Sydney Food Diary: Barzaari, Marrickville

I love a restaurant in an unexpected place, and while I’d heard about this much-lauded restaurant in Marrickville, it was still a surprise to walk along a humble section of Addison Road to find this stylish fit-out among the other storefronts. We had a seat at the open window, lovely with the setting sun, ordered a bottle of Spinifex Vermentino (the cheapest wine on the menu, about $40, very drinkable), and settled in for a great dining experience.

I’m not sure we could find fault in anything. The food was interesting, flavourful and fresh, often with a texture or taste that surprised me in a good way. The service was warm, friendly and efficient. A bit of grilled fig, one with a slice of pork, the other without, was melt-in-your-mouth goodness.

A little cheese pastry number was like the nicest canapé you’ve had all week.

Grilled haloumi has its downmarket version, served at many a cafe in Sydney. But this wasn’t it. Grilled fruit, fresh herbs, long cucumber slices, and of course, perfectly done haloumi…

We had two other vegetarian dishes (the waiter patiently pointed out which dishes had no meat). I loved the grilled broccoli with labneh and dukkah and grilled grapes; my pal loved the brussel sprouts in a somewhat sweet sauce, not as charred and grilled as I like ’em but nice.

The dessert was the only thing that confounded us. Watermelon balls, ouzo sherbet, jelly and I think an almond custard. And a candied fruit and fresh grilled dill, I think. There was a lot going on, perhaps too much.

Yet all up, what fun. Loved this place. Will come back. I think it was $90 each, including the wine and a somewhat generous tip.

Barzaari Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: La Renaissance Cafe Patisserie, Waterloo

We were browsing carpets in PYD. Yup, we were.

In need of coffee, and perhaps a little snack, we stopped by here. We actually did a macaron class here years ago, so we know the quality of the pastries and they really are beautiful creations.

We decided to go with a little less sugar and decadence this Saturday morning and so just had a palmier (which my family called ‘palm ears’ when I was growing up; I’m not sure whether they were joking or not) and a croissant.

But were tasty. The croissant was flaky and crisp and had a nice buttery flavour, though I am rather critical having done so much croissant research in Paris. I thought this was fine; not the best I’ve had, but certainly OK.

The coffee took forever though. It wasn’t busy; they were just really slow.

La Renaissance Cafe Patisserie Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Buenos Aires Food Adventures: La Cabrera

  Clocking in last year at #33 on the Top 50 restaurants in Latin America list, La Cabrera seemed like the obvious choice to try a traditional Argentinean grill during our recent trip to Buenos Aires. Located in a fun, chic neighbourhood, Palermo Soho, we were seated inside and it was like a magical cave filled with crazy artwork hanging from the ceiling and sort of every space and corner filled with some sort of decoration.

The service was exhuberant! The only fault was that they could have told us that we had ordered too much food. The steaks already come with sides, so many little interesting dishes, that the delicious empanada and grilled provolone we ordered as appetizers were unnecssary… and then only after I had mostly conquered the largest steak I had ever seen, larger than the size of my face, did he mention that people often split it between two of them.

In any case, the flavours were intense and delicious, and the atmosphere terrific and we ate far too much (and drank delicious Argentinean wine). Also, it’s easy enough to book online through their website. I’d say this is a must for meat-eating tourists!

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Sydney Food Diary: Adriano Zumbo Patisserie, Circular Quay

The Zumbo empire expands. And why not? I think the fame is not (only) based on his appearances on Masterchef and then his own dessert competition show, but because he makes beautiful pastries.

I stopped in for a look. I didn’t know Zumbo was doing savoury. I grabbed a pate brisee tart, with pumpkin and pine nuts. My god. The pastry (as expected from a pastry chef of this quality) was delicious, buttery and crispy and falling apart in all the right places. Instead of six bucks, this is the kind of thing that could be considered a high-end dining appetizer at double the price.

Didn’t take photos. Was too busy eating. Nom nom nom.

Adriano Zumbo Patisserie Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Book Review: The Selected Stories of Mavis Gallant

The Selected Stories of Mavis GallantThe Selected Stories of Mavis Gallant by Mavis Gallant
My rating: 3 of 5 stars

A university lecturer named Francine Prose praised Mavis Gallant’s short stories effusively, yet precisely, in this article in the New Yorker.

http://www.newyorker.com/books/page-t…

This article, among other reviews, and curiosity, and living in Paris for a time, a Canadian in Paris, made me want to get to know Mavis Gallant’s work.

I confess though, that her Selected Stories, which spans – decades, overwhelmed me.

I was impressed to be introduced to so many social contexts that I was unfamiliar with. One was sort of an urban counterpart to Alice Munro’s farm stories, and yet even more specific, Anglophones living in French Canada in the 30s and 40s, and then various kinds of Europeans, often travelling to another part of Europe or immigrating there, living in different cultural enclaves or in different social strata. Bureaucratics, intellectuals, critics and writers, poor hoarders and those who’d inherited wealth, women in unhappy marriages, or waiting to get married. It is quite a dizzying cast of characters, and often introduced with very specific cultural details.

Woven often with satirical social observation and a sharp tongue, I was drawn into some of the stories, particularly interested in the lives of women aiming to be independent, or find love, or a partnership. She was no prude either; characters are remarkably frank in their affairs.

And yet, at other times, I found it hard to engage with some of these unlikeable characters: a literary critic described at great length, mostly in relation to a rival, for example, was a character study but with little story.

But I do think that I chose the wrong format to meet Ms Gallant. Too many stories made me rush through them, which is against Ms Prose’s advice, and downloading it to read on my iPad also gave the stories less weight, made them more ephemeral than they are, and less likely for me to stay with them, return to them.

Certainly an interesting writer though and I’m glad for those who are fond of her gifts. The thesis that she wasn’t recognised because no country could claim her properly as her own seemed correct – and she does seem to be the patron saint of global citizens who have lived in different cities and cultures, observing life keenly as an outsider.

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Coffee in Sydney: Bread & Fill, Circular Quay

Hmm. Coffee at 11am on a Saturday. In search of a little fuel in between the Max Dupain-inspired exhibit at the State Library and the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Three people behind the counter but not enough staff: the cashier was taking orders and payments and trying to make the coffee at the same time. A bit of a wait and a queue forming!

Coffee was fine, especially with baklava from the gozleme ladies nearby. But if the Espresso bar had been open, I have the feeling it would have been better.

Bread & Fill Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Happy D’s, Redfern

Hilarious.

My kingdom for a wine glass with a dumpling illustration on it!

Happy D’s is a very happy place with a long, fake, ironic fishtank, a kick-arse neon sign and a good selection of drinks (wine, beer, sake and cocktails) and dumplings.

Hang out at the long counter after entering the humble, non-descript hole-in-the-wall sort of entrance.

Eat dumplings to your heart’s content, while drinking and chatting with friends. On a Thursday night, early, it was quiet enough for a good conversation but very obviously a cool place to be. We spent $30 each on dumplings and $40 each on booze!

Happy D's Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Snag Stand, Westfield, CBD

I’m trying to eat less meat these days. It’s good to do so for the environment and for my health. But sausages are a weakness. I’ve wanted to try the Snag Stand many a time, but flashier fare has called in the Food Court of the Westfield CBD. But this was a perfect occasion to grab something quick and try it out (and this Food Court is turning into my go-to place to grab lunch after mid-morning meetings in the CBD, dentists appointments or Nespresso stock-ups).

Offering a wide range of different types of gourmet sausages, I opted for the ‘Toulouse’, a grilled pork, wine and garlic sausage, with sauteed onions and rosemary mushrooms and truffle aioli on a toasted brioche roll ($10.90).

Honestly, it was perfect. Savoury. Tasty. The right combos of texture. The aioli was delicious. Grilled and assembled on the spot, while I waited, freshly made.

Snag Stand Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Grand Duk, CBD

Does this look like a restaurant to you? I think that’s definitely part of the charm of this breakfast and lunch eatery in the CBD right in the middle of Grosvernor Place across George Street from the cool new Ernst & Young building. It’s a very urban location with tables underneath glass parasols.

The menu seems to have changed from what’s up on Zomato at the moment: simpler and less Vietnamese inspired dishes. This left my vegetarian dining companion with only one option, a pea burger ($15.50), which was sort of a pea omelette. She thought she’d asked for steamed vegetables and got a rather large serving of luscious-looking roast vegetables. I was concerned for her but she said it was tasty.

As for me, I had a roast duck burger ($17.50). I mean how could you go wrong with that: Chinese lacquered roast duck as the meat, and a pretty much perfect combo of coleslaw and soft bun and dressing? I opted for the duck fat potatoes rather than regular (two bucks extra) and they were crispy as anything. I forgot to take photos of the food. Tsk. All fine.

Grand Duk Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Book Review: Viet Thanh Nguyen’s The Sympathizer

The SympathizerThe Sympathizer by Viet Thanh Nguyen
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

I told two friends that I was reading a book about a Vietnamese spy living in America after the Vietnamese war and that it was really funny, and they replied in the same way, ‘That doesn’t sound funny’. And indeed, the central drive of the book, the questions and most of the scenes that make up the narrative are very dark indeed.

But the protagonist IS very funny, in a dark way, with such wit and incisive, cutting observations. It’s a complex reaction: laughter and horror all at once that reflects the constant double vision of the book: a mixed-race hero, reconciling and unreconciled to his Western and Eastern race and culture and location, a spy for the North, infiltrating the South Vietnamese military refugees, who have emigrated from Vietnam, and immigrated to the USA, communities within communities full of conflict and tension, forces that seem opposed at times, and mirrored at others.

It brings to my mind Salman Rushdie, how comic his voice while tackling big questions of history and morality, as in Midnight’s Children and the Satanic Verses. And this too, is a major work, a deep exploration of a part of history, of political and philosophical systems and regimes, and I found it thrillingly engaging.

I found myself making book ears on pages that struck me. The first one simply signalled how beautiful I think Nguyen’s prose is: at the sad burial of the wife and child of the protaganist’s friend, ‘I tried believing that those two bodies were not truly dead but simply rags, shed by emigrants journeying to a land beyond human cartography.’

I know that not all the reviewers here were engaged by the book, but if you’re Asian growing up in North America, there will be parts that make you laugh out loud, the Chair of the department who had ‘hung an elaborate Oriental rug on his wall, in lieu, I suppose, of an actual Oriental’. His description of an immigrant life is as spot-on as I’ve read: ‘we did not simply life in two cultures’ but lived displaced, in ‘two time zones, the here and the there, the present and the past… reluctant time travelers… going in circles’.

I won’t spoil the section by quoting it extensively but where the expert in Vietnamese history and Asian culture, Dr. Hedd, lectures the Vietnamese General and protagonist on the American concept of happiness, and colonial history, and Vietnam, there is a page that sums up so well the improved vision of minorities and outsiders: the General knew ‘as a nonwhite person… he must be patient with white people, who were easily scared by the nonwhite… We were the greatest anthropogists ever of the American people… and we certainly knew white people better than they ever knew us.’ Their relatives read their ‘field notes’ with ‘hilarity, confusion, and awe’.

But of course, the book is much more than that, a page-turner with something profound to say about politics and ideology and the human condition, and incredible social commentary and social history. It really is one of the best books that I’ve read in recent years. Amazing.

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