Food Diary: Battle of the Taiwanese Fried Chicken, Sydney CBD, Part 1

IMG_3925Taiwanese Fried Chicken has come to Sydney! I’m not sure I even knew it existed, except that suddenly there appeared an intriguing shopfront on Liverpool Street, heading into the City that often had a line-up. I decided I had to try it. At $8.50, I thought it might be a small, manageable piece of chicken. My better half ordered the original, and I opted for the spicy version.  IMG_3924 What it is, apparently, is a large flattened chicken breast. It still has some bones in it (so you can tell it’s real chicken, maybe) and is crumbed and then deep-fried so it’s super-crispy. I have decided for 2016 that my food rule is to never eat something larger than my face (which means that the schnitzels at Una’s are out, sorry Una). This was huge, but smaller than my face, so I think I’m OK.  IMG_3930

My chicken was soooo crispy and delicious, it felt rather sinful to eat it. I thought the spicy powder on it was a bit artificial tasting, and would advise against it, but overall, I thought this was an amazing tasty treat.

Hot Star Large Fried Chicken Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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2015 in lists (art, books, entertainment, shows)

Concerts & Shows

  • West Side Story, live symphony playing to the movie, at the Grand Rex, Paris. Pretty fun.
  • Blood Brothers, Hayes Theatre, Sydney: A great cast, acting and singing for their lives, but gosh, I didn’t love this show, as a show. It seems very old-fashioned in its structure and music, and formulaic. Perhaps it was original when it came out in the early 80s.
  • Marlon Williams, Newtown Social Club. An interesting young Kiwi who may just be famous some day.
  • Sufjan Stevens, Sydney Opera House, Carrie and Lowell tour. See the review up on this site. 
  • Dogfight, Hayes Theatre. As usual, a strong cast, and I thought that the music was interesting. But what a dog of a story. 
  • Brian Kennedy, Vanguard. Playing songs from his ‘Love Letter to Joni’ (Mitchell) album, Kennedy’s voice is as sweet and incredible as when I first saw him in 1990 when he opened for Suzanne Vega in Vancouver. 
  • Phil Scott’s Reviewing the Situation (the Lionel Bart story). Good one, Phil!
  • B-Girl (IOTA). I think Iota is amazingly talented so was confused about this show. A woman in an abusive relationship has a glam-rock god in her head who tells her story, or ultimately inspires her to leave. I think. But the songs felt trite and repetitive. Rocky Horror meets glam David Bowie, and a poor imitation of IOTA’s bravado performance in Hedwig and the Angry Itch.
  • Mitchell Butel’s Killing Time, Hayes Theatre. Part of the Cabaret Festival. I think I saw Mitchell sing a song or two at the Speigeltent one year, and happened to by this same CD. Great to see him perform the whole show live. I think he originated the show five years ago or so. It had a number of moments of what I think of as cabaret magic: an unknown song, or an interesting interpretation of a song, that pulls me to full attention, immediate admiration and a great pleasure of discovery matched with feeling happy to witness such talent: I’d say that came in his performance of ‘Leaving Again/In the Wee Small Hours of the Morning’ by Kurt Elling though I also loved his ‘The Way You Look Tonight’ and some very funny comedy numbers.
  • Bobby Fox & Michael Falzon’s Painted from Memory: Singing the full album of the Elvis Costello and Burt Bacharach collaboration: wonderful musicians, great singing and amazing (though sad) songs. A fun night and show.
  • Queenie Van Zandt and Friends, Hayes Theatre, Cabaret Season.
  • Avenue Q, Enmore Theatre: How I love this show.
  • Smash, Vanguard: A bunch of musical theatre kids singing songs from the TV show. Lots of talent and a fun night.
  • Love and Information, Sydney Theatre Company: Caryl Churchill, I was so looking forward to this. But I didn’t find the dozens of snippets engaging, intriguing or poignant enough. Good moments but not to make up a whole show (that had rave reviews elsewhere, and in Sydney)
  • Heathers, Hayes Theatre: Amazing performances, great music. This was rather a lot of fun, and I felt Trevor Ashley really had done an amazing job of direction: it felt like all of the performers were really given a chance to shine and encouraged to give their all. High energy, dark, and funny.
  • Master Class, Hayes Theatre: I was always interesting in seeing this play by Terence McNally about Maria Callas. Callas is so frightening a personality I shuddered to imagine the Broadway performances by Patty Lupone, or in the first Australian production, by Robin Nevin. Maria Mercedes in this role was amazing and also sufficiently scary and the three younger cast members and the pianist were all very impressive too.
  • Ceasefire on Drugs, Johann Hari (introduced by Naomi Klein), Festival of Dangerous Ideas, Sydney Opera House: Hari was such an amazing speaker, so lucid and engaging, I thought I’d include this talk in this list. I’m putting both Hari and Klein’s books on my reading list now.
  • The Present, Sydney Theatre Company: Andrew Upton’s adaptation of Chekhov with Cate Blanchett and Richard Roxburgh. Amazing acting but I couldn’t find much to grab onto in terms of the play itself (or the way it was adapted). Also, saw it on a Wednesday matinee with the blue-rinse set who don’t know how to turn off their mobile phones. Sigh. 
  • Anything Goes, Sydney Opera, Opera House: So, it’s clear that Caroline O’Connor has star power. She carries the show, and is a fun and charismatic performer. And I knew that the show would be old-fashioned. But god, what a dog of a story (no offense, dogs). I know they did a Broadway revival of this a few years ago: how did they make it work? Silly childish jokes, two opium-smoking Chinamen running around shrieking, and cliché on top of cliché. Yipes.
  • High Society, Hayes Theatre, Sydney: Another Cole Porter musical. But this one had a cohesive book. It was a little old-fashioned and by god, those seats are uncomfortable (particularly in the front row, at the sides, we’ve had them before) but the actors were uniformly wonderful, the band great. A good, fun show.
  • Of Thee I Sing, Sydney. A concert version of an ancient Gershwin musical, accompanied by a full choir and orchestra, and organised by 7 performers from Squabalogic, this was an odd beast. I liked some of it, but following two other old-fashioned musicals, I’m in the mood for something more modern now…
  • François Chaignaud’s Dumy Moyi, Carriageworks, Sydney. Review here.
  • Rent, Hayes Theatre, Sydney: Young, energetic, talented cast that I think captured some of the original, raw and gritty feel to the musical (as opposed to the blockbuster cultural phenomenon it became). Warning: gratuitious sign language use.
  • Velvet, Sydney Opera House, Studio. A disco circus concert. Aussie’s seem to specialise in creating this sort of circus-cabaret these last years. This was a great version. I got to see Brendan Mclean sing live, Marcia Hines was masterful, and that acrobat, Stephen Williams, was a particular favourite of our party.
  • Goodbye Girl, Neglected Musicals, Hayes Theatre. These pros put together this show in a day or two, an amazing display of talent. As for the musical itself, produced in 1993, based on a movie from the 70s, they didn’t seem to be able to update the 70s sensibility and it felt clichéd and old-fashioned.
  • Audra McDonald, with the Sydney Symphony Orchestra. Old-fashioned Broadway songs (for the most part). Amazing voice.
  • Grey Gardens, Squabbologic, Sydney: Amazing performances, consistent cast members and an interesting show. I might have been lost without having seen the movies beforehand, but very, very interesting and well done.
  • Sound of Music, Capitol Theatre, Sydney. Very well done.
  • Violet, Hayes Theatre. Great production.
  • The Daisy Theatre (Ronnie Burkett), The Cultch, Vancouver. We start the 2015 theatre-going season in Paris, and end in Vancouver. A Canadian world-famous puppeteer presented new and old material, infusing marionettes with emotion and pathos, in a bawdy, ribald and bravura show. Great to see.

Exhibitions

  • Brancusi Workshop at the Pompidou Centre
  • James Turrell at the National Art Gallery
  • Project 30 – Marina Abramovic, Sydney
  • Sydney Contemporary – the best in contemporary art from galleries from all over Australia, the region and the world. Why haven’t I been to this before? It was amazing (also saw the satellite Artist’s show at Sydney Central Park, and the rather chic satellite at the Establishment Hotel)

Books

  • The Selected Short Fiction of Lisa Moore
  • Wolf Hall by Hilary Mantel
  • Be Near Me by Andrew O’Hagan
  • Not My Father’s Son by Alan Cumming
  • Super Sad True Love Story by Gary Shteyngart (unfinished)
  • The Fictional Woman by Tara Moss
  • Notes from an Exhibition by Patrick Gale
  • The Twyborn Affair by Patrick White
  • Fun Home by Alison Bechdel (reread, since I was curious about the musical adaptation)
  • Something Fierce by Carmen Aguirre
  • Snow Queen by Michael Cunningham
  • The Golden Age by Joan London
  • A Place Called Winter by Patrick Gale
  • Outliers by Malcolm Gladwell
  • Purity by Jonathan Franzen

Movies

  • The Theory of Everything: He deserved that Oscar.
  • Boyhood: I found this such a charming film. My better half was bored though.
  • Guardians of the Galaxy
  • Into the Woods
  • The Hundred-Foot Journey
  • To Be Takei: Not as fun or snappy a film as I’d hoped, but hey, George is a hero. Great to know more about him.
  • The Imitation Game
  • Date Night
  • The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel: Of course, I’d watch these actors, but it would have been nice to have a stronger and more coherent story. And the idea that a reserved, older Indian woman from a conservative society would hop into bed with a man after the first date, whether or not he’s Richard Gere, seemed so culturally wrong.
  • Life Itself: Documentary on the late film critic, Robert Ebert. I thought this was really beautiful, and really interesting getting to know more about him.
  • Strangerland
  • Wild Tales (Spanish: Relatos salvajes)
  • Pitch Perfect 2: Although I kind of liked the Central American hardship gags, the rest was such a mish-mash that I forgot why I liked the first one so much.
  • Magic Mike XXL: OK. My excuse for watching this, aside from the man-flesh, is that the reviews were uniformly good, particularly the one in the NYT. WTF? I was so uninterested, the characters so unappealing to watch and listen to, I’m not sure how they made such an unsexy, flat film.
  • Holding the Man: My better half really liked it. I liked it. Don’t think it will really translate for an international audience, but I hope it does well here: a truly Australian story.
  • Boulevard (review here on the site) and a delightful short film, Alone with People, opening night of Queer Screen Film Festival 2015.
  • Grandma: Loved it. Having seen a handful of films which were a bit disappointing, I forgot how much fun it was to see a really solidly enjoyable crowd-pleasing film. It felt emotionally truthful, and Lily Tomlin is so great to watch.
  • Freeheld: Interesting that we’ve come so far. It felt, in some ways, that the story was constructed by Hollywood (though it was based on a true story) in that every piece was put together perfectly to elicit exactly the sadness or laughter that the filmmakers required. And yet, for the first time that I remember, the perfect cute couple were lesbians. The love that was celebrated was between women. The major plot point which divided the rest of the characters into good people and bad people was homophobia. How amazing. I hope this movie is a smash hit. 
  • Tammy: From the sublime to the ridiculous, we watched us to distract ourselves from a failed attempt at making gnocchi (way too much flour). I like Melissa McCarthy and I do find it enjoyable watching her (and so many stars in this film) though the script and storyline were dogs, no offense to dogs.
  • Me, Earl and the Dying Girl: Smart, quirky and honest.
  • Grey Gardens (documentary)
  • Grey Gardens (movie): In advance of watching the musical ‘Grey Gardens’, we watched these two films in advance. Finally, I understand the phenomenon of Big Edie and Little Edie. What staunch characters!
  • The Hunger Games: Mockingjay, Part 2.
  • Star Wars: The Force Awakens. Gosh, that was good. Captured the magic I remember of not only the first ones from when I was just a kid, but the magic of movies in general.
  • Minions. I found this laugh out loud funny for the first third or so and then for some reason became a bit bored with it. But it was really very funny for a while.

Television

The reason why the books list has gotten so short these years is that I spend my spare time watching TV. Ahem. So, a list is appropriate, I think, though possibly a sad reflection of a trade-off of literature for the easier thrills of TV, no matter how well made it is these days.

  • Downton Abbey, Series 5
  • The Good Wife, Series 6
  • Fresh off the Boat, Season 1
  • Ru Paul’s Drag Race, Series 7
  • Survivor, Series 30 (Thirty, can you believe it?)
  • House of Cards, Season 3
  • The Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt, Season 1
  • Sense8, Season 1
  • Emperor of All Maladies
  • Being Human, Season 1
  • Orphan Black, Seasons 1, 2 & 3
  • Episodes, Season 4
  • Project Runway, Season 17
  • Stephen Sondheim’s Follies in Concert
  • Limitless, Season 1
  • Survivor, Season 31 (This was a surprisingly good season, that got better and better and kept its momentum right til the end)
  • Fresh off the Boat, Season 2
  • Downton Abbey, Season 6 (And the Christmas special… Farewell Downton. Sometimes silly, sometimes slow, but fun and addictive TV)
  • The Good Wife, Series 7
  • America’s Next Top Model, Cycle 22 (Ahem)

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Travel advice: Tokyo at New Year’s 2015/16

IMG_4074Rather than just hoard these notes to myself, I might as well put them on the blog. It would have been useful for me to read something like this before this short trip… though we were so busy preparing other things that I didn’t do much (enough) preparation…

Tokyo is an interesting place to spend New Year’s. There aren’t any fireworks, nor any particular activities on New Year’s Eve itself. Many Japanese families stay home watching a famous music program! We ended up just walking around and being back at our AirBNB by midnight. I think it might have been fun to see how crowded the Meiji Shrine would be… but we weren’t brave enough this time.

IMG_4022I would also plan, on another occasion, to stay AFTER New Year’s rather than arrive a few days before. Why? Because the sales start on 2 January, and shopping in Japan is awesome!

My big recommendation for New Year’s Day is to take a short train ride out of Tokyo and climb Mount Takao. It was absolutely beautiful, with a clear view of Mount Fuji. We chose a hard trail up, without too many people, but on descent joined for a while the busiest (and easiest) pathway, which was lively with food stands, and the wonderful shrine with everyone doing their New Year’s offering. It was a great thing to do, and felt very special.

IMG_4082As a treat, we went overnight to Shima Onsen where we stayed at Kashiwaya Ryokan, a family-run ryokan with private onsens (many have public ones only) including a great one in our room! They also spoke English pretty well and had a great level of communication. I think staying in a traditional Japanese inn (with hotsprings, amazing multi-course dinners and breakfasts, and rooms with tatami mats and futons) is a must for a trip to Japan. But it can be hard to organise and communicate with the owners. Kashiwaya Ryokan did a great job of this.

IMG_4121Other tips from this trip:

  • Arriving in Japan is so simple these days, and while they ask for a full address of where you’re staying, I’m not sure they pay that much attention these days.
  • The Narita Express seems easiest and cheapest to get into town, JPY4000 return. It takes a while though; we waited an extra half an hour to get the one that goes directly to Shinjuku, and then the trip took nearly an hour.
  • If you’ve got a moment at the airport, grab a 3 day (or 1 or 2 day) Tokyo Subway ticket. JPY1500 for 3 days is ridiculously cheap. But you can only buy them at limited locations: the airports, and the BIC camera chain. We got them at a BIC store easily, though I think I would have liked to have gotten them at the airport when we came in.
  • Staying in Tokyo during the holiday season could be expensive… but we found an AirBNB, conveniently located, and adorable, at what I think would be cheaper than hotels.
  • If you find yourself awake early in the morning (flying from Canada, this worked perfectly), why not go to the Tsukiji fish market for the freshest most amazing sushi ever? We arrived on 30 December at 7am to huge lines at the most popular places (Sushi Daiwa, Sushibun etc) but found a modest place next to Sushibun, with only half an hour wait that was… amazing.

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  • On New Year’s Day, there are actually a number of stores open, though most sales start the next day.

Other than that? We had some great Japanese curry at fast food places, and also enjoyed the wrap your own sushi bought from 7-11’s (onigiri). I was happy to bring back some sake (so cheap in Japan compared to buying it in Australia!) as well as some matcha (green tea) kit kats. Enjoyed the visit to the Meiji shrine and though the trip up Skytree was worth it. Loved shopping in Shibuya. Went to two branches of my favourite store Ragtag (designer resale). A nice meal in Ebisu. Wanted a little more time, as we missed shopping in Shinjuku, wandering around the high fashion street in Aoyama, seeing the Harajuku girls, or managing to book into a really fancy restaurant, though the neighbourhood restaurant specialising in eel that our friends took us too was pretty memorable. IMG_4133

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Food Diary: Zomato Meet-Up at Cafe del Mar, Darling Harbour, Sydney

IMG_3870 The original Café del Mar opened its doors in Ibiza as a bar that played great chill-out music at sunset; it morphed into a music brand with famous chill-out music compilations that became popular in the 90s. So, it’s an interesting concept to transfer to Australia. I wonder whether it will work. Remember how popular all those Hard Rock Cafés were at one point?

IMG_3853I was happy to be invited to my second Zomato meet-up, and meet some other bloggers and instagrammers, and didn’t quite know what to expect. And it’s hard to be objective when being treated to free food and some very fine wine. But I really didn’t expect the food to be so good. I had assumed the restaurant would be all about the view and the vibe. Apparently, they get lots of folks from offices after work on weekdays, and a buzzy social Darling Harbour crowd on the weekends.

IMG_3860But from the amazing starters – sweet, fresh watermelon wrapped in Jamon Serrano with Persian feta; a soft quail egg and potato skordalia wrapped up in a thin piece of wagyu bresola; and the very rich pork jowl cigars – and onwards, the quality of the food was evident.

IMG_3864The executive chef, Ben Fitton, has a great pedigree from restaurants such as the Bennelong, Macleay Street Bistro and Sean’s Panorama. The mains were a melt-in-your-mouth lamb shoulder with a great chermoula paste; a very luxe seafood bouillabaise; and a roast chicken, which combined a home-cooked feel (stuffing and crispy roast potatoes) with a very elegant execution.

IMG_3877After all that food, their special martini (coconut, pineapple and basil), and some VERY fine wine (Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc and a Cape Mentelle red), I was too full to appreciate the desserts, though I sensed they might have been the favourite course of most of the meet-up group.

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Compared to my last meet-up, these bloggers and instagrammers were more lifestyle and fashion-focused then the last group, a majority of them stylish young women. As before, interesting to hear what people are up to and in what ways they express their love of food and a night out. Food wasn’t our only link. I was happy to meet not one, but two other cat tragics. Thanks Café del Mar (and Vadawn, our able host for the evening); thanks Zomato; and nice to meet y’all, fellow meet-up-ers.

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Cafe del Mar Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Food Diary: Magnus Nilsson event with Pinbone at LP’s Quality Meats

IMG_2800On Friday night, 27 November 2015, LP’s Quality Meats and the crew from Pinbone restaurant (currently without a home, so doing events and pop-ups) hosted the Swedish chef Magnus Nilsson from the famed restaurant Fäviken.

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Articles like this one in the Independent made me interested in Fäviken; I think I first heard of it late last year or earlier this year. In any case, the idea that Nilsson was coming to Sydney was very exciting, and a friend and I grabbed the opportunity to attend a multi-course food event (and receive a copy of Nilsson’s very large Nordic Cookbook thrown in).

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In any case, I got confused and expected that Nilsson would be cooking up a storm, rather than promoting his book, giving a short talk and having the Pinbone and LP’s team serving up a feast inspired by his cookbook. The very buzzy restaurant was packed. Ben and I sat across from the wonderful Victoria and Jacqui (head chef at Nomad). My glass of tasty natural white wine was never allowed to be empty (meaning I completely lost track of how much I drank and drank… too… much).

IMG_2815The various dishes were interesting and tasty. And though I’d brought my fancy camera, the lighting in the restaurant wasn’t quite right to get good shots of the food. I reckon my iPhone would have done a better job. Oh well.

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Some of the highlights: boudin with salmon roe; emu tart; rye crepe; jerusalem artichoke with barley malt; pipis; and prawn sausage. The raw scampi was delicious and sweet. The IMG_3839dairy cow sirloin with fungus was a nice combo. I liked the taste of the rye flour, in both the crepes, and possibly the pretzel underneath the tuna, our very first course. Ah, the brussel sprout roasted crisp and black on the outside, with avruga was pretty great too.

IMG_2839The food just kept coming and coming! Dessert was a jam drop, and jelly, as well as wattle seed ice cream. As you can tell from the photos, this really was a feast. The cookbook is apparently as much a record of Nordic cooking as it is a useable contemporary cookbook… (seal intestines, anyone?) but I’m sure I can try to find something to try making…

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Restaurant Review: Les Près d’Eugénie, Bordeaux region, France

10574355_10152333366557671_632480135753592057_nSo, sit yourself down for a long read (with some good photos). For the story of my best meal ever, I might as well take my time, no?

During our trip in southwest France in August 2014, S. and I decided that, in addition to numerous regular yummy meals, we would treat ourselves to one particularly f*ing excellent meal. S. is good at research and presented me with a few options, which I reviewed and he allowed me to choose. Our choice was Les Près d’Eugenie, presided over by the famous chef Michel Guérard and his wife Christine, an heiress to the Biotherm company. A three-star Michelin restaurant, it’s also a hotel and health spa and since the 70s, has turned a small town an hour or two from Bordeaux (and 8 hours drive from Paris) into a destination for wealthy food-lovers and holidaymakers.

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But what would a three-star Michelin star restaurant be like? Sydney has some spectacular restaurants these days, and we’ve also treated ourselves to some fine meals overseas. Near the end of two weeks of travelling around to some wonderful spots in southwest France, I was curious, though hadn’t put much thought into it. I’d also not done too much research in advance. For example, my gathering of general knowledge had somehow missed out on knowing that the Michelin stars for restaurants came out of the Michelin travel guide which was an offshoot of the Michelin tire company. Which all makes sense if you think about it which I hadn’t.

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Our Sat Nav told us we’d arrived at our destination, and it was to our right, in Eugenie des Baths. Both of us looked over at the modest local bistro on the main street called Bistro d’Eugenie and thought, ‘Could that really be it?’ But two minutes further, there was an entrance to a grand estate with two well-dressed gentlemen at the gate to direct us through. So, this is what a three-star Michelin restaurant looks like. This is not at all just a restaurant. It is an ESTATE. To start off, gardens and trees, all pruned and manicured, a forest to greet you.

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After, a huge main building with a spa off to the right, and tables with umbrellas in the front courtyard. It is a huge property, stately and beautiful, and we were kind of blown away by it even before we went in.

We were invited, upon entering, to have a drink in the ‘salon’ and were lead to a wing of the building with three large rooms in a design that combined old French drawing room with colonialism (animal tusks and two zebra skin chairs). We had this whole room to ourselves!

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There were bookshelves, leather chairs, and a grand piano. Our cocktail, the speciality of the house, had armagnac, crème de cassis and champagne and at 20 Euros each, cost alone more than our share of the meal the night before, delicious pintos in San Sebastian in Spain. But boy, was it tasty. Along with the cocktail they brought an incredible selection of amuse-bouche to accompany it, which made it rather more worth the price.

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I don’t think I’ve ever been a restaurant where you get to relax and choose your menu in the salon… We sipped our cocktails, took numerous photos of each other and ended up choosing the most expensive menu, the ‘Enchanted Palace’, because the various delights of truffles and lobster and the dessert options were too tempting.

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The woman explained each dish and element of the dish with flair, and where there was a choice of two or three options, we each chose one so we could do our usual trick, of switching plates partway through (which the waiters thankfully pretended not to notice).

10625132_10152333366342671_1618028138716217667_nLet me just say before we get to the food that the service was impeccable. It seemed very prescribed in terms of a hierarchy, the attractive wait staff smoothly moving around from place to place, perhaps in an orderly presentation to remove cloches (the only other time I was in a restaurant that used cloches was in Durban, South Africa and was done quite awkwardly). There was one beautiful woman whose role it seemed was just to ask whether all the courses were OK. Chef Michel made his rounds and came by and said hello, which we loved. He seems a lovely, gentle soul. HIs wife, Christine, who I think has taken the main role in running both the accommodation and the management of the hotel seemed a little shy, perhaps of foreigners speaking French badly!

For our first course, the ‘Splendid Scampi au Bleu’ in a lovely consommé of citrus ravioli.

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As well as the Truffle Zephyr as a Cloud on a Delicate Garden Soup (maybe my favourite dish).

10511286_10152333365842671_7026659330480509167_nWe decided that the meal would best be accompanied by a different glass of wine with each course, and we could leave it up to the sommelier to choose for us. The wines were wonderful, though I didn’t write them down. The Pouilly-Fumé that accompanied the lobster, with body and a smokey flavour, was a particularly amazing match. We didn’t ask the price of the matching wines beforehand so were pleasantly surprised at the end when it was about what could be expected.

The next course was the soft pillow of morels and wild mushrooms in truffle sauce:

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As well as the ‘Silky Blinis of Black and White Truffles’. Are you getting the idea of luxury here: truffles, scampi, lobster…

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The next course, there was no choice. We both got the same. And really this lobster, roasted and lightly smoked in the hearth, with a country-style onion and velvet peach purée left us speechless. And still does.

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For the ‘mains’, we opted for the Wood Fired Beef..

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And the chicken breast from the Landes á la Rothschild, with a fine stew of veal sweetbreads, morels, truffle and rooster’s crests…

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The third choice, sea bass, we didn’t get to try (just as we didn’t get to try the ‘Tsarina Egg with Caviar’ for the first course).

Now to desserts… On that August 2014 trip in the southwest of France, I found that we had many memorable meals, that included inventiveness in the entrees and mains, but that the dessert was often basic, traditional and simple, probably based on something local or seasonal. They were usually lovely, but not outstanding. The desserts here broke this rule.

IMG_2301S’s delight had a name we couldn’t decipher at the time. It was ‘Un Soufflé Époustouflant à la Verveine du Jardin’, the breathtaking garden verbena soufflé.

And it was.

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The maitre’d (at least I think he was the maitre’d), who looked like a French Tim Gunn (from Project Runway), shared the anecdote with us that when Pierre Hermès, famed macaron and dessert creator, comes to Près d’Eugenie, he does not ask whether Michel Guérin is working that day, he asks whether this dessert is available. He also said that Hermès likes the dessert because it is so ugly, and isn’t something he could display in a store window, but is the perfect combination of textures and flavours, acidity and cream.

It was S’s favourite dish. I found it amazing in that it was not particularly sweet, nor showy, but it was, as was described to us, a perfect combination of textures and flavours. Served with a raspberry dessert wine, it was perfection.

Me, I had a chocolate plate “of kings”: Le Dessert du Roi ‘Tout en Chocolat

Petit Pot de Crème,
Sorbet,
Gâteau Soufflé et Mirliton

IMG_2317It had a little chocolate soufflé, with a perfect crisp skin, soft and unctuous and not too sweet, a little chocolate mousse or pudding, some more rich and fudgey chocolate topped with coffee granita (the clean texture of ice a perfect contrast to the richness of the chocolate) and a perfect little apple tart. Each was wonderful, and as a gourmand rather than gourmet, I liked being able to try so many different things. The sommelier chose to serve it with a Don Pedro Ximenez sherry… from 1927. I still can’t get over that. Five years before the year my Dad was born. It was rich, sweet, dark, smooth and grand and matched with various types of chocolate was… just… too… good.

This was a heavenly finish to an amazing meal. Although the meal did then continue on with some final sweet treats, just in case we weren’t filled enough.

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Then after lunch, very full of both food and wonder, we took coffee in the front courtyard IMG_2323(lovely, as well with a candied orange and a chocolate biscuit). At 10 euros, it was the most expensive espresso of our trip, but it was part and parcel of the experience.

We paid the bill of 330 Euro each, best not to think about it but one, we treated this as a very special occasion and two, this seems the price in Europe to pay for this quality of food, service and experience. Then, we went for a little walk around the back where we saw the full extent of the ‘spa’ wing, a vineyard and a swimming pool for guests of the hotel.

10511218_10152333017757671_7679571331133386389_nSo, now, we’ve tried a three-star Michelin restaurant.

A summary? While Michel Guérand is credited with ‘la cuisine mincer’, or slimming cuisine, we would bet our lives that this wasn’t it. This was rich, buttery, creamy food with intense flavours and luxury ingredients. The cooking techniques, I’m guessing, are contemporary adaptions of the classic, not tricky or molecular, but refined and stately, yet lively at the same time. I really wondered how, with less courses, Michel would match the heights of the degustation menus we’ve sampled with 12-20 IMG_2312courses each, but each dish here was substantial, and special.

The setting was completely unexpected in its grandeur and glory. It is perhaps not as old as I thought upon first entering, but it’s obvious that Madame Guérand comes from the background and experience to have created authentic and classic luxury, which I’ve never experienced before in such a form.

Looking back, it’s such a particular experience that I’m not sure I can compare it with another restaurant. Geranium in Copenhagen would probably have been my favourite contemporary Western dining experience, but this was kind of different. The food matched with the best of French service and spectacular surroundings made the whole experience truly unforgettable, or as you would say in French, “incontournable”. We feel very lucky to have been there and to be able to afford such luxury, and I think really, that so far, it was the best meal of my life!

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Food Diary: Cafe Oratnek, Redfern, Sydney

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I’m biased. It’s silly, but I’m kind of obsessed with the flavour of matcha, Japanese green tea. Whether Matcha Lattes from Starbucks or Matcha Kit Kats or the more traditional Matcha desserts, I’m a convert. So, when Cafe Oratnek (I always thought it sounded like a town in Turkey but it’s Kentaro spelt backwards, the chef/owner!) offers French Toast with matcha cream, well: you’re not going to get any objectivity from me.

My two brunch-mates like the place, though one said he’d like more choices on the breakfast menu. Me, I’m curious about their lunch menu which seems to have a stronger Japanese influence. And it’s an awfully nice setting to sit in the front of the restaurant outside, or even inside in the bright and airy space inside.

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Cafe Oratnek Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Food Diary: East Ocean Restaurant, Chinatown, Sydney

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I haven’t been to East Ocean in ages, having ended up in the habit of dropping by Zilver, mainly, or perhaps Marigold for old times sake. But taking a young fourteen-year-old friend out for yum cha, I liked the idea that they have a menu with photos to point at. Ascending the carpeted stairs, you really have no idea how big and crowded this place is going to be, but luckily, at 10:30am on a Saturday, we didn’t have a problem getting a table for two.

I found the food tasty and fresh, nothing special with no modern flair, but dependable. We had the steamed char siu bao, rice noodle rolls, also with char siu, prawn dumplings and chicken spring rolls. The wait staff were surprisingly friendly, and really made an effort to see if we wanted anything.

On the other hand, we ordered a drink, which got lost, and we had to ask for again, and then when we requested the spring rolls, which we could see in the distance but kept on moving away and away, it took them a very long time to get to us, much longer than if I’d gotten up and searched for it myself!

On the other hand, the perfection of these egg custard tarts, glossy and bright yellow with the flakiest pastry, kind of wiped out any complaints. $50 for the two of us. A dependable choice if you’re in Chinatown.

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East Ocean Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Home Cooking: Heston Blumenthal’s Lemon Tart

So, I’m going through a pie-making phase. Why not? All purpose. Slightly retro. Who doesn’t like a piece of pie… or tart, as the case may be?

But the last time I made a lemon tart, I remember that it was OK… but didn’t turn out as well as I’d hoped. It’s hard not to think of those lemon tarts in French pastry shops which the shimmering shiny yellow surface.

Having offered to bring dessert to a dinner party on Monday, and having some lemons that I needed to use up, I did a google search and saw Heston’s recipe on the SBS website. The question was, considering that it looked considerably more fussy than other recipes, would it be worth it?

IMG_3830Dear reader, I had no idea. First of all, the timing on the recipe says something like 30 minutes of preparation and an hour of cooking. But once you add an hour of chilling, and another half an hour of freezing, and hey, I’m a cooking conundrum: it looks like a hurricane has hit whenever I’m making something but I’m actually moving at a snail’s pace, just faster than an escargot. All up, this took HOURS.

Making the pastry was comical. I started the mixer too quickly so of course, the flour flew out of it on the counter and on the floor. The same goes for the poor advice about a hand blender to whip together icing sugar and egg yolks. The blender attachment on our little stick mixer is the least usable of what it came with, and the icing sugar, on the other side of the counter also flew up and around a wide perimeter before I managed to mix the two ingredients together.

Then chilling, and rolling dough between baking paper, and into the freezer and… why does one do this? Since afterwards, the dough is too frozen to mold properly into the pie tin. In any case, after it had defrosted enough, and I’d basically ended up using my fingers to press the dough in place, I thought that it looked very thick and reminded me of a complete disaster of a dessert I’d once made where the pastry and (accidentally way-too-hard) toffee layer on top of it made the whole thing so hard that one flew out from under a guest’s fork, across the room, like a hockey puck (Canadian reference there) and landed with a thud on the floor.

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The filling was not nearly as difficult. I decided to nutri-bullet the lemons to see if I could get any extra juice out (and shouldn’t have bothered with zesting them before), though the seeds were fiddly to extract. Our handy baking thermometer was perfect for both warming the filling to 60 degrees and then checking that the pie in the oven had reached 70 degrees (as well as the two small ramekins with leftover filling; even though my handy Drommar IKEA pie dish was supposed to more than big enough).

And the verdict? So, the filling is smooth and the tart does look attractive, albeit not super-smooth nor shiny. The dimple above is from my food thermometer. I’m not sure the technique to cover that up. My eggs did not have particularly yellow yolks, which I think made the colour particularly pale.

But the thing is the taste. It is far superior to the last tart I made. It’s rich and luscious and tart and lemony. It’s one of those tarts where a small sliver will do (meaning I will be serving this up to friends for a week!). And the crust! Hurrah. It’s more like a biscuit base than a pie crust, and certainly not the thin flaky variety. It’s substantial but not hard, just hard enough to support the lemon goodness.

A success. And although cleaning up after myself took ages, I think it was worth it. Next time perhaps I’ll have learned to be cleaner and more efficient…

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Food Diary: Jonkanoo, Surry Hills, Sydney

IMG_3806It’s strange to say that I miss Caribbean food when I can’t say that I’m all that much an expert in it. Jamaican patties in Vancouver (possibly not the best) and superb rotis in Toronto (oh my god, these were amazing). I’ve tried various ‘jerk’ seasonings. In any case, with a weird Caribbean renaissance in my neighbourhood (now THREE restaurants), I can’t say I’m lacking now (though none of them have Caribbean rotis). However, our Thursday night meal at Jonkanoo was… amazing. I wasn’t expecting it to be soooo good, and now give it a high recommendation.

IMG_3807With a tropical beach shack feel, and staff who all have authentic accents and looks, the thing is: the food was amazing. The fish fins were a highlight: perfectly spiced, salty and crisp, what a surprise. I loved the goat curry, matching perfectly to the spiced peas and rice. The salad was tasty (usefully balancing so much rich flavour). And the jerk pork: my god, this was beautiful, fatty, charcoaled, salty. So this is why one makes a fuss over jerk seasoning, not just the spices but the technique.

IMG_3805Matched with a bottle of white wine that came in the fanciest wine cooler we’ve ever seen, and this was really a wonderful meal. But wait: there’s more. With Dimmi reservation IMG_3804system’s $50 voucher, the already very reasonable prices became ridiculously cheap. We tipped generously, and deservedly as the waiter advised us that we were ordering too much food. Now, when do you get a waiter who can give you honest advice like that?

Jonkanoo Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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