French food adventures: Gandoyau at La Gargantua, Chinon, Loire Valley

IMG_5115So, we completely adored Chinon, where our dear friend R lived and worked many years ago. He recommended the restaurant at La Gargantua where he worked, and which apparently in his day was a pretty fancy place.

IMG_5125Now, it seems to have changed. It’s called the Gandoyau, though is still part of the hotel. The food is simple and tasty with a local touch. Their suggested local aperitif was a sweet red wine served in a clay goblet, which felt properly medieval (to suit the surroundings). IMG_5123

The stuffed mushrooms as an appetizer was tasty, though plain.

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For my main, I couldn’t resist trying out a selection of local smoked fish (and eel).

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While my better half had coquelet, spatchcock. When he ordered it, I thought he ordered a ‘coquette’, a flirt, and amused myself greatly by this (he has since informed me that he did not say coquette!) . That sauce was good.

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But this was my highlight: Ile flottante! A hunk of meringue floating in custard. I’d had a rather fancier version of this in Sydney at Tetsuya’s, but perhaps this is truer to the original recipe. Delicieux!

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73 Rue Haute Saint Maurice
37500 Chinon
France

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Coffee in Paris: KB at the Beans on Fire, Bastille

IMG_5007 IMG_5006So, boohoo, we left our cute AirBNB in Montmartre, where we were a stone’s throw away from South Pigalle, where we hung out at our favourite coffee place of this trip, KB.

But fortune was smiling upon us. On the weekends, KB takes over a cafe that was only a block or two away from our new AirBNB near Bastille. The Beans on Fire looks pretty cool, in any case, and has good ratings on Yelp… But serving up our favourite coffee and sweets by KB: from boohoo to woohoo!

On our last morning in Paris, we hung out here at a table outside. There’s a pretty park nearby too. We watched a large flock of cute five-year-olds (that’s my guess) walking along holding hands. Adorable.

7 rue du Général Blaise
75011 Paris
France
11ème, Chemin Vert/Richard Lenoir

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Food Diary: Ahgora, Glebe

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Sometimes it’s a good thing to not know anything about the restaurant you’re going to. Usually, I’ll have done some research or read a review, but I’m a little out of the loop. So, when D & G recommended trying this restaurant (with our entertainment coupon, we’re junkies), I thought it would be fun. Also I love Greek food.

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Strangely though, while certainly one would recognise grilled haloumi as a Greek dish, we weren’t sure in some dishes whether there was much of a Greek flavour profile, or whether it was just Greek inspired. Or so modern Greek that we didn’t recognise it. But… it didn’t matter. This was an absolutely sensational meal. We all loved it.
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Plates designed to be shared… the grilled haloumi was delicious. This ravioli of haloumi was also lovely.
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Crispy grilled chicken, moist and tasty, with some sort of yoghurt sauce.
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Possibly the stand-out. Four absolutely perfect roasted squares of pork belly, a rich dark sauce, and matched perfectly with a light salad. These were little bombs of crispy pig fat, and sensational.
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Desserts did taste more Greek inspired to us… and we got a nice selection of various ice creams with various pastries (baklava, a passionfruit slice).

IMG_5192This was all washed down with a Monowai Pinot Noir 2013 from Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand. We liked the flavour and the match.

What else to say? The service was gracious. Ah, one of our dishes didn’t come, and we would have been too full to eat it, but the host gave us little glasses of dessert wine, generously, in light of that mistake.

The decor is modern and classy, with good lighting; it also felt like there was a buzz about the place. That others were just as excited as we were to be discovering such good food.

Ahgora Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Food Diary: Thanh Long Vietnamese Restaurant, Surry Hills

IMG_5184Thang Long is an institution. Any restaurant that manages to last over a decade in Surry Hills, crowded with its restaurants and cafe, is showing some staying power. They turn out tasty, traditional Vietnamese food at fair prices. The flavours seem authentic, and the service is always pleasant.

P.S. That’s John’s hand.

Thanh Long Vietnamese Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Bangbang Cafe, Surry Hills

IMG_5182There are many great things about Bangbang Cafe in Surry Hills. First of all, it’s a few minutes from my apartment. It’s a pleasure to pop over for coffee, meet folks there for business meetings, and recommend people who stay with us to go over as their first port of call.

I’d mention the coffee as of key importance. In fact, a year or two ago, it went through a phase (as I suppose cafes do) where I felt conflicted, because I liked the cafe to hang out in, but I wasn’t crazy about the coffee. But now, they’re back up there with the best in Surry Hills: strong and delicious.

IMG_5179The cafe’s gone through some big changes. Years ago, when I first arrived in Sydney, it was a great cafe called Plissé: excellent food and sweets. If memory serves, it went through one or two other incarnations which were sadly mediocre until Alan Thompson, the DJ, took it over with a British-inspired menu, and groovy decor. Alan’s moved onto bigger and brighter things at Barista and Cook in Green Square. I happened to try and get in on opening day (we didn’t mean to go on opening day!): it was so packed that we were warned we wouldn’t even be able to get a coffee for 45 minutes. Better luck next time.

Alan’s a hard act to follow so I’m pleased to see Matt and his crew putting their own spin on the place, changing the decor and moving in a new direction. They’ve mostly kept the delicious breakfast menu, but are switching things up for lunch. Looks good. I’m looking forward to trying it out. The inventive burgers have caught my eye.

IMG_5178I’ve so far stuck to the breakfast menu, and it’s delicious. The classic corn fritters of Sydney… here served with crispy bacon, two poached eggs, and maple syrup (photo at the top!). It was really very good, even though I found it a touch salty on the day. But beautifully presented, and portioned… and… well, it was yum. A mate who had the same thing found it a bit rich for a weekday , but admitted he loved the maple syrup. My friend who had blueberry pancakes found them delicious, and I thought the serving size was just right (since in North America, you often get a stack as big as your head).

IMG_5180Oh, and the pea, feta and avocado mixture I had on toast this morning was very, very nice.

IMG_5204In the meantime, just outside the cafe, something is going on, and this is what I freaking love about Surry Hills. How beautiful is this?

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The endnote is a disclaimer: Matt shouted me and my mate for breakfast. Did this make me more inclined to like him, the cafe and the meal? Yes. But this is the kind of place that I have reviewed in the past, would review in the future, and if the meal (or something else) was poor, I probably just wouldn’t put write a review (and would feed comments directly to them). That’s-a my philosophy for now re: food blogging and getting shouted…

Bangbang Cafe Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Paris Food Adventures: Le Pantruche, South Pigalle

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This veal ravioli is a good example of what they do at the bistro Le Pantruche in Pigalle. Nicely plated, a beautiful balance of flavours, and a complex forest of ingredients, the greens and mushrooms, some foam, some sauce and I think it was an olive tapenade.

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But what a great discovery. As recommended by Sandra at the men’s consignment store Zac & Joe, this is an updated bistro in the super-cool neighbourhood of Pigalle.

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We had an appetizer, a main and a dessert each. The appetizers and mains were rich and savoury, and complex. The meats (lamb and duck) were beautifully cooked.

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Various vegetable garnishes added texture and contrast.

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This soufflé au grand marnier, caramel au beurre salé (grand Marnier soufflé with salted butter caramel) was superb, as was the selection of cheeses.

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This was one of our favourite bistro meals in Paris, with very fair prices, and friendly service. High recommendation.

3 rue Victor Massé
75009 Paris
France

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Paris Food Adventures: Jeanne B, Montmartre

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After living in Montmartre for five weeks, I think we only scratched the surface of all the bistros, restaurants and bars on offer. I’m not sure we were once disappointed, and how could we be with dishes like Croque Homard. If you haven’t guessed, that’s the classic Croque Monsieur but with a twist. Delicious toasted brioche with a generous serving of lobster and various sauces, and an absolutely perfect delicious salad.

As you might guess then, I loved Chez Jean, introduced by a work colleague. We arrived nicely early, so it was empty. The beautiful and charming waitress showed us the specials, and not being super-hungry, we ended up splitting an appetizer and dessert, and both had the Croque Homard!

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I really love the simplicity of a steamed artichoke. It reminds me of how Mom used to prepare it for us on a rare occasion, though the dipping sauce here was a step up from the Best Food’s Mayonnaise that we used (which is not a terrible thing).

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The dessert, a light cloud of passionfruit mousse, was gorgeous.

Oh, and I can’t forget to mention that the wine of the month was a Morgon, so we split a bottle, and my god, it was delicieux!

61 rue Lepic
75018 Paris
France

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Paris Food Adventures: East Side Burgers, 11th

IMG_4902 Having failed to get into Deux Fois Plus de Piment (on a Friday night, of course this would happen without a reservation), we wandered back past the Boudin Noir on offer at Diablito Latino and decided to see what a vegan burger is at East Side Burgers.

IMG_4900With a variety of choices, I opted to try the vegan bacon with cheeseburger. It was… uh…: relatively small (which is good); the patty tasted vaguely of beans, the cheese of cheese, and the bacon was an amusing colour but didn’t taste of much. Not sure what could have made it taste better; it was a fair imitation of a fast-food burger but… Points for contributing to a healthier planet, and in a hipster atmosphere (the outside table looked nice, the posters on the walls were fun)…  I wouldn’t be rushing back to try their other burgers though.

I would have liked to try their homemade coleslaw (I love a good coleslaw) but they were sold out. The fries were awesome though; very crisp and with an addictive quality about them. Nom nom.

60 bd Voltaire
75011 Paris
France
11ème, Chemin Vert/Richard Lenoir

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Madrid Food Adventures: Churros at Chocolatería San Gines

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I had churros in Spain! And it was a funny little story to get there, as while I had this very place written down in my travel notes, I didn’t remember at the time when we were searching for it. My guide, Peter, also couldn’t quite remember both the name of the churros place he wanted to take me to, nor its location. But after some wandering around, we stumbled across this one, which seems to be one of the most famous in Madrid, established in 1894! One of its shopfronts had a large line outside it, so we snuck into the one next door and were seated right away. Churros have been adopted into restaurants all over the world, so I’ve certainly had different versions of churros over the years, but often snuck into a dessert with ice cream, and without the chocolate.

So what does the original taste like? Those star-edged deep-fried donut sticks are crisp and light, and taste somewhat delicate, and not greasy at all. Dipped into a thick melted chocolate mixture, much akin to a good French hot chocolate, it is a delightful combination of liquid and crunch, sweet (but not too sweet) and a little savoury. Just four euros an order… and a beautiful Spanish experience.

Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5
28013 Madrid
Spain

(near Sol metro)

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Rome Food Adventures: Glass Hostaria

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Now, isn’t that beautiful? This was the the second course of a ten-course dinner from Rome’s Glass Hostaria, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Trastevere, helmed by an Italian chef who did her training in the States (and has the American-sounding name Cristine Bowerman but was born in Puglia).

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If we can, we like to treat ourselves to a special meal in places we travel to, and this was a recommendation from my friend Costanza. Certainly a special night out, with many courses to let the chef show off, and by international standards, 110 euros for ten courses is very reasonable for a restaurant of its type.
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The first course, as seen above, was a selection of tiny amuse bouche, and that gives a good flavour of the place, literally and conceptually. The presentation was amazing, the plating up and the plates itself. I missed taking a photo of the very first offering, a butter-cream sphere filled with cinzano, and resting atop white sugar: also a little theme here, resting the food on something not to be eaten, sugar, rose petals and tea, the bread below resting in popcorn kernels…

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Radish wrapped around a fish tartare…
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Ah, I particularly liked this one, the char on the fish, barely cooked and a big shiso leaf, I think it was shaved fennel below. While we found the flavours of the preceding dishes tasty but one-note, this was complex and sophisticated.

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And the pasta dishes, of course, being in Italy, were what really impressed me. The most delicate ravioli with sea urchin… just a taste of the sea but with the beauty of pasta: slippery and chewy and luxurious.
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A simple broth with truffles. Sometimes, I think I ‘get’ truffles (the first time I think was a dish with soft polenta), and other times, not. Shaved truffle just tastes a bit woody to me. I like the flavour but not necessarily the texture, which can even make me forget the flavour!
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This lamb was done really nicely, and we loved the gold dust on the carrots! Strange but pretty effect. The service was very attentive for the most part, and charming. We opted to do one wine flight with the meal, which was to have 5 glasses. But for some reason, the sommelier just seemed to forget about us. He didn’t look busy, particularly, but neither could we get his attention, so I receive 4 out of the 5 wines (and was charged for 4, not 5) yet, matching wine with food is a great pleasure, and missing one of the wines meant I didn’t have wine with some of these courses.
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While I’d have the same comment that I don’t appreciate shaved truffle, this pasta with very long aged parmesan was incredibly rich, and with an unfamiliar flavour and power. Yes, I’ve had parmesan but probably never of this quality. This was my top dish of the night: unforgettable. IMG_4839
A jumble of greens, fruit and spices (it was actually hot and spicy), I think this was meant to clear the palate, or shake things up, before the dessert. Nice presentation; I thought it was just kind of weird.
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Although simple, this yoghurt semi-freddo, with flowers, and a sweeet syrup was also one of my favourite dishes. I really liked the texture and flavours.
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I found the decor of the place all over the place, strange texture on one of the ceilings, crazy railings to the staircase leading up to the mezzanine, plexiglass panels in the floor with rocks and bottles underneath, a bit like a Disney amusement park ride. I’d have to say it felt dated to me, and I’d recommend finding some locals artists to showcase in these many wall recesses rather than these tacky jars of dried beans.
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Finally, a selection of petits-fours, beautifully presented, although the same issue as the amuse-bouche. They were tasty but not stand-out, the prettiness and quantity were what stood out.
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In all, we were certainly glad to come here. There were a few standout dishes, and for me, a few misses about the night. After the meal, on returning to Paris, we had a much better meal at a non-Michelin starred restaurant (inventiveness, tastiness, cost), and I think I wanted to like this restaurant more than I did. Maybe it would been better for us to choose from the regular menu, carefully.

But that’s 20:20 hindsight, and anyways, I’m off to dream about that parmesan ravioli…

Glass Hostaria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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