Sydney Food Diary: Golden Lotus Vegan, Newtown

Is it bad, when judging a vegan restaurant, to start the review with saying how impressed I was that their beef rendang really did taste like meaty deliciousness? But really, it was awesome. My dinner at Golden Lotus Vegan, as suggested by my vegetarian pal, David, also supplied the biggest laugh of the day for me, as when we were waiting to be seated, a woman had gotten up from the back of the restaurant, where she was sitting (and it was so busy she would have had to have waited or made a reservation) and asked the waitress (before leaving): DON’T YOU HAVE ANYTHING WITH MEAT IN IT?

LMAO.

So, as I said, this place is bustling! They seem to have taken over two old Thai restaurants and have enough clients to be busy on both sides. It’s great to see. I think we should all eat a little less meat these days, for the planet’s sake. And it didn’t mean sacrificing any taste. We had a crispy skin duck pancake (vegan of course), and the mock duck really did taste like a charred or crispy piece of duck. What I always want to know is which poor Buddhist monk did they force to eat meat in order to come up with the vegan alternative?

No matter. It was delicious. The rendang was my favourite, I suspect made of jackfruit: the flavours were rich and complex and salty. It went perfectly well with the rice pot, which had rice vermicelli noodles and strips of fungus and vegetables. It could have been a very plain dish, but it wasn’t. A great combo of textures and flavour.

We washed it all down with homemade non-alcoholic drinks ($6 a piece, I think they were). I did think the prices were a little high for casual Asian food, but I shouldn’t mind for food this good.

Golden Lotus Vegan Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: KOI Dessert Bar, Chippendale

So, way back when Reynold Poernomo competed on Masterchef in 2015, we paid attention, for obvious reasons, if you saw the show. So, it’s great to see what a success he’s made for himself.

Although we have been known to treat ourselves to a dessert here after a movie at Central Park, or if we’re dining elsewhere on Spice Alley, I also especially like to take overseas visitors here, because really, these perfect pastry creations are visually beautiful, creative and most importantly: super delicious.

They often glisten or sparkle with gold dust, and sometimes have Asian flavours of matcha, yuzu, pandan or more. I always meant to try the place out for dinner as well, but we just end up going for dessert.

If you haven’t been: treat yourself. And your favourite peeps.

KOI Dessert Bar Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Tokki, Surry Hills

Described as a Korean, Japanese, Asian Fusion restaurant, just opened on Foveaux Street in Surry Hills, I thought: what’s not to love about that? I’ve really developed a passion for modern Korean food lately from some excellent eateries in Sydney (mostly in Surry Hills) and have always been a fan of Japanese food and Asian fusion. How exciting.

I can’t quite remember what would have been there before Tokki: an office building? It’s just renovated and has a lightness about the colour scheme, wood furniture and lighting which makes it feel amiable. We opted for the smaller of the ‘Tokki feeds you’ options, one at $65 and one at $85, though we did sneak in some extra kim chi and edamame to start.

The menu said it was assorted kim chi but it mostly tasted of the cabbage rather than the daikon. It had a rich, fermented flavour: husband said it was almost sparkling, and it was delicious, especially matched with some of the later dishes. We also had edamame which were salted with truffle flavour; tasty as usual though it was a type of bean that had a weird waxy sort of shard in the middle, that was easy enough though to remove from one’s mouth.

Ah, and I also snuck in a cocktail to start, a ‘Cactus Jack’ with Mezcal, lime, pineapple, ginger, agave and basil: it was lovely.

The first course was kombu salmon. Generous pieces of salmon sashimi swimming in a sauce of mandarin oranges, with kombu seaweed on the side. A really interesting flavour combo, which we both thought worked. The salmon was glistening.

The bao, made famous in this style by David Chang at Momofuku, I believe, come in three varieties. We got ours with Korean Fried Chicken and oh my god, it was perfect. So crisp and tender. At other tables, we saw the full serving of KFC and it looked enormous. Like you wouldn’t be able to eat anything else but the chicken! So we were glad to try the KFC in this way.

The next dish was called ‘Menbosha’ with DIY prawns yuzu siracha mayo and brioche, but to me it was basically a version of the Cantonese prawn toast that you get at yum cha, small crisp deep-fried toast, with shrimp on top, except these had a luscious sauce on them and also came with some nice guacamole.

We were surprised that the next dish was a platter of BBQ with sauces. Really, really tasty, and not a surprise once we found out that the chefs are two Korean brothers who have been serving up Korean BBQ mainly in the last years: this, I think, is their foray into contemporary Asian-Australian fusion. The meat was rich, heavy and delicious.

So, the next dish surprised us, pork belly with some deep-fried gyoza skins and a rather luscious peach pickle mixture. It was tasty (I mean, pork belly: of course) but after the meat tray was too much. We would have preferred a seafood dish or salad.

Our final course, the dessert, was also a surprise: a delicate tart filled with red bean paste and jam and whipped cream. Husband has never liked the very Asian taste and texture of the red bean paste. I thought it was fine.

So, a really beautiful meal, and an exciting one. The service was very quick, so I’m thinking it’s a more of a casual and fun night out, though the quality of food means you could treat yourself to a fine dining experience here. We’ll definitely be back.

Tokki Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

We dined as guest of Tokki (somewhat unexpectedly, I wasn’t sure how it would work on this night for media and food bloggers). While being treated made me want to post my review more quickly and more widely, it didn’t change my opinion of the food and drinks.

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Coffee in Sydney: Pelican Hills, Surry Hills

So, the Alta Building on Goulburn Street at Riley Street was finished at the end of 2011. Which means I’ve seen 7 or 8 years of restaurants and cafes come and go at the ground level. There was Pachamama House, a Peruvian-Japanese place. There was Pisco Pisco, which I assumed was a rename from the same owners. Could there have been Jazz City, a foray into American BBQ? MO Surry Hills, which was always a popular and buzzy cafe around the corner moved into this space and then disappeared not much later. My sense is that it’s one of those cursed locations. Possibly the strange shape of it makes it hard to run. Certainly the large outdoor area should make it inviting, but no one’s ever managed to do it. I feel sad for anyone there.

Out of sympathy, when my pal Davy suggested meeting there, I thought we should give Pelican Hills a go. And truthfully, I heard they had a really rough start. One friend went, intending to go for lunch, and the chef hadn’t turned up so they weren’t serving food. I heard something else negative, though I don’t remember the details. Also, I have cognitive dissonance with an image of a flamingo above the word “pelican”.

So, I was happy to find, for our mid-morning coffee, that the Pelican Hills served up coffee quickly with nice latte art. My large latte was delicious and Davy’s Golden Turmeric Latte was tasty and different. The service was very friendly and they asked me when I paid how everything was. ‘Great,’ I said, and I meant it. So good I’ll be back to try food sometime too.

The Pelican Hills Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Book Review: Jonathan Franzen’s Purity

PurityPurity by Jonathan Franzen
My rating: 3 of 5 stars

For some reason, my review of Jonathan Franzen’s Strong Motion remains one of the most-viewed posts on my blog. I wonder why that is. Probably because there aren’t that many other online reviews, but I’m not sure. No one has ever commented on it, just viewed it.

I was introduced to Franzen through The Corrections, one of those literary moments talked about, so widespread that you could converse about it with people you just met, and with a quality where readers had a personal reaction or connection with the book that drove the conversation. I loved it myself, finding the characters unforgettable and relatable. No matter the crazy circumstances they were in, I recognised myself, my family and friends in this family.

From there, I’ve read most of the rest of Franzen’s oeuvre. I thought the early novels were enjoyable; found the collection of essays interesting, mostly for the insight into Franzen’s character; and I seemed to like Freedom a lot more than my friends did, though I didn’t like it as much as The Corrections. Hopes were high then for Purity; and the reviews that I came across were very positive. Strangely, I wrote up this short review at the start of January 2016 and never posted it. Why? Shyness? Self-doubt. I’m not sure, but will finally clear it from my draft emails, where I have been storing it.

The verdict? I didn’t get around to doing a review immediately, which allowed for more retrospection, though perhaps less recall of detail. That’s actually one aspect of the book I wanted to comment on. Franzen’s storytelling really is unusual for me: he delves into his long stories and histories of his characters as if in one monumental exhalation, without breaks between paragraphs or sections. It can be quite dizzying how, in this style of narration, time is compressed and condensed; there’s no need for particular order or pauses, because it is as if a guy at a bar is simply recounting one long story, and it does make sense, and is complete.

At the same time, I worry for what Facebook and other social media has done to my brain. I found it hard to digest such large pieces of text. I actually needed to take breaks and space out my reading, but then I seemed to lose track of some of details, which Franzen would come back to, thematically, leaving me to flip through previous parts of the book to try to find out whether there was something really important I’d missed (there wasn’t generally).

The other thing is that I didn’t connect with the characters as much as others of his. This does make the pay-off greater, when a particularly self-absorbed and aimless character shows such growth by the end of the book. But I felt some dissatisfaction. While critics rail against the primacy of ‘relatability’ for how we enjoy art, I did want to like the characters just a bit more.

What Franzen has always excelled at though is the zeitgeist, and capturing the spirit of the times (or at least, America, and how that influence pervades the world) and the novel’s primary themes – surveillance, security and exposure – as mainly embodied by the Julian Assange-type character, felt right for 2015 (and now 2016). I also was impressed how he created this character while name-dropping his influences: Assange, Snowden and even Chelsea Manning and putting his protagonist, Pip, in the context of them. Franzen’s intellect and inspiration really does feel, at times, boundless, making it a pleasure to spend time in his company through his books.

A final note: there did seem to be a particular point of view coming across, a working through of the theme and question of how ageing heterosexual men have sex and court women at a time when women are expressive of their needs and demanding of more social power. Even though some of these characters were meant to be icky or corrupt, I kind of was left with more of an ick factor than insight, though of course, I, as a gay man, wouldn’t be his target audience with whom he can explore this issue. It felt to me that Purity wasn’t as popular as some of his other novels. Was this true? If so, could it have been that at this time, the world doesn’t really need to read about the sexual anxieties of ageing heterosexual white men?

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Sydney Food Diary: Tuyo, Potts Point

My friend Freddy was excited to bring me to this cafe, very close to where they live in Potts Point, which they have discovered and really enjoyed. And true: it’s hard to go wrong with good food and good service.

Also, it’s quite charming to be able to sit and watch the world go by, as we did. I’m trying to eat better after overstuffing myself on holidays in Italy, so had a perfect Acai breakfast bowl. How pretty.

Freddy had a yummy mix of eggs and beans and mushrooms and sauce, though he said the haloumi stack and the mushrooms lovers’ breakfast were also good options. My coffee was delicious.

I’m charmed to discover that rather than tuyo being the Spanish word for ‘yours’, it is in fact a combination of the two owners, Tu and Yo. I’ll be back to try more of the menu

Tuyo Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Book Review: Taffy Brodesser-Akner’s Fleishman Is in Trouble

Fleishman Is in TroubleFleishman Is in Trouble by Taffy Brodesser-Akner
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

Aware that Taffy Brodesser-Akner’s interviews with the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow and Jonathan Franzen are so incisive, well-written and engaging that they’ve become famous in themselves, and seeing the New York Times mention this as a notable upcoming book and then reading a mention of her upcoming novel in one of her own articles, about Thirtysomething, I was intrigued enough to buy Fleishman Is in Trouble.

And I’m glad. I found, from the start, the narrative was completely engaging and compelling with truths and observations about contemporary life that feel very now, whether it’s internet dating, relationships, raising kids or the nostalgia of the middle-aged (of which I am one). This is in spite of the fact that the premise of the story – a divorcing nephrologist, newly discovering dating apps, and suddenly left with full custody of his kids when his ex-wife disappears – didn’t necessarily seem like something I’d be interested in.

So, I was loving it for the observations and the truths and then, more than halfway in, something very interesting happens with the narration, a meta-intrusion, unabashedly autobiographical, that for me made the book even more interesting and more punchy. I had been wondering why such a talented writer would have, in her first novel, a male hero, and the narrator basically says why in a way that brings really interesting issues to the forefront about gender and power and voice and more, and the narrative barrels towards an open and satisfying ending and I was left impressed, pleased, engaged.

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Sydney Food Diary: Bayswater Kitchenette, Kings Cross

It was good preparation to go to Bayswater Kitchenette before my vacation in Italy. The team (Broadsheet tells me it’s Glenda Lau, Alessia Bottini and Robert Patterson-Hyde) is serving up deceptively simple homestyle Italian food.

The flavours are rich, savoury and balanced, and it appears simple but I imagine it would take me a loooooong time if I were to recreate one of these dishes and to do it so well.

Case in point: salt and pepper squid. Perfectly done. Not something that I’ve attempted at home.

The eggplant parmigiana was pretty much perfect too (photo at the top).

I would attempt making this simple, lemony broccoli salad. and I also liked the simplicity and perfect balance of the pasta sheets (also with broccoli).

There weren’t many tables so we felt pretty lucky to have snuck in here for our first visit. Highly recommended. I’m just jealous of those who can call it their local Italian.

Bayswater Kitchenette Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Mr Sun’s Fried Bun, Waterloo

 

In Waterloo, there’s an entire little neighbourhood springing up of Asian restaurants, and not the typical Asian restaurants in most parts of Sydney. They seem to be regional Chinese restaurants, and some others, aimed mainly at students and other nearby residents: modest and tasty food.

We were pretty impressed by Mr. Sun’s Fried Bun. The titular specialty is awfully good, though quite difficult to eat. You have to make sure you don’t spill the soup on yourself, and then there’s the nice, crispy and crunchy filling, but was somehow thick enough that it was … awkward. I’ve had these before and love them, but say if you’re at New Shanghai (one of the best), they serve you a whole plate of them, and it’s way too much for one, even two people to eat. These portions are much more manageable.

We also had another kind of dumpling, perfectly nice, and some mince meat on rice. We basically split two meals so we could try more things. Yummy, tasty, inexpensive and unusual.

Mr Sun's Fried Bun Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Book review: David Foenkinos’s Delicacy

DelicacyDelicacy by David Foenkinos
My rating: 1 of 5 stars

I should have guessed from the cover. ‘Like an Amélie for grown-ups’, said the blurb. But I thought that Amélie was for grown-ups. So, I could gather from the back of the book that it meant Amelie, but a little sadder, as the author has made Nahalie, the lead character, a widow, having lost her husband in an accident. And then, with a reference to Amélie partway through the book, it was clear that the author was hoping to write another version of Amélie. And from a quick internet search, I see that perhaps the author intended that the book be made into a film, like Amélie, and it was (though it got poor reviews).

So, while it’s true I was just looking for a light holiday read, I will end up writing a negative book review instead. Often, I don’t like to trash books, to each his own, etc. But I think having sold thousands of copies of Delicacy and having made a nice profit from selling the movie rights, the author won’t be paying attention. The book was apparently nominated for all the major French literary prizes. I’m dumbfounded by this.

It’s interesting that I read this just after Alain Duceaux’s The Lovers, another book about a romantic relationship, written in short, allusive pieces of narrative. In my review, I said that in a book as short as this, any mistake risks losing readers. And I see by the reviews on Goodreads that he did lose many readers. For me, I was willing to go along with the conceit of the novel, perhaps charmed by the fact that the lovers are men, and that I liked his language and descriptions.

With Delicacy, Foenkinos loses me immediately. Techniques such as using asterisks, writing lists, and alluding to popular culture or other works of art have been used by others, in a more in-depth and clever way. The cute philosophising, that, for example, many Natalies act in a similar way, making our heroine unusual, is cloying. Only a tenth of the way through the book, the same paragraph includes ‘Years went by in this way’ and ‘Time went by with such fluency’, so as to speedily kill off Natalie’s husband, leaving her free for the main romance of the book. The language is leaden. About the hero of the book, Markus: ‘He wanted to take a voyage in her hair. It was his sensitivity, his care not to rush the situation that made Natalie feel good. Even so, he was proactive.’ What? Is it a problem of translation? Does it sound better in French? Am I truly at odds with French culture?

Only in the last days, a high school friend lost her husband of nearly 25 years, suddenly to cancer. She is in the midst of unimaginable grief. So, I actually found this fable, this idea of a widow learning to love again, offensive in how breezy it all is. It reminded me of a string of American flims, which infuriated me, that always had kids who were orphaned, and had to live with a new stepmother or stepfather or the best friend of their mother, and instead of being affected by the terrible grief of losing a parent, they are simply out of sorts and resentful until the end of the movie, by which time they are won over.

In the meantime, what really offends me are the gender relations. While the book was written a decade ago in France, and I know the French have always been a bit more lenient of extra-marital affairs and traditional gender roles, the minor plot point, that Nathalie’s boss, married, decides he is in love with her and sexually harasses her, is hard to read. The major plot point, that a beautiful woman can fall in love with an unattractive but unusual, witty man, is perhaps the author’s wish fulfilment, but reminds me of the Hollywood stereotypes, a man of any shape or size and any age can attract the most gorgeous of women because … those are the rules of the game. It’s distasteful. Natalie is described mostly in physical terms. While there is a playful challenge to the idea that an oafish man can attract a beautiful woman (their colleagues question this), the main theme seems to be that love is blind. Except that it isn’t. As Natalie is beautiful and Markus isn’t. Which continue to be pointed out.

While for most of the book, I was finding it fairly awful but readable, this changed in the last third of the book, where I had to force myself to get to the end … for it really is unfair to review a book that you haven’t read to the end. As the uncomplicated plot plays itself out, Foenkinos pulls out a final spoonful of treacle, wrapping the inescapable conclusion of the book in more sweetness by ending the book with Natalie revisiting her childhood while visiting her grandmother. Agh. I found this a terrible, terrible book.

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