Coffee in Sydney: Will & Co, CBD

Merivale, as far as I can see, always has its finger on the pulse. I totally buy into however they’ve fitted out a place as it somehow feels both cool and exciting to be there. Stumbling upon their new collaboration with Sydney coffee roasters Will & Co (who, as of March, had a pop-up location in Bondi on Saturdays only), I could barely figure out the name of the place, but I loved the signage. I mean: obviously, you know what you’re getting.

The cashier told me that they’d been open a few months and even with the construction of light rail on George Street just outside their doorstep, as it was part of the Merivale empire, people from all the other stores and shops in the area came by for their coffee, so business was just fine already.

The coffee was superb, as I’d guessed it would be; my latte tasted rich and creamy without being too milky; well-integrated, a nice hit of caffeine. Yum.

Will & Co on George Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: The Burman Kitchen

Each review that I saw of the Burman Kitchen made me even more curious to try it, but I couldn’t make it to join friends when they went to dine there in Granville and hadn’t managed to organise to get there otherwise… and then suddenly, they’ve moved into my neighbourhood, taking over from a Nepalese restaurant that I never managed to try!

The front door is completely glass, and it was nice to see that lots of people were curious about the place. Comically, everyone trying to get into the restaurant (myself included) heads to the ‘come in, we’re open’ sign’, but you get in by sliding the door at the other side of the entrance! Hmm, maybe they should fix that.

We were a table of seven and so we ordered a small ‘zakor htamin’, a platter of various foods that in Granville, you had to specially order. Then, we ordered a plate of mixed meat skewers.

What I found great, nay, thrilling, was that I couldn’t quite recognise the flavours. Sure, it tasted Asian, of some sort. There was a hit of spice, particularly in one of the salads. The flavour was often of a grill; there was often a nice crunch in the textures. But it didn’t really taste like Thai food, or Vietnamese food, or Indian food, or Chinese food. It’s something else. I loved everything on the plate!

One of our party thought that the meat skewers were nothing special, but I appreciated the chargrill flavour, and hey, goat is always going to be a little dry. I am definitely coming back here to try more dishes!

The Burman Kitchen Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Delfino Aperitivo #45 with Hiroyuki Sato at the Dolphin Hotel, Surry Hills

Masterful sushi

Having lived in and around Surry Hills for most of my time in Sydney (since 1999), the Dolphin Hotel is a local. While the latest incarnation is a bit hectic for me to have a quiet drink, I think they’ve done a stylish job on it. They serve great cocktails (with variations of spritzes and negronis, which I like) and have a friendly, young and energetic staff (many who seem to have French accents).

Their wine bar has gotten some pretty great reviews and on Sundays, they host guest chefs and wineries. This one caused a lot of excitement.

As described on the Facebook page: ‘Internationally acclaimed Chef Hiroyuki Sato of はっこく Hakkoku restaurant, Tokyo joins us for a once in a lifetime Aperitivo.

A veal bun

Having opened his new restaurant in February in the sushi Mecca of Ginza, Hakkoku, like its predecessor has seen a meteoric rise amongst the famously tough Japanese food public and media with his aim to push sushi to the next level. Closing his previous restaurant, Sushi Tokami towards the end of 2017, a mere five years after opening its doors, the legendary basement level Sushiya earnt three Michelin stars in its short five years, and equally for Sato – much praise for pushing the standard sushi envelope both domestically and abroad.

The restaurant’s name, Hakkoku, is a play on the words ‘black’ and ‘white’, a reminder of how all contrasting forces exist to complement one another. Whether it be sushi and rice or customer and chef, the opposite relationships create harmony, balance and unity.

We’re VERY lucky to have Hiroyuki gracing our Wine Room kitchen for 2 full hours of powerful Ōsentikku Japanese cuisine. Come taste what makes his sushi techniques differ from the rest. This is not to be missed!’

I wasn’t sure what to expect nor how to get in! I stopped by mid-jog at about 2:30pm and asked about it; a lovely staff member advised me to get there by 4pm. But when I arrived at 4pm, they were taking names on a waiting list. Apparently, people had been arriving since noon and hanging out at the bar! I was very lucky to be a solo diner, so could sit at the bar, and the hostess fit me in, not long after 5pm with the request that I only be there for an hour.

Basically, what was on offer as specialties were three dishes: the sushi was made my chef Hiroyuki, while the Dolphin offered two other dishes; there was a selection of sake to choose from and… I assume Kirin beer, as they were the sponsors.

Hypnotised by the idea of sushi that earned three Michelin stars, and not wanting to wasted a single bit (and at $7 a piece, none of it should have been wasted), I savoured it. I closed my eyes and tried to experience it fully. Encouraged to eat with our hands, I started with the kingfish (deciding to go from lightest to heaviest). The fish tasted as fresh as can be with a whisper of wasabi. I thought that the rice was brown instead of white, but by the last piece had figured out that it had been doused in soy sauce, and was a bit firmer than I’m used to. It surprised me. The salmon had a slippery texture (in a good way) like cooked egg white; the tuna had the most texture and heft. I loved the dish.

The best sushi in Sydney (well today I bet it was).

And yet, the dishes from the Dolphin’s chefs were also impressive. Wagyu tartare with a thin slice of toast; what a good contrast to my last experience of tartare at a Michelin-starred restaurant where the meat was chunky and the flavour odd. These rich little pieces of raw protein slid down the throat not unlike a meat candy with a decadent sort of mayonnaise.

Finally, a perfect rendition of a steamed bun with some fiery chili sauce, and inside, tender falling apart veal.

I started with the ‘mystery sake’, only $5 a glass, a steal. It was quite strange, a fair bit of body, and a savoury tone. I liked it though. The second glass of sake, at $10, was from Osaka. It had a much cleaner flavour, while still dry and savoury, it reminded me a little of vodka at first and then I thought not at all: there were so many flavours: caramel, toffee, shitake mushroom. Very nice and terrific with the food.


I’m certainly sold on the idea (and it was a really fun vibe). I’ll know next time to drop by earlier in the day and put my name on the waiting list… and should be able to be more organised and bring some friends too. It was rather Sydney to lay down $50 for some snacks and drinks (for one person) and still be hungry enough to fix myself an omelette when I got home but those are the perils of fine dining!

The Dolphin Hotel Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Coffee in Sydney: The Lab Cafe, Oxford Street

So, I noticed that the Barista’s name tag was Italian and then I heard that he had an Italian accent and was chatting in Italian with a customer, so I said, having just gotten back from Italy, ‘The coffee’s different here, isn’t it?’ And as he made me a perfect latte, he said that yes, he didn’t know why it’s so good in Australia, the way they make it. At home, he’d just have an espresso or an espresso macchiato (stained with a little milk) and I felt some smugness that the latter had also been my choice while travelling (like when you get approval from a local about the way you’re doing something). The Italian version of latte has too much milk, and it’s not heated in a way that integrates with the espresso, nor do they care how they pour it, the milk is just dumped in.

In any case, the Lab Cafe, on Oxford Street, at the Hyde Park end, is a place that you can spot from a block away and say, that looks like it has good coffee (compared to the other small cheap cafes, or the Gloria Jeans up the way). It always has a nice little line-up outside. I had a sweet treat, too, with my coffee, and was very pleased with it.

The Lab Cafe Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Book Review: Seth Stephens-Davidowitz’s Everybody Lies

Everybody Lies: Big Data, New Data, and What the Internet Can Tell Us About Who We Really AreEverybody Lies: Big Data, New Data, and What the Internet Can Tell Us About Who We Really Are by Seth Stephens-Davidowitz
My rating: 4 of 5 stars

I don’t think that big data in itself is fascinating, but with the right use of it, and the right questions, and smart people like Seth Stevens-Davidowitz, the results are fascinating. So, Everybody Lies is chock-full of interesting insights on human behaviour and the world we live in, and will keep you with enough anecdotes for dinner parties for the rest of your life (though I suspect big data would tell us that few people are having dinner parties anymore).

The narrative voice is familiar but engaging: it’s accessible, friendly and cajoling, your geeky friend with the latest and greatest stories. I found it a good read, except that the author kept going back, again and again, not to what I’ve said above, that the results are fascinating, but to telling us Big Data is important and useful, and I found that repeated message unnecessary and boring.

But whether about the sexual desires and quirks of women and men around the world, the way that loyalty to sporting teams or political parties may be formed, and how sadly widespread racism is in the USA, I found this book a useful and worthwhile read.

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Sydney Food Diary: Tapavino, CBD


The truth is that I’ve been trying to get to Tapavino for ages. The reviews have been great, continuously, but the last time I was in the neighbourhood, before a show, it was too crowded to get in. So, a casual business lunch on a Friday was a nice way to be introduced.

There were various elegant tapas on offer: My favourite would be the dish pictured above, the fried zucchini flower with goat’s cheese and romanesco ($7 for a single serving). A very nice match of flavours and textures. The beetroot hummous was also delicious ($14), but I thought that the watermelon and ricotta salad ($14) was lacking in both watermelon and ricotta, though was tasty enough.

So, tasty and elegant and a nice atmosphere. I think it would be a fun place to come with a group of friends and order as many different tapas (and types of wine!) as you can and share them all around.

Tapavino Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Book Review: John Irving’s In One Person

In One PersonIn One Person by John Irving
My rating: 4 of 5 stars

I was eleven years old when the World According to Garp was published, and I don’t know how much longer after it was published that I read it. I believe it was one of my first ‘adult’ novels. And adult it was. I remember that in addition to it being a terrific story that it was filled with sex and desire. I’m not sure if I saw the movie of Hotel New Hampshire before I read the book. I remember that the very sexy siblings, played by Rob Lowe and Jodie Foster, were constantly having sex (scandalous!). My young attraction to Rob Lowe, shirtless, made me feel, as reading Irving’s books did, excited and sticky.

I had this one written down on my books to read for the longest time. I suspect the reason why was the review in the NYT by Jeanette Winterston, a writer I’ve admired, but by the time I got to the book, I had no idea what it was about.

And because much of the book is about defying easy categorisations, it would be unfair to describe the narrator, William, in shorthand, as a bisexual writer and one of the great loves of his life, a transsexual librarian. He is obviously much more than that, including being a terrific and engaging storyteller.

What I noticed from this Irving novel was the way that he would jump forward and backwards in time, often. It’s almost a sleight of hand, in a way saying that you won’t be surprised because you know where the story is going… until the surprises are revealed. I was reminded that Irving returns to the same themes (an all-boys private school, wrestling, incest, sexual desire and identity, flawed romantic relationships, time abroad in Austria) but I really didn’t mind.

I think what surprised me the most was the focused exploration of desire and sexual identity. How specific our desires often can be; whether sexually or just who we want to be in the world. While incorrect to draw a direct relationship between Irving and his narrator, or to guess how much is ‘true’, the story of what it is like to be bisexual, and also transgender, and gay seems true, both deeply felt and experienced. It made me think of the long-running debate about authenticity and who can tell whose story; as a gay writer, I was impressed by what Irving achieved in this book.

And tracing a narrator from thirteen years old to sixty-five, it’s also a social history. The story felt for the first half of the novel somewhat insular, and like the narrator, uninvolved in politics and community, but suddenly the reader is in the middle of the AIDS crisis, and later, within the latest contours of LGBT community life.

There’s also an interesting narrative drive of how much characters reveal to each other, of themselves, their secrets and histories. I was taken aback by how much William shares with his friends and mentors, but then he is a writer and prone to saying too much, and this is contrasted by the silences and lack of speech of others.

I felt at times that it was a bit of overkill that so many of the novel’s characters turn out to be gay or transgender, or even have a thing for drag (the distinction between transsexuals and gay men who do drag is not as clearly made as some of the other distinctions) – and that there was an undercurrent that gay and trans stuff runs in a family (which it sometimes does, I think, but I don’t know how universal it is).

The long ending, a series of epilogues, I found immensely touching, though a bit like a Shakespearean tragedy (putting on plays, and the content of the plays, is another running theme) as William describes how nearly everyone from the first part of the book dies! With so many poignant moments, I have to say that I didn’t resonate with the scene he chose to end with. I found it a tad preachy yet I also sort of wanted the conversation to be more developed, and less truncated.

Occasionally, I was jarred out of the story by the writer’s artifice, an overly dramatic or comic punch perhaps. Yet this also felt like a theme of the book: People putting on plays, interpreting plays and acting, and writing stories that may or may not be true. The message felt pretty clear though: they (and Irving) and can do whatever they want really. It’s a writer’s prerogative and perhaps we are all writers, writing our lives. Moreso though, Irving seems to be saying: make a point. The point of ‘In One Person’ – broadly didactic in a way that I was charmed by rather than feeling lectured to – is the wonderful mystery and diversity of human sexuality.

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(*Addendum: I checked out the other book reviews on GoodReads and… the verdict isn’t good, including in reviews by my friends. I do see their points, and would agree with them, but for some reason, I enjoyed the narrator’s voice so much, I was willing to ‘go with it’, even though the story became unrealistic or unbelievable (but aren’t most of his books pretty fantastical?))

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Coffee in Sydney: Skully on Crown, Surry Hills

There’s a little cluster of restaurants on Crown Street with some cool stores in the mix too (the fabulous Mud ceramics has opened a Surry Hills outpost here). Skully on Crown is very new, with a big hipster sign, and comfy looking wooden seats. I think it would be hard to compete with Four Ate Five who have been so consistent for so many years, the Organic cafe (O Cafe) which obviously has its fans, and Mad Spuds, which, while I’m not a fan of their marketing and cartoon potato, obviously know how to create a local clientele (including through serving very good food: I had a great lunch here).

Skully looks like it has a Middle Eastern menu, with a varied and inviting looking lunch menu, with Surry Hills prices, a bit pricy, but within the bounds of reason (for the neighbourhood). I’ll report more if I lunch there, but this time, it was just for a casual coffee (and to scope out the place and because Gnome has become Brewtown Coffee Roasters and while their seats, in the sunshine, looked much more inviting, they said they were closed at 3pm, even though the sign on their door clearly says 4pm).

It’s always sad in a town that has such good coffee to not get latte art. I’m addicted. Sue me. But the taste was fine. My friend had tea, which is hard to f*** up.

Skully on crown Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Italy Food Diary: Il Flauto di Pan, Ravello

Our dinner at Il Flauto di Pan in Ravello reminded me strangely of our dinner at Le Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower in Paris. The view and surroundings are so beautiful. It’s not that the food becomes irrelevant but the beauty of the place is what I remember.

We didn’t expect to eat at another Michelin-starred restaurant on our trip through southern Italy, but my husband decided it would be a good pre-birthday treat, and also a way to make up for the fact that while our B&B had a spectacular view, but the 260 steep stairs down to it and up to the road (and at least the same amount of stairs to get to the town) were unexpected and arduous.

We only managed to have a short time to tour the grounds of the magnificent Villa Cimbrone before dinner, so if you go, my recommendation is to give yourself more time. It’s amazing. Apparently, there are different seating areas, and that night, we were outside in an area with arches and a view. Absolutely stunning (you can see the dome shaped arches where we were in this photo).

We loved that when you are seated, you are asked to put your watches into this chest, so that you lose track of time. A nice idea that doesn’t really work in this age of smartphones. I kept mine out to take photos (though as you can see, the lighting was not good).

The meal itself was good, perhaps very good, but didn’t quite match the setting. We’ve had the privilege to eat at a few Michelin restaurants: the three-star ones are still etched in my  mind as flawless. Once or twice at the one-star ones, like this one, I remember a few issues, and I suppose I was surprised by them.

I really didn’t like their version of tartare: the meat wasn’t ground but was in chunks, little raw chunks of meat, with a strange savoury meringue. One of husband’s pasta courses had a great filling, but weirdly, the casing had a weird texture to it, a bit crude, and not quite right.

And yet, the appetizers (above) were beautiful and engaging, and my god, check out the plating on this dessert (below). We particularly liked the elegant risottos, which are sure not like the sloppy but tasty risotto that I make at home.

I also loved that we could choose from different tasting menus: I did gluten-free because it looked so interesting, not because I was avoiding gluten! And then we could share more plates. I can’t find the menus online to jog my memory of what we had, though it seems that the chef does change the menu regularly.

The service was wonderful and we felt indeed that we were treated to a special night! And, since it was my birthday, at the end, they presented me with a delicious chocolate cake which we had to take back to the B&B (and indeed on our car trip the next day) because we had no space in our bellies for anything more.

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Sydney Food Diary: Sabbaba, Bondi Beach

I remember going to this, the original Sabbaba, over ten years ago. It seemed to me that they’d expanded broadly over the years, but it turns out that they expanded only to places where I go (the Westfield CBD food court, the Bondi Junction Westfield food court, and Newtown). And now Newtown is closed.

What I was always impressed with was that I knew I could get a delicious falafel pita sandwich, with a great combo of fillings, and an interesting set of choices too, with various themes of flavours.

On a very frosty Friday night, the three of us stopped here. To be honest, I was a little disappointed in my plate for $17 with lamb kofte. There were two pieces of kofte, and they were delicious, and the pickles, dips and tabouleh salad were all tasty. It just felt a little bit too small.

Sabbaba Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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