Sydney Food Diary: Zambo, Surry Hills

We were lucky enough to try Zambo for Valentine’s Day dinner. It was a fun night out, seeing the wide variety of couples that Surry Hills encompasses. I’ve been wanting to try Zambo for a while. What a change from the purposeful cave that Marque created; Zambo is much more open and light. It’s right next door to Besser… so two Italian restaurants as neighbours could be a good thing or a bad thing (in fact, one couple came into the restaurant thinking they were at Besser).

Zambo is aiming at the fine dining market… and offers both a four and seven-course degustation (they added an extra course for this special dinner) as well as the a la carte menu. The food is witty, with a nod to more casual and humble eating, but is definitely on the fancy end of the spectrum.

I loved their Signature Austral-iano snacks. Oysters and verjus granita and a lamington, or what kind of looked like a laminton but was actually home made ham, balsamic vinegar and fennel seeds and instead of a batter or bread, it was pork!

The ‘Pie that wanted to be a Pizza’ was a perfectly crisp pie shell oozing with the flavours of a margarita pizza. And some nice homemade bread there too…

The zucchini flower with this pretty solidified goat’s milk cover, spelt crunch and almond polenta was a great combo of texture and flavour. One of my favourite dishes of the night.

I did wish we’d gone for the eight-course menu so we could have had the ‘Love explosion’, agnoletti filled with liquid basil cream. Doesn’t that sound good? Instead our sole pasta was lunghetti pasta with hand-picked Spanner crab, chives and crispy bread. Tasty indeed. Reminded me of the pasta that I’d had over at Acme in Kings Cross.

Spanish mackerel was the fish of the day, served with a capers emulsion and roasted corn. I loved the thin slice of corn on the cob, how it was roasted. Very elegant. I’m going to try that. I like mackerel. It’s rich. My better half thought it had a bit of a strong flavour, appropriately fishy. Maybe not his favourite.

The organic veal rump with wattle seed, spring onions, and red cabbage was perfectly done. The roasted onion was so packed with flavour.

For dessert, poached cherries, white chocolate, mascarpone and cocoa nibs. Again, a very nice interplay of textures.

We did the matching wines and had a great little tour of Italy, through the various matches (all excellent). All in all, I thought it was a very nice meal. I wonder how it will do in Surry Hills’s tough market. People do have money here… but seem to be favouring more casual dining at the moment. I’m not sure if regular evenings feel as formal as this one did; I suspect it might, the ghost of Marque hovering around with an exacting eye (and palate). I’d say you should be able to get a feel of the place from the photos and this review: if you think you might like it, I’d say give it a try!

Zambo Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Movie review: Miss Sloane

I was just musing to my better half: when did TV become better than movies? The question was in relation to what I think is stunning: the series, The Crown, as well as the start of the second season of Transparent. Wow.

Case in point: Miss Sloane. I had some high hopes for it. The pitch, exploring the world of lobbying and ethics, sounded fine, and I’ve not seen much of Jessica Chastain but she gets good reviews.

But it kind of seemed like a poorer version of TV shows that I’ve watched. Some court room scenes and shenanigans like the Good Wife, but without the wit and fast pacing. A protoganist who is ruthless and scheming and has questionable ethics.

Well, the Underwoods from the House of Cards would chew her up and spit her out for breakfast. And similarly, while Miss Sloane wasn’t particularly likeable: that’s not a problem. I could watch Robin Wright’s character on House of Cards all day long. I just didn’t find Miss Sloane very compelling, particularly as she’s a cypher: there’s absolutely no explanation of how she got to be the way she is.

Another trope from House of Cards, how to win votes and influence senators, felt plodding and unpredictable. Seen it. Other aspects of the film felt TV-like but not in a good way. The junior lobbyists are all roughly the same age, and a rainbow array of races and types and appearances. It felt very constructed. The pal I watched it with commented that it felt like it was dumbed down to appeal to a broader audience.

The hooker with a heart of gold idea was not made any more original by having the sex worker in question be a man. A scene where the courtroom gasps in shock that a male sex worker has female clients in Washington. Get over it, you old-fashioned prudes!

The pacing was really very slow, and overall the film lacked wit. But it wasn’t absolutely terrible. The actors were all very watchable, and I didn’t mind the preposterous ending, which at least gave me some drama. In fact, if the film was a faster-paced 90 minutes, I think I would give it a higher rating. As it was, it might have reached a 6.5/10 though was probably more like a 6.

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Sydney Food Diary: Old Town Hong Kong Cuisine, Chinatown

In the movie ‘Miss Sloane’, they show the title character not cooking for herself and viewing food only as fuel by eating at the same casual Chinese restaurant. ‘How do you always eat here?’ asks another character, implying that it would get boring. But none of this really rang true for me. Aside from the fact that it was a dumb way to establish character (and not really mentioned again), it looked like one of those Chinese restaurants that has a huge menu, not unlike that of Old Town Hong Kong Cuisine, and if you like Cantonese food, you could return to again and again.

In any case, the movie wasn’t that great, but it made us hungry (because it was too long) so it was appropriate we ended up here, at the funky end of Dixon Street, which seems to have 90% hotpot restaurants at the moment.

Yes, as the other reviews here have mentioned, it’s pricy, but it’s cheaper than a trip to Hong Kong. Once a large table of noisy university students had left, it was tranquil enough upstairs. Our $40 bottle of Riesling was very nice, and honestly, the food was delicious. Soy chicken and roast duck, a combo plate. Perfectly done shiny mushrooms and vegetables. And while I should have opted for plain rice, I decided we DESERVED fried rice that night. All up, $100 for the both of us (including the bottle of wine). A tasty meal, with free prawn crackers and watermelon to end.

Old Town Hong Kong Cuisine Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: S’Age Bistronomy, Crow’s Nest

It was a fun little adventure to head up from Surry Hills to Crows Nest on a Tuesday evening for dinner at S’Age Bistronomy. Billed as Japanese with French influences, it’s located on a corner on Pacific Highway, formerly Waqu, and the waitress told us perhaps long ago a bank.

The space is cool and beautiful, with a clear Japanese aesthetic (it helps to have sake bottles on the bar). The views out of the window are a little unfortunate, the traffic and not very pretty buildings. But settle in, and ignore the outside world.

I think they’re doing a very interesting thing here, offering diners a special meal experience if they desire with a degustation, but also offering more casual fare (and interesting cocktails). It’s a mid-range restaurant, quite inexpensive I think for what you get (and cheaper glasses of wine than most places I’ve eated at lately in Surry Hills).

We opted to pick and choose different dishes from the menu and got to try an interesting range of chef’s techniques. Loved the duck liver pate filling of the beetroot macaron, though the macaron was a touch too crisp for me. Great combo of flavours.

The squid ink lavosh and smoked cod cream seemed deceptively simple, yet the texture of the lavosh and the intense, beautiful flavour of the cream made this a standout. Also, presentation was very nice.

My better half commented on how the bonito sashimi (with smoked soy and raspberry and a delicious black garlic cream) tasted of the sea; I thought the sashimi tasted very high quality. A great dish. Photo at the top of the post.

We had high hopes for the glazed lamb ribs with sweet potato, but alas, it was not to our taste, even though I give full marks to the complicated system set up for the finger bowl and bones! I’ve never seen such a system. Somehow I’ve gotten used to slow-cooked ribs, melt in your mouth, but still crisp on the outside. These were tender but not done in the same technique, and the potato was underdone.

But this dish: what a dish. And a humble side dish too, for only ten bucks. Thrice cooked potato with burnt butter. It was the essence of deep-fried on the outside (but not greasy) and then soft and creamy in the middle. The hint of the guilty pleasure of junk food (or really good fish and chips for example) but so perfectly done, it had to come from a fine dining restaurant. The burnt butter sprinkled on top just made it even better.

To drink, we had cocktails, a Fragroni, a negroni with amaretto mixed in (I slightly prefer the original’s bitterness but this was good).

And a salty sake, an interesting concoction with lime, cointreau. salt and sake and yuzu – but I couldn’t taste any of the sweet notes at all. It really was salty and sour. Cocktails are only $16. A bargain! I also had a very nice glass of organic Italian pinot grigio. Yum.

It was just one of those nights where we couldn’t fit in another dish, nor dessert. But left happily sated after our culinary adventure in Crows Nest.

S'age Bistronomy Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

We dined as guests of S’Age, but the opinions above are my own. In the meantime, what’s up with the Zomato ratings? It’s listing 3.2 out of 5 from 10 votes, but of the 8 public votes on the page, there is only one 3 and the rest are 4’s and 4.5’s. Certainly not an average of 3.2 unless two anonymous voters both gave a 1 star without rationale…

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Movie Review: The Great Wall

I suggested Lion and my friend said he can’t stand anything with Nicole Kidman in it. I suggested Hidden Figures and he said that he’d read a review with the lead actor that said they’d really sanitised the book it was based on. He suggested Silence but reviews have been mixed and the idea of missionaries colonising Asian people makes me kind of queasy.

So, the Great Wall it was!

And you know, the thing is: it wasn’t terrible. I’d read the controversy about whether Matt Damon was cast as a White Saviour for Asians. And he’s not, although he is the focus of the film, the individual that gets the most attention. As a friend pointed out, the Chinese might have been quite pleased that they could afford to hire Matt Damon for their film, and use him for their purposes (though I discover it’s a co-production, and the writers and producers all have Western names; only the famous director, Zhang Yimou (and a cast of thousands) are Chinese). In any case, I could find ways, perhaps of being offended in a minor way (it would have been nice to have Chinese heroes with the Whities really as secondary), but I can’t get worked up.

What the film seems to be is a regular big budget action movie, with monsters and special effects, that has a Chinese setting, mostly Chinese actors, and a somewhat Chinese sensibility. The rather large army is dressed in different colours according to their role, and I disconcertingly thought they looked like a bunch of Wiggles.

Photo from Universal Studios

But the scenery is amazing. The costumes are amazing. The actors are beautiful (especially Jing Tian, the female commander). The script is basic and passable, without any laugh out loud ridiculousness. About one-third of the way from the ending, the script completely seemed to fall apart, with gaping holes in logic.

But with my expectations so low, I was more than pleased that I didn’t hate it.

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Sydney Food Diary: BBQ Galbi, Waterloo

Why go to a Korean BBQ restaurant and not have the BBQ? Any number of reasons, really. Korean Fried Chicken. BiBimBap. Well, that was our decision on a quiet weeknight.

This is a pretty charming and casual place in a little complex with other Asian restaurants, probably at least two other Korean ones and at least one Vietnamese.

The staff are friendly and welcoming.

However, the funniest moment was when the Mama-san brought us the wrong BiBimBap, and then smiled very sweetly and basically said, ‘You can order the one you want next time.’ And she dropped the plate on the table and ran away.

I’ve had Korean Fried Chicken before which is… well, orgasmic. If found this mixed. Some pieces were really tasty; others not as much. It was still pretty good. We had the standard one (no spices or flavours).

The BiBimBap was tasty, neither terrible nor special. I thought the selection of pickles was pretty good. We had cans of Korean beer to wash it all down.

BBQ Galbi Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Shinmachi, Newtown

Shinmachi advertises itself as Japanese Tapas. I think it was called Wagaya and changed to the present incarnation around April 2016. David and I popped by here on a Saturday night after seeing the bizarrely not terrible movie, The Great Wall. It was packed when we arrived, but cleared out a bit. It’s a fun, fast place.

We loved the iPad ordering system, with iPads attached to the walls near each table. David is vegetarian and there was more than enough to please us, though we couldn’t resist ordering both the Nasi Denkaku (eggplant) and deep-fried tempura eggplant.

I also had the fun sake tasting, four cups for $12 from different regions, as indicated on the map. I wish the sake was cold though, rather than room temperature.

We also had deep-fried lotus root (delicious), a vegie sushi roll, and for dessert, black sesame ice cream with a matcha pannacotta (and some sweet red beans underneath). Very tasty.

The food was very tasty, and came out quick, and possibly wasn’t fabulous, but that’s not what we were expecting. It’s tasty enough, not expensive, and the experience is rather fun. All up for the two of us was only $65 (and only me drinking). The bill could be larger if you indulge in the various amusing drinks they have here (pear sake!) but if you’re after cheap, this is inexpensive. I’d be happy to drop by for a quick and easy meal here anytime at all.

Shinmachi Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Coffee in Sydney: Crown St Grocer, Surry Hills

Crown St Grocer is a bit of an institution, selling high-quality and slightly expensive Italian food and deli products. They have a great range of cheese.

And the coffee is just fine. What better outlook on a morning in Surry Hills than to watch the world go by at Crown and Albion?

Crown St Grocer Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Movie review: Moonlight

I’ve heard rumblings of Moonlight for many months now, since movie critics started mentioning its first appearances in movie festivals. And then suddenly it was being nominated for major awards, appearing in all of the end-of-the-year top movie lists, and now, in February 2017, it’s arrived in Australia.

I had a fun little experience leading up to seeing it. I was offered by Roadshow Films to see the premiere (I was still on Christmas holidays) but then got sent some free movie passes, and three more pairs of tickets to give away. I offered them up through Facebook, reaching far more interested friends than I would have gotten through Twitter or Instagram, and used a website that does random selections to choose the winners. It was fun.

We finally saw the film this weekend and my, oh my, is it good. I was influenced by what I’d read which I remember said either it was impressionistic or lacked narrative (but was beautiful) and that there was a sad ending. But I didn’t find this. It had a strong narrative, as we watch a Chiron as a boy, a teenager and as a man, and though the circumstances in the film are sad generally – the poverty, the drug selling and addiction, the violence – there is a moment of redemption that however long it lasts is so very sweet.

The film is bathed in beautiful colours; filmed beautifully and the actors are superb. There is something amazing in the writing and the acting for one of the main themes of the film to be the inability to talk, to express oneself; it linked the actors so strongly together that in the last third of the film, I found myself for a moment really believing that only one actor rather than three had presented this life.

I’d also have to say that this was one of the most interesting and subtle depictions of gay sexuality and identity, or the suppression of both. The script is not hiding that Chiron is recognised by other young boys as different from them, that he is bullied because of his sexuality as a teenager, that his longing for a man’s touch hurts him so much as an adult.

But the film is about so much more in how real it feels, the specificities of experience, the many complex emotions it renders and brings up, and this very tough setting with moments of quiet and moonlight that peak in from time to time.

I loved it.

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Food Diary: Ippudo Ramen, CBD, Sydney

IMG_4139C’mon. This place is the bomb.

Famous around the world (apparently); they’ve figured out how to meld cool Japan with hip Sydney. Their branch at Westfield CBD is effortlessly hip.

IMG_4141The Argentinean host called out to the rest of the wait staff in Japanese as we entered the restaurant, whereupon they all greeted us in that Welcome-To-A-Japanese-Restaurant way. It’s lovely and raucous.

When I’ve been here before (and now there are a few branches in Sydney), I’ve been unable to resist ordering extra food: the pork belly buns perhaps, or any of the other yummy looking smaller dishes. But one bowl of ramen is usually enough for me, lunch or dinner.

IMG_4142In January 2016, my better half and I dropped by for a meal. I ordered a summer special with a clear, light and tasty chicken broth, rather than the usual ridiculously rich and thick tonkatsu broth. It was perfect. My better half, who ordered the traditional ramen, was pleased with his.

Then in February 2017, I came for lunch. I had a craving. And so pleased was I was the oyster special ramen of a few months ago, I decided I had to try the daily special. And I’d even go against my better judgement and have some eel and rice with it.

I mean: this was really crazy and delicious. Cheese in the soup! Grano padano! Check the official description:

A creamy concoction of a ramen made by blending our signature tonkotsu broth with special spicy sesame paste. Topped with original Tan Tan pork mince miso, coriander, Grana Padano cheese, roasted cashew, diced red onions, IPPUDO chilli oil, and a slice of tender pork belly chashu.

And here it is:

A big ball of spicy pork in the middle. The soup was rich and slightly thick. The slice of lemon was perfect to add some light zesty citrus. I’m surprised I also managed the side dish, a perfect little bit of sushi rice with bits of eel, not too generous a serve, but fine, and some cucumber pickles:

Best was at the end, as recommended, dumping the last bits of soup and leftover bits onto the last of the rice and mixing it up.

I met a ramen fanatic a while ago and I understand what he was saying: Ippudo is pretty expensive (this was $17 for the ramen and $3 for the rice/eel). And it sounds like you can hunt for other interesting ramen in town. But for now, for me, Ippudo really is the tops!

Ippudo Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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