Cocktail of the Day: The Sencha Flip

I love Japanese tea and often serve it to my reiki clients before (and after) a treatment. While hojicha is my standard, with roasted rice, sencha is another green tea that I like and got a hold of lately. It’s a green whole leaf tea, and apparently makes up 80% of Japan’s tea exports. The other factoid for the day is that it is made of leaves grown under sunlight, which is different than other teas (uh, grown in the dark? Grown under moonlight?).

No matter. I brewed up some sencha and my client declined to drink any of it and this gave me the inspiration to look up whether I could make a cocktail with it, since I’ve been making daily COVID cocktails since the lockdown started in Sydney. Should I admit that? While I know that a cocktail today is not necessarily a good thing, I find such pleasure in it.

And I found a lot of pleasure in this drink.

TheGinQueen.com posted this recipe posted by Gazregan.com which came from Jason Walsh, a bartender in Brooklyn, New York, from CocktailLogic.com (which no longer seems to work). But you can see what Jason looks like here, where he’s spruiking some sort of tea drink as a mixer for cocktails!

Jason said: “This cocktail was inspired by my adoration of Sencha Japanese tea. Many people use Matcha; however, Sencha has more complexity and flavour so I prefer it over Matcha in certain cocktails.”

I’ve made the recipe for two (because cocktails like company) but halve it if you’re drinking solo.

🍸 4 oz gin of your preference
🍸 3 oz sencha green tea
🍸 1/2 oz (or a big squeeze) of honey
🍸 1.5 oz fresh lemon juice (one medium-large lemon)
🍸 1 egg white

Dry-shake, then add a few ice cubes (say 4 or 5) and shake again. Strain into a coupe glass and enjoy.

This gave me the opportunity to perfect my dry shaking technique, which I read should be done as long as you can (60 seconds?). It really does create a much more significant amount of pretty foam than when you shake an egg white (and other ingredients) with ice.

The original recipe called for sweetened sencha while Kindred Cocktails got confused and removed the reference to the sweet part. I considered using sugar syrup, but I think the honey is a nice match.

This drink reminded me a little of a pisco sour. Something about the tea mellows out both the gin and lemon and the end result tastes sophisticated and complex. And yummy. Tell me if you try it!

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Sydney Food Diary: Alex ‘N’ Rolls, Marrickville

My friend Lai Heng (whose photos appear in this post) enthusiastically recommended that we take up the suggestion from this rave review in Broadsheet and head over to Alex ‘N’ Rolls to see if they really do have the best Banh Mi in Marrickville. Or Sydney even!

Che-Marie Trigg, the author of the article, describes them better than I could, but here’s to say: Yes. She’s right. These were uh-mazing.

Even getting them, standing in line, and then sitting at the small table, while the line continued was fun. I like eating somewhere where you know, because of the demand for the food, that it’s good.

I absolutely can’t believe that the sandwiches were only $6. This has got to be the best deal in town. Sydney’s expensive for food, drink and coffee, so $6 hardly gets you anything in most places, much less a delicious pork sandwich.

You can tell when they are making the sandwiches that they are pros at it, and that they take real care to get exactly the right amount.

The hit of chili was strong, but perfect. The pork was soooo delicious (choose between three kinds). The buns were crisp without being crumbly. The fresh vegetables and herbs: great.

What else can I say? Get there.

This is the first review I’ve done since before the COVID-19 lockdown. I think for my Zomato reviews, I’m going to give all the restaurants and cafes five stars until things stabilise. Any restaurant and cafe that is managing to stay open and serve customers at this time I think deserves the highest praise. And I’d give Alex ‘N’ Rolls five stars anyways!

Alex 'N' Rolls Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Cocktail of the day: NutriBullet Watermelon Daiquiri

So, the COVID cocktails turned into a daily habit and I haven’t managed to shake it, even now that the lockdown has eased. It still feels like a treat to finish work and have a cocktail before dinner, and to delight in the discovery of a new recipe or to purposely choose to indulge in an old favourite.

My routine generally is to either get an interesting bottle of liqueur from which I base a number of cocktails on, or sometimes an ingredient. It is a sad reflection of my health these days that I buy fruit, because I should eat more fruit, and end up making cocktails out of them.

The watermelon in the fridge also gave me a chance to use some of the Captain Morgan Spiced Rum that I bought to replace the Bacardi White Rum that we’d run out of. I’m not sure whether I like it! Something tasted a bit artificial and strong when I used it in a Dark and Stormy the other day. But it tasted fine in this cocktail.

Looking up a recipe, most recipes are for JUGS of this, and the majority recommend freezing the watermelon first. And using a blender. We’ve got a NutriBullet and it’s a favourite among many kitchen appliances. It makes super creamy soups. Husband uses it for healthy shakes. And I think it whips up a rather nice cocktail.

Adapted from the folks at the Fitchen, this recipe makes enough for 4 glasses, or in our case, 2 glasses each!

Nutribullet Watermelon Daiquri (4 servings)

🍸 4 oz. spiced rum
🍸 2 oz grand marnier or cointreau
🍸 2 oz. fresh squeezed lime juice
🍸 2 cups of watermelon cubes (seedless makes it easier)
🍸 6 ice cubes

Blend it all up. Drink with pleasure.

Also: I’m super happy that I finally got coupe glasses (which also seem to be known as champagne saucers). They seem to be popular for serving cocktails these days.

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Home Cooking: Jack Monroe’s Cannelini Beurre Blanc

This surprising dish is luxurious and delicious while at the same time being easy to make and very inexpensive. It deserves the same viral popularity as #TheStew in my humble opinion.

I stumbled across the recipe in the New York Times (where I get a lot of food inspiration). While I’m grateful for their columnists for introducing me to these great chefs and great recipes from elsewhere, I think I’m a little uncomfortable that the by-line of the person who reprints the recipe is more prominent than the person who created it: in this case, Jack Monroe, an English food writer.

In fact, the recipe on her website, not behind the NYT pay wall, on her awesome website, Cooking on a Bootstrap, makes me like the recipe even more, which I didn’t think possible. It explains Monroe’s food philosophy, where she says ‘I want to live in a world where everyone should be able to put a beurre blanc on the table without hesitation.’ The servings of this recipe costs LESS THAN A DOLLAR and yet, it ‘would sit proudly on any hifalutin restaurant menu’. I think I’ll serve it as a first course sometime.

I was drawn to the recipe since I’ve been wanting to make more beans in my pressure cooker. I hear they’re good for you, beans, and rather than buying them in tins (which is cheap and easy and I don’t have anything against), I thought I might as well cook them myself. Throw a cup of them in the electric pressure cooker, with more water than I put in the first time (ahem) and they’re perfect, some 40 minutes later. So, after buying some dried cannelini beans, I found this recipe, which was perfect.

But I was also intrigued because I couldn’t really figure out how the recipe would turn out. You cook the pasta in the broth! I’ve never done that before. It gave me a chance to try out a new shape, a garganelli, that I watched Laura on this season of Masterchef Australia make (she’s a pasta expert). But you can use whichever is your preferred small pasta shapes. And then, beurre blanc: I wasn’t even sure what the taste would be. Butter, white wine vinegar and white wine.

What happens, magically, is that the beans fall apart into this thick, luxurious sauce and any vinegary taste disappears from the beurre blanc so that when combined, it tastes rich and buttery and balanced and elegant. It’s an amazing recipe, methinks. And if you care to learn more about Jack, she seems super cool, super smart and she’s an anti-poverty campaigner as well as a food writer. Cheers, Jack. You’re awesome.

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Why we like the writers we do … or not

The pages of the print-out are dated 13 January 2009, in fact, more precisely than that: 12:01pm. It’s an article that I liked in Salon.com from 2002. I suspect that years after I first read it (I was reading a lot of Salon those years), I remembered it and printed it out so I could save it.

It seemed that I had found in the words of a journalist named Tom Bissell something profound and correct in a long essay about how we connect with writers and not with others, even though we know that everyone else might like/hate them, and even when we have contradictory feelings for very similar writers. Perhaps I liked it as a justification for the authors that I’ve not connected with, or haven’t been drawn to read.

The article was called ‘I’d prefer not to‘ and I’m happy to see it’s still online.

I’m amused to now read that the author went on to co-write the book “The Disaster Artist: My Life Inside The Room, the Greatest Bad Movie Ever Made” which I’d heard of, after my friend James introduced me to the semi-regular showings of The Room at a cinema here in Sydney, Australia. I’m also interested to read that Bissell has kept writing, including a book of short fiction, and including video games scripts. I’ll have to check out those short stories.

The argument that he lays out is that the books we end up falling in love with are akin to finding a friend that provokes a ‘nearly cell-level sensation’, the pages emitting an ‘aura, the ineffable, almost psychic pulse’. It is more than just subject matter or aesthetics or whether we like the politics of the book, but something that is both describable and indescribable.

At times, we might not be in the right place to connect with a book (physical, temporaral or mental), but when it happens, it is love, yes.

Now, I’m going to recycle these pages, since I know where to find the article, which he wrote when he was only 28 years old. It’s worth a read if what I’ve written has peaked your interest.

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Book Review: Lydia Davis’s The End of the Story

The End of the StoryThe End of the Story by Lydia Davis
My rating: 2 of 5 stars

I found The End of the Story a confusing book, and yet, it felt like it was purposely so. The narrative and descriptions could be emotionally precise: ‘slipping back through those years to an innocence or freshness that had a certain helplessless attached to it.’ Or both poetic and precise, ‘the sidewalks were full of canes and walkers, the old people swaying among them’. Or even in details, extremely precise, for example where the protagonist recounts both a 37- and a 14-minute conversation with her lover/ex-lover.

But a lot of the book is about being vague and imprecise. The narrative plays with how much detail to divulge, admitting that ‘memories are quite often false, confused, abbreviated, or collapsed into each other’. The locations are described in abstract without names. The lover/ex-lover only slowly gains physical details, over many pages. He is wide. He has reddish-brown hair. It is surprisingly late in the book that we learn he is 22 years old. A major argument occurs, and we are told she shocks him, but we are not to learn what it was that did so.

The End of the Story, winner of the Booker Prize in 2013, was written by Lydia Davis, her first and only novel. She is well-known for short stories. I like short stories so I’m not sure how I haven’t stumbled across her in my reading history. The novel is about a relationship between a 34-year-old woman writer and, as mentioned above, a 22-year-old man.

It is a novel about writing a novel, in a way that with the mechanics laid bare, I found interesting at first but then somewhat painful. What it reminded me of most was Karl Ove Knausgård’s My Struggle of which I only read the first and meant to read the rest. The writing is clear and competent and often elegant, but most of all feels like a direct reflection of the author’s thought process, a detailed and complete, and somewhat cold recounting of a relationship, with all of the author’s thoughts, indecision about what to put in and what to leave out, and a level of forgetfulness of how events actually occurred. ‘There were five quarrels, I think,’ she writes, and tries to decide whether it would be better to conflate events for easier storytelling. ‘I was acutely aware of the smallest sounds in the room,’ she writes. We sometimes get, like in Knausgård’s writing, every detail, every thought.

Although I found this exploration of memory and the writing process interesting, it became less interesting the longer the novel went and actually found it hard to finish, reading about that constant ambivalence. And I felt disengaged with the main story. It’s a relatively short relationship, less than a year, I think, and while the narrator explains that she missed the man afterwards, and was hurt by the breakup of the relationship, her descriptions of him are cold. She’s mostly annoyed with him, distant and admits to treating him badly. She’s not particularly interested in his life outside of their time together. I think it’s about halfway through the book before I finally read a reason why she likes him, a physical attraction and comfort and feeling seen by him, that she got his full attention. She’s honest about it, admitting that she may have felt ‘that I did not have to love him very deeply, or considerately, for him to go loving me’.

But I found this a difficult narrative. Why should we care about the relationship when she didn’t care much for it? How are we supposed to care about her and how hurt she was by the break-up, when neither the relationship nor the man seemed very substantial. Then she becomes a stalker, after the end of the relationship and won’t leave him alone, won’t stop thinking about him, wanting him, calling him. This wallowing in broken-heartedness seems indulgent because he doesn’t seem worth it. He’s barely employable, drifting, happy to use people for his own purposes and not particularly truthful. But then I found it hard to find any sympathy or interest in the narrator for her self-pity, her coldness and her endless churning of thoughts.

It becomes evident that more important than the relationship is the story of the relationship, ‘even though the novel claims to be fiction and not a story about me’. It is about how to write the story, about what is remembered and what is not, what is falsely told and corrected, or left out.

I’m puzzled why this book was so praised and how it won the Booker Prize.

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Book review: David Lebovitz’s Drinking French

Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 RecipesDrinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes by David Lebovitz
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

I’m a huge fan of Lebovitz’s blog and website, and his regular newsletter, having discovered them around the time that I was lucky enough to live in Paris for a few months of time, in two consecutive years. He was an indispensible source of advice for restaurants, bars, food stores and recipes (which I made in Australia, as we never had very big kitchens in our AirBNBs or rental apartments). Moreso, he imbues a sense of adventure, discovery and delight for what to discover in French eating and drinking.

As I’ve been making more cocktails lately, I ordered this book as soon as he announced it, and it arrived, fortuitously, not long before the COVID-19 lockdown. So, I’ve already been making various cocktails and drinks, including some homemade crème de cacao, and mixing up drinks with Lillet and St Germain Elderflower Liqueur. I found a bottle of Dubonnet, so that’s the next ingredient on my list.

But it’s far more than a recipe book. His writing style is so engaging, and each recipe is an opportunity to let us know something new about French drinking and cuisine, or the culture. It’s all very romantic, and feels much more real (and authentic) than the whole genre of books about ‘Living in Paris for a Year’ or ‘I fell in love with a Frenchman’. You really feel like you want to hang out and have a drink with him, and I felt terribly envy that I’m not in his home when he’s serving up these drinks … and snacks, as there’s a lovely selection of recipes of food to match up with the drinks.

Highly recommended for anyone who loves Paris and France and anyone who likes a good cocktail. He’s also stirring up cocktails online on Instagram (in lockdown and unable to do a book tour): I’ll have to check it out.

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Book Review: Shaun Tan’s The Arrival

The ArrivalThe Arrival by Shaun Tan
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

Wow. I’m stunned by this book.

I’ve read a lot of comic books in my time, and some graphic novels, so on first glance, I wondered how the format would work. The panels are mostly square, a series of 12 or 20 of them, say, and then a larger illustration.

Tan creates his own rhythm and style, and basically, from the first pages, I was drawn in. The smaller drawings require more attention, simply to take in what’s happening, so when a larger view appears, a punctuation or emphasis, it has this feeling of emotional enlargement as well.

When the protagonist of the book sees scenes of his new city for the first time, I felt this same sense of a huge, unfamiliarity looming over me. And they took my breath away, these images. The first are identifiable, a father leaving his wife and child, to emigrate. And then wonderfully, it’s clear that this is not a literal tale. There are dragons. There are strange and charming creatures. The language is incomprehensible.

And yet what is clear and understandable are the emotions, the small victories and challenges of the protagonist as he makes his way into this new life. The drawings are *beautiful*: moody, emotional, gorgeous. And the creation of these worlds and this story, all in images: what a wonderful achievement.

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COVID-19 lockdown cocktails

Um. We’re in lockdown. COVID-19. This would seem to be a good time to have a cocktail. Since what else are we going to do? (Rhetorical question: don’t answer it).

So, the biggest success so far has been pre-mixed negronis, nuked in the microwave, and made in a batch. Look up @mrlyan on instagram or google Ryan Chetiyawardana’s recipe for the Nuked Negroni, where the usual suspects (gin, red vermouth and campari) are infused with blackberries, grapefruit peel and rosemary in the microwave at 600w for 3 minutes.

Then, when you want to use it, you just stir 3 ounces (per person) with ice until it’s cold, and then pour onto a big old ice cube. I love negronis. I’m pretty indiscriminate and don’t often meet a negroni I don’t like, so I can’t tell if this one is better, but I like to think it is.

I found another recipe for bulk, nuked Vieux Carrés (a drink originating from New Orleans), so that’s next on my list to try.

Part of the fun of making cocktails is seeing what ingredients are on hand! As we found a bunch of limes on special at Harris Farms, and a friend who stayed with us gave us a bottle of rum (which we weren’t keeping a regular stock of), I decided to make Boston Sidecars the other night:

🍸 3/4 ounce rum
🍸 3/4 ounce brandy
🍸 3/4 ounce grand marnier
🍸 1/2 ounce lime juice

Shaken with ice, served in a sugar-rimmed glass and we couldn’t resist putting in a maraschino cherry 🍒 It was lovely. A little bit on the heavy side, but the lime juice lifts it.

Other cocktails which I didn’t take photos of: the Dark and Stormy (ginger beer, rum and a twist of lime: very nice); and to use up some Pimm’s we had stored, a Pimmlet (instead of a regular old Pimm’s cocktail):

🍸 25 ml Pimm’s No.1
🍸 25 ml Gordon’s Gin
🍸 25 ml fresh lime juice
🍸 Dash of sugar syrup
🍸 Cucumber slice
🍸 Mint leaves

Pimm’s and cucumber seems a classic combination. Great for a hot day. Making this inspired me to make my own sugar syrup, so stay tuned for some more cocktails that make use of that!

The night before last was Angostura Bitter Sour, as years ago, I had accidentally bought a second bottle of bitters, when we already had one. So I wanted to get down to one bottle (impossible unless you us more of it than the usual 3 dashes). In the meantime, I had some egg whites leftover from making ice cream, so this was the perfect recipe. It was surprising good, perhaps like a Jagermeister cocktail instead of a shot, some deep and rich herb flavours (🍸 an ounce of bitters) mellowed with sour (🍸 an ounce of lime juice) and sweet (🍸 an ounce of sugar syrup). All shaken up with the egg white to make it foamy. This was a fun experiment (with a pretty deep purple/brown colour) but I’m not sure I’d do it again.

Last night was also a pretty cocktail. We’ve become fans of Fever-Tree tonics, but for my last liquor run at Dan Murphy’s (where I treated myself to a number of ingredients to make NEW cocktails with), they were out of every flavour of tonic instead of the lemon tonic water. When I looked it up on various websites, mixologists are VERY specific about matching this tonic water to certain ingredients, rather than just making a lemony gin and tonic.

The ‘Bitter Lemon Cooler’ was refreshing, and pretty. I’m likely to make it again sometime, and it’s a good way to use up dry vermouth, which is impossible to use up with the whisper of it I add to martinis.

🍸 1 1/2 oz Dry vermouth
🍸 1 oz Gin
🍸 1/4 oz Grenadine (or maraschino cherry juice, which we used)
🍸 1/4 oz Fresh lemon juice
🍸 Bitter lemon soda

That’s a rather full report of last week’s cocktails! Stay tuned for more (as it seems the lockdown will go on a lot longer).

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Book Review: Ocean Vuong’s On Earth We’re Briefly Gorgeous

On Earth We're Briefly GorgeousOn Earth We’re Briefly Gorgeous by Ocean Vuong
My rating: 5 of 5 stars

I was stunned by this book. Immediately, on entering it, it’s clear that the story will be unconventional. A letter to a mother. An autobiography? A poem? The shifts in time and scenes were disorienting, but in a way that I didn’t mind, sort of like getting used to turbulence on a flight.

I’ve read many immigrant stories in my time and stories from a multicultural and Asian North America (which is where I’m from, hence the interest). And then I’ve read a lot of gay fiction (being gay and a gay writer). To combine those two strands of storytelling, and set in the context of a decaying, poor America amidst the opioid epidemic – I was delighted by this original setting.

And I thought his language was really, really beautiful. While Dwight Garner, in his review in the New York Times, found parts of the writing ‘showy’, ‘affected’ and ‘swollen quasi-profundities’ with the effect like pebbles in your shoe, I didn’t mind it, or in fact quite liked it.

I don’t particularly like writing that is too ornate but I don’t mind showy, for example, a favourite book is Michael Ondaatje’s ‘In The Skin of the Lion’, which I didn’t know how showy it was until a friend complained about it (she preferred the subtler and more popular ‘The English Patient’).

But I didn’t really think of it as showy. I found it striking instead, that I often had trouble following a train of thought, or an image, that the lines were reaching for meaning in a way that I didn’t quite understand. But rather than being bothered by it, I could see that Vuong has a different way of looking at the world, and a way that I think is marvelous: filled with beauty among much pain, full of feeling but not sentimental.

‘I considered the stars, the smattering of blue-white phosphorescence and wondered how anyone could call the night dark.’

While the primary relationship in the book purports to be between the narrator, Little Dog, and his mother, I didn’t have a sense of who she was, aside from traumatised and hard-working and poor and pretty crazy. I preferred reading about the narrator’s first love and first lover. It captured the pain and excitement, nervousness and tenderness of a same-sex first love like few others I’ve read. And since first lovers become former lovers, that description of separation, loss and grief is beautifully wrought.

Since I’ve only read three books this year, it doesn’t say much that this is the best book I’ve read this year. Let me just say I think this book is gorgeous, and for longer than a brief moment. Highly recommended.

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