Home baking: Josey Baker’s Adventure Bread

Baking during the COVID-19 lockdown 🍞 I made this recipe for ‘Adventure Bread’ from @JoseyBakerBread posted by @DavidLebovitz, Paris-based author and chef (check out his new book, Drinking French, it’s great).

It’s this amazing gluten-free bread made mostly of nuts, seeds and oats 🍞 It reminded me a bit of the heavy German or Scandinavian bread you can sometimes find at Aldi, in a heavy square loaf, sliced very thinly.

And I’ve always loved bread with lots of nuts and seeds. So, this is really, really tasty and not difficult to make at all 🍞🍞🍞 And I feel pretty smug that I made it myself.

We actually had most of the ingredients: psyllium husk, oats and chia seeds. I had to get some more sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds, and find some flax seeds too. You mix everything together with some liquid, put it overnight into the fridge and then bake it for a long time the next day.

It’s dense and has great texture. Tastes great smothered in butter. The only thing is that in the Australian heat, mold started to get to it after a few days (it’s so heavy, we were just treating ourselves to a piece or two each a day), so best stored in the fridge (or in the freezer as we’re doing).

Posted in Home cooking | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Book Review: David Sedaris’s When You are Engulfed in Flames

When You Are Engulfed in FlamesWhen You Are Engulfed in Flames by David Sedaris
My rating: 3 of 5 stars

I’ve enjoyed Sedaris’s writing in the past, and possibly even more so, hearing him speak at a writer’s festival. He’s funny. Occasionally, he produces a gem of a sentence that is sad, cynical and hilarious, all at once. If I had a better memory, I’d quote him at dinner parties, like people do of Oscar Wilde.

This book was passed onto me (as I will pass it on to a friend who has been giving up smoking, as Sedaris is doing in the last and longest essay in the book) and I noted that it is from 2008.

While Sedaris’s humour always involves some self-deprecation and observation about how strange and absurd the world is, what struck me is that I wonder if his humour (or that of 2008) is going slightly out of date. He often mocks other people and their physical appearance in a way that feels not challenging or outrageous, but just sort of mean. It’s possibly forgiveable since he often makes fun of himself, but it generally gave me the feeling that at this particular point of our history, it’s not funny anymore to make fun of other people.

The other issue is that while I found his recounting of stories from his younger years sharper and funnier, and more full of memorable, absurd detail, I found other stories to be fairly mundane and anecdotal. The final chapter, giving up smoking while in Japan, didn’t grab me: perhaps I’ve read too many ‘Westerners find Japanese culture strange’ stories or had too many friends who gave up smoking.

View all my reviews

Posted in Book, Books, Review | Leave a comment

Sydney Food Diary: Kobe Wagyu BBQ, Chinatown

I’m glad to see on Zomato how highly diners have rated Kobe Wagyu, up on the first floor across from World Square, at the edge of Chinatown. For that was my feeling too: this was great food and a great dining experience.

And it was a bit of a historical meal for us too, as it was the last place we went to before restaurants got shut down (except for takeaway service) because of the COVID-19 pandemic. So, if humanity is doomed, it was great to have this as our last restaurant meal.

Head up the stairs and be impressed by the fridge full of wagyu beef. In fact, I was at a Japanese restaurant in the same location maybe … ten years ago?

Anyways, here at Kobe Wagyu BBQ, It’s a fun and easy concept. For $84, you get a beautiful deluxe plate of sashimi …

You can also get free beer (one bottle each), free oysters (one each) …

… and then order small side dishes to your heart’s content (more on that below).

And you get a staircase of meat. I wasn’t careful enough to try to write down the different cuts and names of the beef (though having access to the menu might have helped) but there was an amazing variation …

… in how much fat there was, how thin or thick the slice was, and then the different texture and mouth-feel with each bite. It was really amazing, and you can tell this is high-quality, expensive meat.

And with a biteful of each type, you can really savour and appreciate them. I think there was only one out of the eight varieties that I thought was average. Mostly, we looked at each other after tasting a piece and said: OHMYGOD.

The setting is fun and comfortable. Perhaps a little too bright. But the booths are comfortable and they were spaced so that everyone was sitting a comfortable distance apart (all the staff were wearing masks, there was hand sanitizer at the entrance when you came in. It was clear they were doing everything they could to make it a safe and comfortable experience).

And the ordering pad is fun. Easy to understand and the orders come in minutes!

We ordered quite a few little plates: a cold tofu, takoyaki (octopus balls), crab claws (which tastes surprisingly of crab rather than the artificial seafood filler I expected) …

… a seaweed salad, asparagus, and burdock fries (chewy and interesting). We even had a frozen matcha tiramisu for dessert, which was fine. Nothing special but I like the concept.

All in all a wonderful evening and I would definitely go back. And I hope in these tough times for restaurant that Kobe Wagyu, and all of the other wonderful restaurants in Sydney, will also be back to normal business as soon as we can all be safe.

Kobe Wagyu Yakiniku Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Asian, Food n' Grog, Sydney | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Home Cooking: Alison Roman’s Spiced Chickpea Stew with Coconut and Turmeric

The COVID-19 lockdown is a perfect opportunity to try out all the recipes that I’ve been printing out and then putting to one side! I have quite a collection.

Some have already proven to be failures (for me, at least). I was so concerned that the ribs wouldn’t be cooked long enough in Roy Choi’s Braised Short-Rib Stew (which weirdly, as of March 2020, isn’t behind it’s usual NYT pay firewall), that while I managed to cook the ribs a long time (and they were delicious), I absent-mindedly chucked in the rest of the ingredients way too early.

So, the expensive and somewhat hard to find ingredients (roasted chestnuts, taro, fresh shitake mushrooms) melted down with the pumpkin into a thick gravy and it wasn’t a success.

In contrast, Alison Roman’s Spiced Chickpea Stew with Coconut and Turmeric would have to be my biggest success of the lockdown so far (photo at the top of the post). A columnist for the New York Times and Bon Appétit, she’s a cook and cookbook writer and you can visit her here. Her recipe is up on the New York Times website (and is behind the paywall) but it’s been reproduced in different places on the web, for example, here in the Irish Times, that calls it the chickpea stew that broke the internet.

The spices aren’t complicated (turmeric, ginger, garlic and onions) and neither are the ingredients, but matched with two cans of coconut milk (which are in short supply in Sydney at the moment, I think because of panic buying), and the chickpeas and chard, this stew was magical.

I was especially pleased with rehydrating the dried chickpeas myself in the pressure cooker (and then used the chickpea water with a few stock cubes instead of the water and stock called for in the recipe). Frying the chickpeas until they have a lovely crunchy texture on the outside is magic (I’ve also done this for a chickpea pasta recipe which was great).

I think this might have been the first time ever that I cooked with silverbeet (In Australia, they call the one with white stalks silverbeet and the ones with red stalks Swiss Chard, though I believe in North America, it’s all chard). I loved the substantial texture and weight of the leaves.

Since I hate waste, I looked up a recipe for how to use the stalks and made an Italian-style silverbeet stalks dish. We’d run out of parmesan though, which I think made a difference. Even with the garlic, capers and rich tomato sauce, we both found the dish a bit bland, and serving it as a separate course rather than a side dish emphasised this (even though the handful of macaroni I threw in was good for textural contrast).

It was a bit better, the next day, served alongside ANOTHER recipe I’d wanted to try, pressure cooker aloo masala (Indian curry potatoes), which I won’t bother posting a link too since the ideas were cobbled together from a few different recipes. The potatoes were OK but not fab; I’ll stick with something like the Washington Post’s Divorce Potato Roasties instead. And sadly, will probably toss the silverbeet stalks the next time I make the chickpea stew!

Posted in Food n' Grog, Home cooking | Leave a comment

Sydney Food Diary: Ho Jiak Town Hall

We had a chore in the CBD which meant it was a perfect occasion to try out Ho Jiak Town Hall during their soft launch. It’s funny to see the former Cuban restaurant transformed into a modern Malaysian hangout. It’s a big space, and beautifully designed. Good lighting and lots of witty design, like above.

Ho Jiak is one of my favourite restaurants. I love the way Junda and his team take humble and homestyle Asian food, and elevate it in some way, usually with luxurious ingredients but sometimes just with a perfect cooking technique. But I also am a huge fan of Junda’s personal approach. He states on his menus right upfront: he is cooking to honour his grandmother and his food is about love and affection and heart. I mean, it’s damn tasty too, but you just don’t get the feeling that he’s going to turn into one of the many celebrity chefs in Australia who are underpaying their staff!

We considered only ordering one noodle dish between the two of us (plus an appetizer) but the waitress didn’t hesitate in saying that we should order two dishes. We reckon she noted that clearly Asians have extra stomachs for eating, and I do. Though splitting the Sang Har Mee, marron in egg sauce on crispy noodles, would have been just fine.

But first the starter: Loh Bak. Five-spiced pork roll in bean curd skin and deep fried. I’ve had a similar dish. For yum cha, they have a minced meat and vegetables version, wrapped in bean curd skin and steamed in a savoury gravy. It’s a favourite. So, this was a shockingly good surprise, to have the mixture replaced with pure porky delight (layers of juicy fat), and have the deep-fried crispness. It’s crazy how good it was. $18.

I decided to try the curry chicken Nasi Lemak (also $18), as I usually stick to the same dishes (my favourites: steamed eggs, and anything coated with salted duck egg). This classic Malaysian rice dish was perfect in its combination of textures, and delicious tender chicken curry. I’m glad we tried it.

The main course, the aforementioned marron, to tell the truth, we liked but didn’t love. Though I loved the presentation. For $48, it’s a treat, and the marron had a great texture but not much flavour. And then this style of noodles, so soupy and wet (even though the noodles are crispy) is so different than what I’m used to from Cantonese styles (much less wet).

But really, all this tells me is that I’ll probably go back to my favourite dishes next time. I’m not sure why I’d come here rather than the location in Chinatown, unless I had to be in the CBD for some reason, but the more Ho Jiaks the merrier, really. Give this new location a try, I recommend, particularly at this crazy period of time with COVID-19, where restaurants are really having a hard go of surviving.

Ho Jiak Town Hall 好吃禧市 Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Asian, Food n' Grog, Sydney | Tagged | 2 Comments

Sydney Food Diary: Sea Salt, Clovelly

It’s pretty hard to go wrong in a location like this, a classic Sydney location, where you have views of the water, of some kind, from nearly anywhere in the restaurant.

What a lucky guy I was. My friend John picked me up from Surry Hills, drove us to Clovelly and treated me to a meal at this lovely cafe, where I’d previously only had takeaway coffee from.

We both were drawn to have different types of risotto. Mine was served with salmon with a perfectly crisp skin. A special of the day.

His came with pumpkin and mushrooms (I think on the menu it is the  ‘Pumpkin Pea Risotto’. Oh, and I had a sneaky glass of wine too. A lovely lunch at a lovely cafe, and nothing more to say than that!

Sea Salt Clovelly Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Food n' Grog, Modern Australian, Sydney | Leave a comment

Sydney Food Diary: Buffalo Dining Club, Darlinghurst

Wow. Four years since I’ve been to Buffalo Dining Club, and it’s refreshing to see a restaurant that found a great formula, stuck to it, and that it’s still doing booming business.

On a Friday night, it was packed, with a line-up (lucky we got a reservation) and frankly, I did find the tiny table for two at the side of the restaurant a little … small, with little space between us and the backs of the big guys at the shared table.

So, we had the same thing as we would have had years ago. The special cheese plate (this time with smoky scarmorza, delicious), crispy eggplant fried and fried cauliflower.

We split the special pasta of the day, linguine carbonara.

The revelation was the tomato salad. With mango! And the freshest, most flavourful little heirloom tomatoes ever. A perfect salad.

Oh, and we like their cocktails too (and since the wine is pricy, it’s a good option).

Buffalo Dining Club Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

IMG_3610Just went to Buffalo Dining for the second time. The first was for lunch in Sept 2015 with Johnny, and the second time was for lunch in Nov 2016 with Johnny. The thing is: lunch is a great time to go, for while I’d always wondered about this place, and heard good things too, every time I’d been by in the evenings, the line-ups were ridiculous. The waitress told us that on Friday and Saturday nights it can be up to two and a half hours!

So, what nicer thing to do than head in for lunch. Wednesday to Saturday.

It’s a simple menu, recommended to start with a cheese of some sort with two sides for $20. The first time, wee opted for the burrata (my god, how can you not like a burrata) with eggplant (crispy, delicious, breaded sticks) and brussel sprouts and chorizo (perfect).

IMG_3611

This latest time a creamy goat cheese with deliciously fried mushrooms and oh, we ordered the eggplant again.

img_5871 Then you can also have a salad. We passed on this during our first visit, but this time, we had a simple grilled greens with buffalo mozzarella. It was a little salty I have to say but otherwise perfect, and I love the ceramic plate, imitating either a paper plate, or a tin foil pie pan.

img_5872

Next choose from a few different pastas, though the cheese and pepper one isthe most popular.

Listen, readers, I was blown away. I love food that you can interact with, and I love a gimmick (my partner will attest to that with the number of food gadgets we have in our kitchen). So, fresh pasta that is tossed inside a wheel of cheese, with more tasty cheese scraped out on top of it, served in a bowl with a side of delicious hot pepper sauce.

IMG_3613

Of course, I was so stuffed that my work productivity dropped that afternoon to near-zero. But those are the sacrifices we make. I would have been worse if I’d had a glass of wine too, but we thought it was a bit pricey and unusually, exercised moderation.

Finally, I love that this place is not just a restaurant but a lifestyle. The team are all dressed in the restaurant’s t-shirts, a tough sort of skull motif, they’ve got tattoos galore, and one of the owners had a bandana around his long hair, his t-shirt tooked into his jeans with a big Western belt. It was kind of all perfectly right: 70s bikers. And why not?

Posted in Food n' Grog, Review, Sydney | Tagged | 1 Comment

Sydney Food Diary: Sasaki, CBD

Not really in the CBD, tucked behind Hyde Park on the Surry Hills side, it actually took us a while to find Sasaki, hidden away in an unassuming location off an alleyway.

Wow, it is a find though. An elegant omakase for $80 (there was a $60 option too), and a matching tasting of sake ($50 each), oh an a supplement for having the wagyu beef instead of the duck (for one of us, $20). We found it well worth it.

And though there are parts of the glass awning and entranceway that look a little rundown (and the covered outdoor area might not be nice in bad weather), the atmosphere feels really elegant and cool and elevated. Great ceramics too.

It’s perhaps my biggest weakness as a food blogger that the posts that I have the hardest time writing and take the longest to do (we visited Sasaki for a pre-Valentine’s Day meal) are for restaurants I like the most.

I have the sense of wanting to do the place justice, explain all the reasons in detail why I liked it, and describe each course, say, as elegantly as Jackie, Does my bomb look big in this?, does in her reviews.

But I suppose I can allow myself to be lazy. That if the menu is included, and the photos of the food are there, you’ll get the feel of the place.

It does require that the plating and presentation are as good as the food tastes (oh yes, it was).

But I guess I could make a few comments… I love a beautifully presented freshly shucked oyster. This, with Japanese seasonings (yuzu and sake), was delicious. We started things off with cocktails, and they make really very interesting ones here, some great Japanese mixology going on. Husband thought that this green tea margarita was perhaps the best margarita ever.

The cuttlefish and uni with a sour plum granita was intriguing and weird and refreshing (photo at the top of the page).

I love both savoury and sweet custards, so the ‘tamago tofu’, a cold silken egg custard, was right up my alley.

The tuna, papaya and spice was elegant, though perhaps more similar to dishes we’ve had elsewhere.

This strange dumpling was, on the other hand, not like anything we’ve had elsewhere. I kind of liked it, but it was unusual, let’s say.

There was a gorgeous pairing of bar cod, with a perfect clam on each piece, and brussels sprouts leaves in a gentle broth. It was simple, not showy, and kind of perfect.

And I loved the simple rice that they served with it, corn mixed in with either a seasoned rice or something more substantial than the regular short grain Japanese variety (we didn’t get the Pork & Eggplant that night; that menu was to show us the sake pairing).

The duck was beautiful, as expected. The wagyu beef, for me, was worth the supplementary cost. A perfect piece of beef. Yum.

I have always loved sake, and so it was a real treat to get a variety of them: all with different complex flavours. Yup, what a treat.

I have to admit that the desserts weren’t really to my liking. No, I should say: I liked them but they didn’t stand out like the other dishes. I do like Japanese desserts but more as a snack with tea, or for a casual occasion. It’s hard to bring them into the realm of fine dining.

But I was surprised that husband arranged to have a special message on one of the desserts (our 14th anniversary was not that long before the meal) and really: I found this meal, all in all, to be fantastic.

Sasaki Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Asian, Food n' Grog, Sydney | Tagged | Leave a comment

Sydney Food Diary: Nanjing Dumpling, Chinatown

So, I walked by here a while ago and thought: what is a Nanjing Dumpling?

And one lunch hour, working at the library at Darling Square, I decided to forego the dozen of options there, and come back a block to Chinatown to try this place out.

Though I still have to discover what a Nanjing Dumpking is. I decided I could order four different things and try them, instead of one plate (or bowl) of dumplings. This was a (must try!) sesame biscuit. A lovely flaky pastry with meat inside. As good as it looks.

 

I was amused that the chopsticks are hidden in a drawer at your table!

And for my other dishes, a very flaky and crisp onion/shallot pancake, the ‘pork bun’ from the menu turned out to be a steamed bao, which was nice enough (not BBQ pork though, just a juicy pork mixture), and the biggest surprise was that their version of a ‘siu mai’ had sticky rice in it.

All in all, a satisfying and interesting mixture, and if you’re reading this now, please, please support your city’s Chinese restaurants at a time that they are really suffering from the drop in business due to COVID19. I hate that all these hard-working folks, serving us good food, are hurting so badly.

Nanjing Dumpling Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Asian, Food n' Grog, Sydney | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Sydney Food Diary: Nakano Darling, Darling Square

With some smart design, it really feels like you could be in Japan. Stepping through an opening in a corrugated iron wall (and out of torrential rains), there are a few low tables, a number of high tables surrounded by colourful neon signs, and a few normal tables.

There’s a huge screen playing trippy Japanese commercials. The young, personable Japanese staff rush around to make sure you’re fed and watered.

From our view, at a low table near the entrance, looking out the doorway, we could imagine being in a bar in Osaka or Tokyo.

I mean, the space wouldn’t be so large (and the kitchen and bar are big) in Japan, but we loved the vibe.

Hot sake was perfect for a night like this and we matched it with a whole bunch of small dishes, Izakaya.

Not a bad philosophy really, food to go with drinking, rather than a drink to go with a meal.

Edamame. A flat omelette.

Octopus karaage. Chicken karaage. Gyoza.

The one that stood out was a pickled mackerel, delicate with some texture, but just the right amount of ginger and vinegar to offset the fat-laden flesh. A beautiful dish.

The others were pretty regular fare, really, nothing special, but we liked the place so much, we didn’t care much. We’ll be back.

Nakano Darling Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Posted in Asian, Bar, Food n' Grog, Sydney | Tagged , | 2 Comments