Food Diary: Ippudo Ramen, CBD, Sydney

IMG_4139C’mon. This place is the bomb.

Famous around the world (apparently); they’ve figured out how to meld cool Japan with hip Sydney. Their branch at Westfield CBD is effortlessly hip.

IMG_4141The Argentinean host called out to the rest of the wait staff in Japanese as we entered the restaurant, whereupon they all greeted us in that Welcome-To-A-Japanese-Restaurant way. It’s lovely and raucous.

When I’ve been here before (and now there are a few branches in Sydney), I’ve been unable to resist ordering extra food: the pork belly buns perhaps, or any of the other yummy looking smaller dishes. But one bowl of ramen is usually enough for me, lunch or dinner.

IMG_4142In January 2016, my better half and I dropped by for a meal. I ordered a summer special with a clear, light and tasty chicken broth, rather than the usual ridiculously rich and thick tonkatsu broth. It was perfect. My better half, who ordered the traditional ramen, was pleased with his.

Then in February 2017, I came for lunch. I had a craving. And so pleased was I was the oyster special ramen of a few months ago, I decided I had to try the daily special. And I’d even go against my better judgement and have some eel and rice with it.

I mean: this was really crazy and delicious. Cheese in the soup! Grano padano! Check the official description:

A creamy concoction of a ramen made by blending our signature tonkotsu broth with special spicy sesame paste. Topped with original Tan Tan pork mince miso, coriander, Grana Padano cheese, roasted cashew, diced red onions, IPPUDO chilli oil, and a slice of tender pork belly chashu.

And here it is:

A big ball of spicy pork in the middle. The soup was rich and slightly thick. The slice of lemon was perfect to add some light zesty citrus. I’m surprised I also managed the side dish, a perfect little bit of sushi rice with bits of eel, not too generous a serve, but fine, and some cucumber pickles:

Best was at the end, as recommended, dumping the last bits of soup and leftover bits onto the last of the rice and mixing it up.

I met a ramen fanatic a while ago and I understand what he was saying: Ippudo is pretty expensive (this was $17 for the ramen and $3 for the rice/eel). And it sounds like you can hunt for other interesting ramen in town. But for now, for me, Ippudo really is the tops!

Ippudo Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Hokkaido Baked Cheese Tart, World Square

Ah, what would the world be without new tasty treats. A world pretty damn short of new tasty treats, I’d say. So, spotting this pop-up counter in the basement of World Square: I mean, we had to try it, right? Though I knew nothing about them.

Great packaging of course, as the Japanese do so well. And the tiny tarts looked like the pastry might not be very interesting or flaky. Instead it was a great short pastry, crisp and flavourful.

And then in the middle, a very soft custard, with a quality of a mousse, rather than the egg centre of a Cantonese egg tart, or a Portuguese tart. Definitely something different. Not super sweet, but sweet. I found these pretty delectable. At four bucks a tart, they’re pricy, but if I’m passing by a counter, I would rate my chances of buying one rather high.

Apparently, these are popular in Japan, and have been brought to Australia (branches in Sydney and Melbourne) by the Malaysian company that does the PappaRich chain (which I must try).

Hokkaido Baked Cheese Tart Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Schnitz, Westfield Bondi

I like the feel of the food court at Bondi Westfield lately. I liked the last version too, but it’s good for a change. We usually go for something fried and Japanese, but Schnitz caught our eye. I like a good chicken parmiagiana.

Funnily enough, this was not what we got. They gave us this before we figured out that my better half had ordered a wrap. However, he said he was expecting more, and that there was something missing. He just can’t put his finger on it, but it wasn’t tasty enough.

Mine on the other hand was a plain chicken parmiagana with fries. The fries were covered in chicken salt and perfectly crisp. Very tasty. And the parmiagana had a nice covering of moist tomato sauce, just enough cheese and was very crisp. Not a huge portion, and for lunch, that’s just fine. The average of our scores… well, I liked mine. I’d day that drags his 2 stars up to a 3.

Schnitz Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Good Luck Pinbone, Kensington

So, it would seem like you have until the end of July 2017 to get to the pop-up restaurant Good Luck Pinbone, which took over from a Japanese takeaway, and whose building will be demolished at a certain point.

I’ve mentioned to friends numerous times that I’m finding a delightful irony in some Sydney restaurants. When I was growing up in Vancouver, ALL the chefs were Chinese. You could be in a hotel restaurant, a Greek restaurant, or a local cafe: the chefs were Chinese. When restaurants starting getting more authentic in Vancouver, they demanded that the chefs had more than a passing training in the cuisine were cooking, so there were less Chinese chefs in non-Chinese restaurants! Here in Sydney, I’ve been amused that white Aussie chefs have fallen in love with Asian food, travelled to Asian countries and trained in Asian cooking, and now in Chinese (or Thai) restaurants, there are non-Asian chefs! Like at Good Luck Pinbone.

I’m not sure whether this makes the food better or worse (and am also reminded of being invited over to a Jewish friend’s for dinner in my university years, and he cooked me a Chinese meal far better than I could have made at the time). In the case of Good Luck Pinbone, the food is fantastic! It’s a mix of some very authentic Chinese flavours, with some interesting additions (like above, kingfish belly toast with bacon)

The four of us opted for the set menu. Also in the old days (I know, I know: I talk about the old days a lot): at Asian restaurants when you ordered the set menu, it was usually because no one could make a decision. You got the easiest dishes for the kitchen to make, and they’d charge you more for it. But here, almost everything on the set menu was on the regular menu; it just made sense to order it.

Where are the photos? Oops. I was too busy eating (and enjoying myself). Suffice to say, I thought mostly everything was terrific. Along with our BYO, it was a great night. They even gave us a complementary serve of the Scorpion Fish (if you’ve not seen one live, google it). It was a bit bony, but tasty, and when do you get to eat Scorpion Fish?

Decor is basic, but in an amusing hipster sort of way. The focus is on the food, and if the restaurant is only around for less than a year, let’s not worry about fancy furnishings, shall we?

Good Luck Pinbone Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Young Alfred Bar, Circular Quay

Good old Sydney went from absolutely swelteringly hot to a torrential downpour on early Tuesday evening.

I’d wanted to try the Spice Room in Circular Quay but man, is that place busy. Perhaps it’s a go-to spot for pre-theatre meals. I haven’t been able to get in there so far.

Likewise with Cafe Ananas. I’ve had a drink there before, and eaten at the previous restaurant, but without a reservation: nope.

Next effort: the Customs House Bar is listed in the Entertainment Guide. I thought that was an option for an easy and quick meal. But why would the Customs House Bar be so far away from Customs House. I couldn’t find it, not knowing that it was all the way over near the Basement Bar.

So, the Young Alfred Bar served us just fine. A glass of white wine, a very delicious pasta dish with ragu (and orecchiete), and the pizza, thin-crusted and crispy, was also delicious. $74 for what we got was awfully steep, but prices are high the closer you get to the Opera House. Better deals would take better planning than we did that night.

Young Alfred Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: A Brewer’s Tale Cafe, Darlinghurst

This little corner of Darlinghurst goes through rather a bit of a changeover and it’s taken me a while to get to this latest incarnation: A Brewer’s Tale Cafe.

I stopped by twice for a hot drink before I managed to come in for breakfast. The menu is really interesting with some Asian-influenced items. There’s hot coffee, and cold-drip coffee and various other coffees which makes me embarrassed to just have ordered a large latte. There’s bags of coffee to buy. This would seem to be a real coffee aficionado joint.

I came back with my better half, and he had a very good matcha latte (slightly savoury as it should be and I had a delicious taro latte. It was sweet and reminded me of marshmallows. I liked it.

I was a bit sad though to finally get in for breakfast and order what I’d spotted on the menu: matcha hotcakes. With two heart-shaped matcha chocolates, Persian fairy floss, red beans, a poached pear and a very pretty fruit salad, I was expecting this to be… pretty wonderful. But it felt to me like it needed something to pull the elements together, a syrup or sauce. Everything was pretty dry. North American pancakes are served smothered in butter and maple syrup or golden syrup; the indulgence comes from that combo of starch and sweet. I just don’t think pancakes and fruit salad are a good combo, really (except in a breakfast buffet)

My pal seemed happy with this mushroom dish, and look how pretty it is. So, perhaps it was just bad luck for my choice combining with my taste buds.

On a Sunday morning, it was packed (though not as packed as Rusty Rabbit on the corner), has a lovely open feeling, and the service is superb, friendly, young, good-looking people.

A Brewer's Tale Café Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato 

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Sydney Food Diary: Black by Ezard, Star City (Pre-Theatre Menu)

I don’t often have two reviews up for the same restaurant but this recent meal was much different than the first, which was a special Entertainment dinner with Penfolds, matching food with wine.

This meal was a pre-theatre one (before the slightly odd Australian musical Ladies in Black) and it was so delicious, I thought it was worth a blog.

With a shorter menu to choose from, and the choice between two and three courses, this made things pretty simple. We both chose the prawns to start with, and not only was it a pretty dish, but it was so perfectly balanced, with a hint of spice, and a healthy citrus punch, I couldn’t stop raving about it.

What was slightly strange about this meal is that some of the dishes were so thrilling that when they were just OK, they stood out. Oh well. The price you pay for greatness. We thought that the fish, with a simple salad and green condiment was a bit plain.

On the other hand I was wondering how they would elevate gnocchi to fine dining, and well, this is the answer. Beautiful, delicate pieces of gnocchi, in (again) a perfectly composed dish with a stuffed zucchini flower and various other yummy ingredients.

We couldn’t resist ordering some extra sides. Again: a contrast. The mac and cheese was so rich, with an interesting sharp flavour to it. Orgasmic.

But I didn’t find the cauliflower as interesting at all.

My dessert was beautiful, light and interesting.

But is there the same theatre with any other dish on the menu than this one:

All in all, I was blown away by the quality of the food, and offered for a pre-theatre set menu. With gracious service, and a nice airy space, this was GREAT.

BLACK Bar & Grill Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Book review: Sharon Olds’s Odes

OdesOdes by Sharon Olds
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

I feel some surprise to think how long I’ve been reading the poetry of Sharon Olds, perhaps to find myself so old! From her first books I read, I was shocked by her confessionals of her difficult family relationships and her exaltations of her body and sex. I loved her long lines and the way she jammed together images and metaphors and wordplay in ways that seemed to build power and never become tangled.

Seeing the title of her latest collection, I had a moment of doubt. Could she have enough variation of theme to keep my interest, if keeping only to one mode, the mode of odes?

I had to say I loved them. Take ‘My Mother’s Flashlight Ode’ where in her typical fashion, she’ll focus on a quotidian object, in this case a flashlight, and suddenly render it fantastical, in this case the batteries inside of it turned to ‘winged monkey bombs’. Two peak emotional experiences are described – trying to get to her mother before she died, and trying to guide a confused and ill mother back to bed –and suddenly the flashlight has become her mother flashing her, the ‘pink-white meteor of her unclothed body’, and finally the mother becomes Olds’s light, her lantern.

Other reviewers have commented that they’re not shocked by the poet’s love of being somewhat shocking, in writing about what others aren’t writing about, and also a lack of playfulness, but I was delighted to read about hip replacement, wattles, cellulite, a douche bag, and Olds’s unmatching legs, along with more serious odes to friends or relatives passed. There may be a few poems like ‘Sick Couch Ode’ that are more rambling and a bit lazy. But there are so many startling and energised phrases and images in these poems as a whole.

I also seem to recall previous books having sections very, very tightly focused on one relationship, or on one emotional theme. In Odes, I liked the contrasts and variations, a lightness of voice in describing the body’s decay and faults, yet still a strong emotional core, questions and references to how we are made, how we become who we are.

I wrote most of his review after having finished six of the seven sections, but wanted to get some thoughts down early. I couldn’t resist reading some of the other reviews on Goodreads and in other publications of Odes that show readers really engaging with the book, whether they like it or not; the negative reviews still show close reading and knowledge of Olds’s body of work. I think it makes good conversation for what we ask of our poets and writers, how we expect them to change or stay the same, whether a flaw is loveable, or not quite.

I’m not sure how much I was affected by the reviews then, that did point out a few flaws: for example, drawing attention a few times too many the way she is writing about things others may not, or when the poem’s revelatory moment spins from the mundane to a cosmic image, or to one of music – I think this trick was repeated too often.

So it was strange to find reading the last section that I moved from excitement and praise to thinking that the themes were repeating too many times. I don’t mind a poems about vaginas but I do want them to tell me different things, rather than stay in similar descriptions. The odes to dirt and then a compost toilet really did seem to start getting mundane. So, perhaps not a perfect collection… but all in all, still pretty amazing.

View all my reviews

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Sydney Food and Drinking Diary: The Bar, Sir Stamford Hotel, Circular Quay

Just a block or two up from Circular Quay, this is a great location for a drink or light dinner, on your way to or from the Quay, or as a destination on its own. The Bar has a fun Ye Olde World feel, kind of a combo of a businessman’s club in the 50s or an old pub in England. It’s clientele is laid-back, guests of the hotel, and groups of friends relaxing after work, or before going out.

The best thing is that they’re live music with musicians singing and playing on a grand piano on Wednesday (somewhere around 6 to 9pm) and Friday nights (starting a little later than 6pm).

Sit back and listen to some music in an intimate setting with a good selection of wine, craft beers and cocktails, and the bar menu covers all the bases with some Argentinean grilled skewers, Asian dishes or standards like a garlicky spaghetti or a somewhat expensive looking burger. I had a beautifully done Cambodian curried barramundi on one night, and last night we split some starters: grilled mushrooms, very tasty lamb riblets, and some very tender skewers of beef. But now, I basically tried most of the menu, and everything’s is pretty good.

The perfect amusing finish to the evening, if you can drink coffee late at night (I can’t, it wires me up badly) is an affogato. Look at this version. You won’t find it outside of a hotel bar, I’d think. You mix it up yourself. Delicious.

The Bar - Sir Stamford Hotel Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Travel Diary: El Calafate to Torres del Paine (and back!)

If you are travelling from Sydney to Latin America, it seems that the routes divide between your frequent flyer plan. If you are with One World, you go through Santiago (and from there to anywhere else) and if you are with Star Alliance, you go through Buenos Aires.

We’re Star Alliance!

So, in organising our trip to Latin America at the end of 2016 and 2017, we based ourselves out of Buenos Aires. With a priority to see a bit of Patagonia, this meant a particular itinerary: driving from El Calafate (in Argentina) to the national park, Torres del Paine (in Chile).

It seems that not too many people do this travel, and the research that we found on the net is a bit out of date. So, a few words of advice:

  • Yes, it’s worth it. Seeing the amazing Perrito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate was fantastic. It’s an amazing glacier. A wonder!
  • I read a review online that said it’s not worth it to drive from El Calafate to Torres del Paine, and it’s true: the landscape it barren at times.

  • But if this suits you, it’s fine. The freedom of having a rental car instead of having to go on a bus tour is great, and it’s only a couple of hours, and you’ll see the fabulous guanacos (the local llama) en route, and some pretty amazing views.
  • Gas (the local fuel needed is called nafta, we needed Nafta Super 95) is limited. Fill up in El Calafate (if there’s no fuel shortage) and again in La Esperanza (where you can also buy junk food to eat for the travel). Then, if you’re heading to the park right away, be careful. There’s no gas at all in the park. The closest is Puerto Natales. Some folks fill up extra plastic tanks with gas to help out. We just made sure we had enough.
  • On the Argentinean side, before the border crossing, the turnoff isn’t that evident. There’s a big sign that shows the different provinces of Argentina! But it doesn’t say: this way to the border! However, you will go off the paved highway and go onto a gravel road (except they were doing work on it, so maybe it will be paved by the time you get to it).

  • We drove around the park over two days, not long distances, and were OK to get from there to Puerto Natales.
  • There’s huge confusion about how to pay to enter the park. As of January 2017, it’s 21,000 Chilean pesos for foreigners (about 40 Australian dollars). Everywhere on the net, it says that credit cards aren’t accepted, but at the moment, they are. The time is limited, something like 9am to 12pm and then 1:30pm to 4:30pm… (I’m not 100% sure of this).
  • If you are coming from Argentina, there is also the possibility to change currency, at a terrible rate, at the souvenir shop just after the Chilean border crossing.
  • My recommendation. Plan in advance (we didn’t). And get at least 21,000 pesos per person in Chilean currency, just in case you don’t arrive at the right time at the park, or if their internet (which connects to the credit cards) isn’t working.
  • Or have enough US dollars or Euros (Argentinean pesos don’t cut it).
  • But you could also take your chances to try and pay with credit cards.
  • I went through unnecessary worry with the outdated information that the park doesn’t accept credit cards, and that it’s hard to change Argentinean pesos to Chilean pesos en route…
  • Otherwise, Torres del Paine is absolutely beautiful and well worth the journey.

  • Our last night, as a change of pace, we stayed overnight in Puerto Natales and found it very pleasant indeed.
  • The border control process can feel chaotic if there are lots of people there, but we found that the border crossings in each direction weren’t terrible.
  • It might be terrible if you’re stuck behind a tour bus, and it can be a little confusing, but overall was fine.
  • If you’re in a rental car, you have to show your special rental car papers (and get them stamped) by the customs desk (only one person per group has to do this). You MUST get the permits to bring the rental car across stamped by customs going in and out of each country, so you’ll rack up four stamps by the time you get back.
  • Also, each person has to show their passport (there are two lines, entrada to go into the country and salida to exit). On the way into Chile, you also have to do an agricultural inspection. They might check your car, or might ask you to bring your luggage into the building for a check. Don’t bring salami or fruit!
  • So… two steps when exiting Argentina and then soon after three steps to enter Chile. And on the way back, two steps at each border.
  • Good luck! Feel free to ask questions!
  • Don’t drive too fast and kill the beautiful local animals…

Posted in Advice, Travel | 18 Comments