I found these commentaries about the Charlie Hebdo killings the most enlightening. I think all of them have a common thread: let’s not jump into judgements, theories and rhetoric but seek to understand, the basis I hope for action.

When the rallies are over, killers are caught and the next tragedy takes over the news cycles, what I’d hope to see are real ways forward, government leadership matched with community expertise and knowledge to find specific national and local solutions, not universal slogans or fear. 

Omid Safi hopes the French response will be, ‘a renewed commitment to a robust and pluralistic democracy, one which encompasses marginalized communities’.

The piece by Juan Cole says to me that countering anti-muslim sentiment is the more important gesture than defending free speech which feels both like a no-brainer and also a distraction. Could the terrorists, rather than attacking the right to expression, be trying to create anti-Muslim sentiment to recruit more members? If so, the Australian response to the Martin Place killings, ‪#‎ridewithme‬, seems even more amazing.

Lastly, Australian Chad Parkhill’s piece in Junkee questions the hashtag ‪#‎JeSuisCharlie‬ and asks us to ‘respect the dead by trying to understand where they were coming from, and resisting the urge to make Charlie Hebdo stand for something it never has.’

Food for thought.’

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To these I’d add a few more articles (through their coverage, I was reminded what a good newspaper UK’s the Independent is):

Robert Fisk’s commentary taught me about the atrocities in Algeria of the French government. I’ve found myself wanting to say after the incident that this was a result of madmen and lunatics, and I’ve heard others describe it as so. But that puts the reasons for it in the realm of mental health rather than the socio-political. I was familiar with the American involvement in propping up dictatorships such as in Chile, Guatemala and Nicaragua, involving the killings of thousands of innocents but wasn’t familiar with the French equivalent. It’s not an excuse of the killings, but as political commentators point out: we need to look at the political context for what happened, not ‘security problems’.

Patrick Cockburn is one of these voices, and I’m unsettled to read his article, pointing out that in 2001 al-Qaeda had a few hundred activists confined to a few camps and towns in Afghanistan and Iraq, and now after a ‘war on terror’, ‘al-Qaeda-type movements control large areas of Iraq and Syria and dominate the Sunni Arab armed opposition in both countries’ and are linked to terrorist attacks like Paris has just experienced.

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The newspapers tell me that somewhere around  2,000 young French citizens have gone to Syria and Iraq to fight with the militants. The issue of ‘security’ and controlling these citizens seems short-sighted. What are the larger causes of discontent? How can people like these be engaged in society, and government start to address socio-economic inequality and disenfranchisement? My years of working in the HIV sector tell me that community-based solutions require working with those affected by an issue or problem. I fear that a march of a million peace-abiding citizens, expressing solidarity and support for freedom of the press, won’t have a long-term benefit. After all, isn’t that what the terrorists wanted? A reaction? While it is a reasonable and honourable sentiment to say that love will conquer hate, I don’t think the suicide bombers and violents Islamists really care.

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There is of course the other issue arising just today and yesterday, the massacre of 2000 people in Nigeria by Boko Haram, and how it throws into sharp relief the difference in attention by the world to Western lives compared to others. What’s with that? the Independent writes.

But it’s obvious, of course. We relate to, and grieve, about what we can understand and imagine, and here in Paris where some cartoonists have died, and police officers, and those in a kosher grocery shop, I can picture them, just as I can see the two who died in Sydney last month, and I am sad for their families and loved ones, their cities, and this strange, terrible world we find ourselves in.

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Christmas and New Year’s in Paris

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Christmas lights up on Rue de Sèvres

I haven’t spent a full winter in a cold climate for 15 years. The weather is crisp and clear, and sometimes below freezing, but not particularly cold. Still, it took a long time to remember how to dress in layers easily, and how to keep track of all the winter gear need, the gloves, the scarves and hats.

A small milestone has passed, the Christmas and New Year’s period. Even months before, it was something that friends would ask about. And now it’s passed.

I stretched it out! Christmas lights went up in the streets: not too showy, quite elegant, we thought. My morning cycle to work became colder and brisk. All December, I rode while sing Christmas Carols, loudly, along the Seine, under the Eiffel Tower’s watch, or past the Christmas displays in the windows of the Bon Marché, where even the lights from cars and traffic signals converged with the holiday glow. Chestnuts roasting over open fires! Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow! Hark the herald angels sing. It never felt right to me singing cold weather Christmas carols in Sydney’s 30 degree heat, so this year, I indulged.

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The snow dome of Christmas trees under the Eiffel Tower.

We went to a performance at Théâtre Chaillot by the Batsheva Dance Company, from Israel on Christmas Eve: ‘Decadance’, a selection of ten of their works: beautiful and unexpected movement.

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View during dinner at the Théâtre Chaillot

Afterwards, we had a late dinner in the foyer of this vast and grand building with one of the best views of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. The lights sparkled every hour for five minutes; we were there for the 10pm and 11pm light show while served a most excellent three course meal, but for midnight were riding our bikes down the Champs-Elysées from the Arc de Triomphe: lots of people wandering around. I guess that’s what tourists do in Paris for Christmas.

On Christmas Day, we had a quiet morning, spoke to family by Skype, went to an incredible special lunch at Atelier de Joël Robuchon Etoile (see the blog post for photos), and spent the rest of the day recovering.

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Pavillon Henri IV is behind the trees and to the right.

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Les Parterres, the park right next to the chateau.

 

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Les Parterres

On 31 December, we took a train just 40 minutes to the outskirts of Paris, Saint Germain-en-Laye. The lovely old hotel, Pavillon Henri IV, recommended by a colleague, turned out to be part of the chateau where Louis XIV was born. They’re very proud of that.

There is a magnificent park next to the chateau, with miles of perfect rows of trees and sculpted bushes and pathways, running along a historic wall with a view of Paris, La Défense closer by and the Eiffel Tower far in the distance. We went for a lovely stroll through it on New Year’s Day.

The town itself was rather charming and old, and there we bought baguettes to go with the foie gras we’d brought, and a Gallete de Rois, a traditional pastry for the 2nd of January (we thought we’d start early). Layers of crisp puff pastry stuffed with frangipane, sweet almond paste: delicious.

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The cake of kings…

We skipped the expensive party the hotel was hosting, drank a special bottle of champagne, as recommended by a sommelier pal (Jerome Prevost’s La Closerie), ate foie gras and brie de meaux, watched Downton Abbey on a laptop, and managed to stay up past midnight, somewhat of a struggle these days.

As the sky darkened, the lights of the city became in comparison more bright.

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Paris, New Year’s Eve, 2014.

Through our hotel window, Paris stretched out wide in front of us and into the distance. I’m not sure I’ve been in a similar geography before, feeling like we were up on the edge of a wide pan, rather flatter than around where I grew up in Vancouver. We didn’t think there would be fireworks, but there were some quite close by, on the nearest banks of the Seine, and we saw others in the distance (with a brief flare from the Arc de Triomphe at midnight).

IMG_3101Far in the distance to the right: the strobelights of the Eiffel Tower at midnight, sparkling as we’d seen them on Christmas eve, though the rotating beacon continued on and on after that (as it does all night).

In the morning, the whole city slowly glowed pink and red and then became progressively lighter, welcoming the new year.

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The morning is coming, 1 Jan 2015

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Morning, 1 January 2015

 

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Bûche de Noël overload in Paris

IMG_2591My better half, S., asks me ‘What’s this obsession with bûches de Noël this Christmas?’

The simplest answer is that my family has been also obsessed with bûches de Noël, or at least one bûche de Noël for about 40 years.

But first, if anyone is unfamiliar, a  bûche de Noël, or yule log, or Christmas log, is a traditional French or Quebecois Christmas dessert, a sweet roulade with sponge cake named after the original yule log, a big log to be put in the fire during Christmas celebrations.

Our family’s bûche de Noël comes from Notte’s Bon Ton Pastry and Confectionary in Vancouver. The Christmas Log is beautifully decorated with marzipan mushrooms, and flowers and leaves made of butter-cream icing, dusted with chocolate flakes, covering a rolled sponge cake with a dash of alcohol (rum?) and more layers of butter cream inside.

If anything, we’re faithful, we Quans, and once we’d decided this was our special Christmas dessert (not only because we liked the taste, but because it was slightly unusual in anglophone Canada), it was ours… forever. This cake, eaten in Vancouver, or… transported to Hawaii on a regular basis… was also frozen afterwards, if there were leftovers, and I somehow remember eating it well into the spring on occasional years (it was like magic pudding, it seemed to multiply out of sight).

This is the bûche from this year, 2014, transported from Vancouver to Hawaii, and very fetchingly displayed with some Hawaiian foliage (good job, family, on the presentation!). The frog pastries aren’t a part of the log, but we always seem to stick them in, as the green marzipan and red butter cream match the colours quite well. And I suppose frogs would hang out on a log.

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Living in Paris for a few months, I hadn’t really considered that this would be an excellent place to try some yule logs… but a month or two ago, my friend Karyn sent me this link to some ridiculously luxurious Parisian yule logs. You see, she lives in NYC, and every time the New York Times writes an article about an amazing new restaurant or bakery in the Big Apple, I implore her to go… so I can eat vicariously. ‘I’ll eat the dumplings in Queens if you eat a gorgeous xmas bûche for me!’ she replied, last time, and the challenge was on.

The next trigger was when we were visiting my favourite macaron store in Paris, Pierre Hermé. Buying their Christmas flavours (foie gras and fig, foie gras and chocolate, and white chocolate and truffle… perhaps a post for another time), the pamphlet they slipped in with our purchase included descriptions of ridiculously delicious-sounding yule logs… like this one. I had, in fact, made up my mind to buy a mandarin log, that served 2-3 people, and was… cough, 50 euros (the one in the photo is 80 euros). But when we went into the store, orders were only online, and while they tried to sign me up with an iPad, something went wrong. pierre herme buche

Instead, I came home, surfed the net, and decided that there many more yule logs to be had, at rather more affordable prices.

But even I was surprised by how many I was able to try. The first one, at the top of the page, was a surprise from S., because ‘I was so obsessed’. It’s from the bakery two minutes from here on Rue de Lombards appropriately named Boulangerie des Lombards. For a humble bakery, this pastry was pretty darn good. Its flavouring and texture reminded me of the one from Bon Ton. It’s cute that they build it on a little cookie base.

The next one was a nice surprise, the dessert for our Christmas Eve dinner at Theatre du Chaillot, after a dance performance by the Batsheva Dance Company. Adorable, no? Mostly chocolate cream, a cute crunchy meringue star, and set on a sweet biscuit.

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At Christmas lunch, at the amazing Atelier du Joel Robuchon Etoile, the penultimate course was an individual Buche de Noel, or perhaps I’m just pretending it was. They made it look like Santa’s sleigh, calling it ‘Le Traineau: parfait glacé á l’arielle, crème de marron de l’Ardèche, meringue croustillante’. The meringue cracker was a miracle of engineering, the star was of white chocolate, the splotch of chestnut cream with a flake of real gold flake, and a tiny ice cream log wrapped in red. Gorgeous.

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My yule log research uncovered a wonderful discovery. Romain Lievre is a young and talented pastry chef who has opened up a store at 27 rue Saint Jacques on the Left Bank. Their website said they not only did a pretty chocolate yule log, at a reasonable price, but individual logs for 6 euros each. They looked tasty, interesting and a bargain. I was rather surprised then when I went into the store, and found that the individual version of the logs were in fact little santa hats. I thought I was culturally confused, but a fellow came in just after me, asked for the individual logs, looked at the hats and said, ‘that’s not a log,’ and left. I bought them anyways.

What was completely delightful about these is that they look relatively simple, but the insides were a rich chocolate butter cream that seemed to have a sophisticated flavour, and another bit of non-chocolate cream or icing.  There was also a small blob of coconut cream in the middle, soft and cold, surprising. S. didn’t like that part but I did. On the whole the Santa hat was rather complex, and completely tasty. I’ll be heading back there to try more of his pastries!

IMG_2589And finally… my favourite Belgian chocolate maker, Pierre Marcolini, also makes a version of a yule log, which seems rather conceptual. It’s more like a little yule IMG_2533house. They didn’t have any available on Christmas Eve, so I ordered them for New Year’s Eve, one each in three flavours: vanilla, chocolate and chestnut. I picked them up on the 31st though noticed that for all my plotting and worrying about getting yule logs, bakeries all over Paris had leftover bûches in all sizes in their display cases.

As for our gorgeous yule houses, one couldn’t say that these weren’t rich and creamy, but they were less so than the others, more restrained. The meringue roof concealed flavoured cream, there was another crunchy meringue and then below, another few spheres of creamy goodness and a raspberry or two on top of a meringue base. It was all a very refined combination and almost fooled one into thinking, with the meringue crunch, that it was light.

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Five bûches. I think I’ve done my duty. I’m signing off to waddle off down the Seine.

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