Review: Hotel Pennsylvania, NYC

This hotel has received the worst reviews that I’ve ever read. Period. They are so terrible as to be comical, and yet, since my mother booked this hotel for our five-night stay in New York City, non-refundable, without checking with me first, it has caused me no small amount of anxiety.

Right across from Penn Station and Madison Gardens. You can see the entrance on the right.

Hotels are so expensive in NYC that when this pop-up ad appeared in her browser, and she saw that the Hotel Pennsylvania was centrally located (it is mentioned in reviews often that reviewers consider the location the only good thing) and the cheapest deal she could find, she booked it.

I’ve shared this hilarity with friends and family members, who have taken to reading the reviews regularly. The amazing thing is that the bad reviews keep coming. This isn’t a one-time thing. They appear every day. My pal, John, sent me this morsel:

First time in NY for business I was so disappointed. It was DISGUSTING !!! Most of their personnel were not pleasant except one guy (who didn’t seem surprised I wanted to be reimbursed)!… My room was a non smoking room but I found cigarette butts next to my bed…. The room was sooo dirty as well as the bathroom (rusty, dirty, moldy, towels with old hairs in…)… I was meant to have a “renovated” room, the photos on the website were nice but apparently a big JOKE. I can’t even believe a hotel like that is even open… the hallways smelt, dirty windows (I could hardly see out my window), thin walls! Met a girl who had a RAT in her room !!! Everyone I spoke to wasn’t pleased… Seriously do not stay at this hotel !!!!

In fact, this is a recurring theme. Not in every review, but say every 15 or 20 or so, someone has had a rat in their room. Or more often they try to check into their room and there are still people in it, or it isn’t made up, or they were unable to resolve a complaint with the staff, or they were really, really disturbed at the dirt or how run-down the place is. I’ve been singing snippets of ‘Hotel California’ in the days leading up to checking in (‘such a lovely place, such a lovely place… you can check-out any time you like but you can never leave’).

So, here’s my review: the hotel is huge. In fact, it’s the fourth largest hotel in New York City with 1,700 rooms. It has a huge lobby, which is clean and shiny, but with so many people in it at all times, it looks like a train station.

There are often lines out the door to check-in, hundreds of people, apparently, who are too tired from travelling to try their luck with the automated check-in machines. I’d heard that the rooms on the upper floors are renovated and marginally better though others have said don’t pay for an upgrade, because it’s not worth it. A friend suggested bribing whoever was at check-in for a better room.

Instead, there was a short line when I checked in (exactly at 3pm, hoping I’d have good luck). I laid out all my charm, and dropped the hint that it was my 82-year-old mom’s first time in NYC and boy, were we excited! The woman at check-in recommended a fifth floor room, which would have bigger beds. I did ask whether the top floors weren’t more comfortable but she said the fifth floor was fine.

Ascending one of the dozen elevators (necessary, with so many people; sometimes there’s a wait to get up and down, and we often needed to wait for an elevator with space), the floors of the hotel are a bit rundown and certainly old style.

In the dim light, I can see what reviewers say about it looking a bit Bates Motel. The effect is added when you find these weird metal shields on each door. What are these?

The area around the bathroom door is damaged and ugly and there is some damage inside the bathroom. I had to wipe off a bit of either mucus or blood from the shower curtain and wall. The shower has had the opposite problem to the other hotels I’ve stayed at in NYC. Instead of there being too little pressure, this one is so strong, I’m surprised to not have to call out search and rescue to find my mother who has been washed away into the Hudson River. But there are no rats in the room.

And there are nasty marks and damage around some of the walls… and there’s a terrible smell in the hallway and in the entrance to the room, perhaps some disinfectant, or something else. But there are no rats in our room.

And the windows are so dirty, it’s hard to tell the weather outside. And I had to clean the window sills before I could put anything on them, because they were dusty and dirty. But there are no rats in our room.

The walls indeed are thin. The neighbours on the first afternoon felt like they were in the room, and then again… at 3am. But miraculously, after that, we didn’t hear the neighbours at all. And there are no rats in our room.

And then, consider: the room is big. The beds are at least double beds, perhaps short queen-sized. Mom’s bed is fine. The mattress on mine is uneven and squeaky. But the TV is big and it’s a perfectly fine place to spend time when not exploring the city, and even though the hotel literature says that you have to pay for wireless, they give you a password, so it’s free!

Also, a rather big surprise. I was expecting the fitness centre to be terrible (just because) and it’s big and functional. You can apparently also use a nearby fitness centre for a nominal cost.

The wonderful thing about having one’s expectations lowered so much is that you’re happy when the worst doesn’t happen. So why so many terrible reviews? I can guess that when people have OK experiences with the hotel, they are less likely to review it. The sheer number of people coming in and out means that there are a lot of people who may give the place a bad review. It’s such an international clientele here, that I wonder whether the Indians and Spanish speakers and Europeans would be less likely to either leave reviews at all or use the same review sites (I’ve been mainly checking Trip Advisor).

In any case, for the price, and because there are no rats (or bedbugs) in the room, I’m happy with our stay here. As reported, the location is perfect. Easy to get trains, to walk everywhere, and to get to Newark Airport since it’s next to Penn Station.

Would I recommend it? Hell no! But hey: There weren’t any rats in the room.

On the other hand, there are rats all over NYC

Posted in NYC, Review, Travel | 6 Comments

Big Apple Food Adventures: Cho Dang Gol, Gramercy

NYC is a city of extremes, that’s clear, and it applies to food too. Blink your eyes and you’ve been served a plate of greasy carbs, the size of your head, or stumble, without much planning, into a restaurant that offers ridiculous culinary pleasure.

Cho Dang Gol’s special claim to fame is making homemade tofu since 1997, I think it is. It’s unlike tofu I’ve had before: with a texture that’s a bit lumpy and with some spring in it, like a soft cheese, but in a pleasant way. Without the uniform consistency and texture of the usual blocks of tofu, it really does taste homemade. You get a little bowl each as a complimentary appetizer.

We went totally Chinese diaspora in the ordering, and thought we’d ordered way too much, but hey, we’re good eaters. The egg crepe with cod roe and green tea mayonnaise was amazing. The jap chae lovely and unctious. The tofu and vegetable stew was delicious. The cod pancakes were amazing, almost like a cod omelette, mostly cod, very little batter. Loved the pork belly dish with spicy kim chee and picked radish. The crowning glory was the Korean Fried Chicken. I’d had quite a bit of KFC in my time, but this was the best. Light and crispy, super tender, and some mysterious spice. Really crispy in an addictive way, but without tasting over-battered. Not sure how they do that.

The big surprise, aside from how totally amazing the food was, ended up to be the bill. $120 before tax and tip, for the four of us, ordering so many dishes that they didn’t fit on the table, and two beers. That’s one of the cheapest meals I’ve had in this very expensive city. This will go on my recommendation list for anyone visiting NYC…

(The photos do not do this place justice. When I’m with groups of people, I usually take less photos. Food blogging is not for everyone. But as I said, I would recommend this place to anyone.)

Cho Dang Gol Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Big Apple Food Adventures: Atoboy, NoMad

I stumbled across this review in the NYT by Pete Wells who I totally adore. Ignacio and Kieran were game to try it and we had a late night meal here on a Tuesday night. Hooley dooley, as the say in Australia as an expression of Australia: this was a great meal.

Food that you’re unfamiliar with, and that hasn’t been dumbed down, can be confusing: how to choose among unfamiliar dishes and ingredients; how much to order? But they make it easy, in this cool, elegant, concrete space, hidden away in NoMad (so hidden I couldn’t figure out where Google Maps was pointing me towards). Choose three courses per person, and choose one each from each of the three sections (for $36 each). Simple!

Each dish was delicate, with flavours and textures that were slightly unfamiliar: sunchoke with oyster mushrooms and orange, sea bass tartare, lotus root, chili oil and sesame , I think every dish elicited an outward expression of praise. The octopus was a favourite (photo at the top), not only because it was so pretty. And we even made space for dessert: ginger panna cotta with grapefruit and a strange granita spooned over burrata with lychee yogurt and candied walnuts.

Loved this meal. Interesting. Exciting. Tasty.

Atoboy Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Big Apple Food Adventures: Bobwhite Lunch & Supper Counter

What is Soul Food? I wasn’t sure but I wanted to try some. Alphabet City in the East Village seemed closer to Kips Bay than Harlem, so I headed down to Bobwhite Lunch and Supper Counter at 94 Avenue C.

It’s fun to explore a new area of the city: so many cool looking bars and restaurants, lots of buzz in the streets at 7:30pm on a Wednesday night.

I was glad that Bobwhite’s had space for me, and I grabbed a seat at the counter. It’s a very simple menu: chicken, catfish, a few sides. I grabbed me the catfish with a pinot grigio, and it came, as you can see with a perfect biscuit, and I chose the macaroni and cheese which was perfectly tasty. The catfish surprised me: it tasted light and delicate and was delicately crisp. With lemon and the tartar sauce, it was yum.

And all up, this was rather cheaper than most expensive meals I’ve had in this city, $20 all up for a generous main and a glass of wine. Soul food is obviously just good for the soul. So glad I found this place.

Bobwhite Lunch & Supper Counter Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Theatre Review: Dear Evan Hansen, Music Box Theatre, NYC

Sniff. I’m wrecked. In a good way. I’ve been crying my way through Dear Evan Hansen.

There are a lot of heartstrings being pulled here. It touches on some pretty universal themes: not fitting in, loneliness, acceptance, the bonds and conflicts between family members. It imbues them both with a unique spin which feels like it’s individual, and yet the broad strokes of the story – a small lie that turns into a big one, the speed of how stories and emotions play out in social media – almost feel operatic.

The story, of course, is held together by the extraordinary performance of Ben Platt in the lead role: charming, vulnerable and quirky, yet the supporting cast are also amazing. With a few hours of retrospection (and reminded of this article in the NYT about Ben Platt), there’s just this amazing vulnerability and relatability about Platt’s creation of Evan Hansen. I felt like crying and hugging him, and yet, I cried for all the parts of me that have felt like this character: out of place, tapping on the window to be let in, sad and awkward. This is not like a regular musical where a character transforms into from awkward Elphaba in Wicked to the powerful Elphaba… Evan Hansen is as vulnerable at the end of the show as at the start, and his problems aren’t solved; he’s just further along his journey and his gift, his beauty, is how his heart is cracked open but continues to beat.

Meanwhile, I love the pop-Broadway sensibility of the score. It just goes right into my heart. A few of the songs, for me, are worth the price of admission already: Waving through a Window and Words Fail. The Broadway trick of singing about one thing (a baseball glove) to talk about something else (perseverance) works perfectly in this show (for an example of the opposite, see song about figs from Amelie). Similarly, I’d heard about the show-stopping So Big / So Small sung by Evan’s mom, and assumed it would be a directly emotional mom to son song, so was impressed with the storytelling of it. I sat next to a row of weeping mothers (and I was too). Sadly, one of the big numbers, You Will Be Found, is kind of exactly like Natalie Imbruglia’s Torn (try it out, you can hum it all the way through the song). But that’s a minor quibble.

I was so happy to be able to see this show.

How it came about is worth a small story. We did try a week or two to check out the standing room only tickets (they go on sale at 10am) but it seems like the only ones available go to people who have been waiting for MANY hours beforehand (at least from 6am I think). I’d heard about the queue for cancellations, and to wait a few hours before the show opens, but I couldn’t exactly figure out what to do. I went by on a Wednesday morning at 10:30am. Saw a queue, which I assumed was for cancellations. Waited for a while, not quite knowing what to do, and then a fellow who had won tickets in the lottery was trying to sell off one of his pair. Front row, all the way to the side. Yes, the view was a bit restricted but we got a booster cushion from the usher which worked fine. Sometimes the actors were singing away from us, but I really loved being so close to see the actors’ expressions. $200. Well worth it, I’d say, since the only available tickets that I’ve seen online lately have between $285 and $500. Hurrah. Where there’s a will?

Posted in NYC, Theatre/Concert Review | 4 Comments

Big Apple Food Adventures: Street Taco, Kips Hill

The NYC dining city is so dynamic. I can’t believe that a few places that I’ve just casually dropped by at have only been open a few months. Things seem to change here by the week… I had seen a listing for Street Taco on Yelp. with pretty good reviews but a bit mixed. Still, on a Wednesday night, a bit late, looking for something to eat, I felt like grabbing some of the Latin American cuisine that, while getting popular in Australia, has a flair here that I don’t think can be matched.

Still, I wasn’t sure about this place, on a corner only a block away from my hotel, the Carleton Arms. The name doesn’t describe much. And the menu, where you tick off on an order sheet the kind of tacos you want, seemed a bit limited. Tacos, nachos and guacamole. Boy, was I surprised.

To start with, their cocktails, on tap, are sensational. For $11, I tried both of them. One was a watermelon and lime mixture with tequila. It had a crazy punch of both alcohol and flavour. Scrumptious. The second (because the first was so good, I had to try it) was a spicy margarita. Equally good, but different flavours.

Then the tacos. It was explained that two of them come with hard shells. I was dubious. Aren’t those out of fashion? But no, the two that come with hard shells come with corn tortillas that have been perfectly deep-fried so they are crisp and light and rich and complement the fillings perfectly, an amazing tuna tartare and a ceviche, both with a good citrus hit. With both of these dishes, I like them, sort of no matter what, but usually find a sort of clean, citrus finish, perhaps a thinness of texture. Whatever they do here, they manage to make these combos feel… luscious and rich. Not sure what they do.

For the other tacos, they were perfect proteins, with coriander and spice, sauce, lime on the side: barbecued lamb, pollo asado and chicken tinga. All the tacos are $4 or $5 and I only ordered 3 to start with. And I wasn’t hungry after I finished them but they were SO GOOD I had to try 2 more.

The waitress (charming) sent over the manager to deal with this crazy person raving about their food, and I found out they’ve been open only two months; the tequila is of high quality (Milagro), and all the ingredients too, and they really pay attention to the combos to get them right. Honestly, before I came in, I was thinking: is this going to be better than the taco stand up the street that looks really cheap and humble? And now I’m thinking: how can I get back here before I leave, and who should I bring? $50 for 5 tacos and 2 strong cocktails. Yum! Highest recommendation. I think the new Mexican restaurants in Sydney are doing a good job, all things considering, but to get the ingredients all the way there… and then a kitchen staff that have direct experience of Mexico and Mexican cuisine… It’s just not going to be the same.

Street Taco Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Big Apple Food Adventures: Little Tong Noodle House

I’ve had noodles from Yunnan before, both in Yunnan and at a little restaurant in Sydney’s Chinatown. The noodle is called Mixian and it’s a spaghetti-shaped rice noodle.

I like it; it’s familiar in two ways, both because of the rice noodle texture (familiar to me as a thick Chinese vermicelli) and then also reminding me of the Italian spaghetti, but lighter.

We couldn’t get into Momofuku’s noodle bar after drinks at Huertas (I could have expected that) but this place, on a corner, looked fun, and we didn’t know how newly opened it is.

I had a dish with coconut milk and shrimp; husband had some spicy chicken.

They were pleasant and interesting.

Good selection of sake, always a plus in my books.

And the dessert, a simple ice cream with some extra crunchy bits was really very nice.

On the other hand, it didn’t give me that automatic feeling (which does sometimes happen in NYC) of: I want and I want to come back. I think it’s really interesting in such a big market for food how people will specialise and then see: can I capture the public’s attention?

I can see this becoming a neighbourhood favourite not really for its novelty but for providing a homely feel, if New Yorkers will adopt Yunnan as a second home. I wish them luck!

Little Tong Noodle Shop Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Theatre Review: Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Lunt-Fontanne Theatre

I admit to being mystified by this show. There were so many colours and so much movement that I found it hard to cast my mind back to the story, read in my youth, or possibly told in the classroom: I remember that elementary school teachers particularly liked to read aloud Roald Dahl, this one, or James and the Giant Peach.

But I do remember the story: awful children get their just desserts, and the dreamer, Charlie, ascends above them, becoming pals with the mysterious Willie Wonka.

But I either couldn’t follow the way the story is told here, or I just didn’t care. I was expecting good things from Shaiman and Wittman, the creators of the music for Hairspray, but none of the songs were memorable. The kids didn’t seem particularly more bratty than a lot of kids these days. I found some of their scenes of morbid demise amusing (giant squirrel attack!) but found the cultural comic stereotypes (Russians, Germans) not funny.

I’ve always enjoyed seeing Christian Borle, and thought he was good here, but didn’t have a lot of material to work with. The boy who played Charlie, however, was a highlight: occasionally I’ve found child actors to have a particularly precise style of belting out the bigger notes and keeping on the melodies. But Jack Ryan Flynn was infectious in his energy and gusto: not sentimental, just really being the role.

Reviews for the production are mediocre at best, though the Hollywood Reporter really trashes it. Darn, I wish we’d booked in advance for Dear Evan Hansen instead!

Posted in NYC, Theatre/Concert Review | 1 Comment

Big Apple Food Adventures: Cosme

Cosme has caused a big buzz, apparently. I can see why: sleek, chick setting, and a modern interpretation of Mexican food.

In Sydney, Australia, while some nicer Mexican restaurants have opened up in the last years, it’s certainly not fine dining. So, this felt like a particularly cool NYC experience to eat here.

The earliest lunch reservation we could get was for 1:45pm, though it didn’t seem completely packed when we arrived.

Their Bloody Marias ($17) which you can choose between three different chilis, were bloody fantastic. The tomato juice was thinner, in a good way, than what I’m used to, filled with spices and came with a handy jicama stick to stir it with.

The Arctic Char, tostada, elderberries, yuzu and avocado ($21) was a perfect dish. Very lightly cured fish. Great combo of crunch and soft.

My better half was not as impressed with the Huevos rancheros, refried black beans, mushrooms and queso fresco ($24) and thought it a little weird. I quite liked the fancy interpretation of something I’ve had in diners. Perfectly poached eggs, interesting mushrooms, fresh cheese.

The duck carnitas, to share ($34), were recommended, and were a standout. Fresh corn tortillas, and nice garnish but the star of the dish: a melt in your mouth, perfectly cooked duck.

No room for dessert. The (rave) review in the NYT classified this restaurant as expensive, so escaping for $135 for the two us was as good or better than I expected.

The service was attentive and efficient. We liked this place, yes we did!

Cosme Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Big Apple Food Adventures: Momofuku Milk Bar

So, the main reason I wanted to try Momofuku Milk Bar is that I wanted to see how my homemade version of their Crack Pie stacked up to the real thing…

I mean, I know I’m supposed to try the soft serve cereal milk cone, but maybe later…

Various folks, like the Brown-Eyed Baker, have a recipe up online, and I decided to give it a go. It was tasty, and super rich, and I wasn’t sure at the time whether it was worth the trouble. The smallest size bag of milk powder I could find was a kilo… and months later, I still have most of it. What does one do with milk powder?

In any case, while I like the oatmeal cookie crust, and the kind of buttery pecan pie or butter tart sort of filling, the taste of the real thing told me the main thing to do: cut smaller pieces! It’s really rich, and as I was serving up big slices, I think it was a bit overwhelming.

But in other ways, I’m pretty pleased with my homemade version: it was definitely more rustic without the perfectly thin and uniform crust of the store-bought version, yet you could taste the oatmeal cookie crust better because of it.

Momofuku Milk Bar Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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