Coffee in Sydney: Kwila, Surry Hills

IMG_5571I was thinking that the decor was trippy hipster, but I read that it, in fact, is based on the highlands of Papua New Guinea, a coffee region. I stumbled across this place coming back from Chinatown and because on the way over, the line-up outside of Single Origin was INSANE. Hidden away on Foster Street, this was a much mellower affair but still with a nice buzz. My latte was everything it should be: rich, earthy and flavoursome, but the smile and friendly greeting from the barista (and waitress) make me want to go back for more than coffee. Looks like a nice place for a relaxed lunch. I’ll be there… soon.

Kwila Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Silom Soi Song, Oxford Street

IMG_2904Hurrah! Lao food comes to the Eastern Suburbs. It’s a must try for foodies in search of new flavours.

On frequent work trips to Bangkok, I managed to go to a few restaurants that specialise in Lao food. There are certainly similarities to Thai food, but there are various differences. The Thai journalists sitting next to me, at this special launch of the Lao food menu, told me that Lao food is less spicy than Thai food.

IMG_2899Sticky rice is a staple: this is a favourite of mine, and it’s not so easy to find in Sydney Thai restaurants. Larb, above, is another speciality, mince meat (in this case beef) with chili, ground rice, and herbs.

IMG_2896A dish of fresh vegetables with spicy dips is a staple, as are spicy and sour soups, papaya salads, and the use of beautiful fresh herbs.

I’m excited that Lao food has come to Darlinghurst, as I think one has to travel rather far out of the centre of Sydney to find it.

IMG_2897On Monday night, my better half and I were treated to a banquet of dishes and flavours. A few of the dishes will be unfamiliar to the Western palate but I encourage you to be adventuresome.

IMG_2900A slender piece of beef jerky contrasted in texture with some fresh papaya salad and green beans. Below, a delicious crispy rice salad in a lettuce leaf, Nam Kao, was a subtle, sticky version of the Chinese lettuce wrap.

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I loved the grilled beef tongue, slightly springy, and with the taste of the grill. The sticky pork belly, Moo Sam, was a highlight (below). I also really love sausages from Laos and Northern Thailand, tasty and slightly sour, with an interesting texture.  IMG_2902
I think this one was bamboo shoots, a little bite of vegetarian goodness.   IMG_2901  The Hor Mak Gai will seem familiar for some from Thai restaurants, the glossy, rich sauce on perfectly tender chicken (cooked in a banana leaf) is pretty special indeed.

IMG_2903 I’m not sure whether this will be a usual serving size of dessert, but since the restaurant is situated in the heart of gay Sydney, this is the right size of dessert for gay gym bunnies IMG_2906

I’ll definitely be coming back. I’m curious to know whether they’ll continue to offer this tasting menu, or whether you can order your favourite dishes in larger sizes. For some of the dishes, I really wanted a bigger plate to savour those flavours and textures.

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It will be interesting to see how they do, and I hope they do well. There’s a bit of a tricky balance required I think. Sydneysiders really do love an authenticity of flavour; it’s what has propelled Thai restaurants like Spice I Am, Home and House to great success and crazy crowds.

And yet Oxford Street restaurants can seem conservative, trying to appeal to a lot of different people. I think the Thai journalists next to me at the dinner wanted flavours a little more spicy and a little more pungent. But some of the Sydney boys didn’t know what to do with the beef tongue (eat it, boys) or the biteful of salad that had some chicken feet in it (one could barely tell it was there).

IMG_5558It looks like the restaurant will be offering more traditional Thai food, along with the Lao specialties, so hopefully, there will be enough to please everyone, so they don’t have had to smooth away the interesting edges for those more used to neighbourhood Thai restaurants.

But I do hope Sydney foodies will be lining up outside their door to try some Laotian delights.

Silom Soi Song Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Luyu and Yum Yum

IMG_5377 Surprisingly fabulous dumplings hidden upstairs on King Street, Newtown.

It’s perhaps unfair but there are so many dumplings in Sydney, of which I have eaten a fair few, that I didn’t have high expectations for what I’d heard were interesting dumplings at Luyu and Yum Yum, hidden upstairs in what used to be a cavernous Indian restaurant. But by golly, these were great.

IMG_5372I mean: c’mon. Dumplings with faces on them. Gotta love that. With a perfect crispy dough wrapper on these (and a delicate rice wrapper on the ones I didn’t get a photo of), we were very impressed with the food here, particularly since we’d hoped to try vegan fish and chips that night at Bliss N’ Chips, but ended up drinking too long at Newtown’s various tempting bars.

IMG_5378The space is sleek and chic, feeling rather upmarket compared to many Newtown eateries. The salt and pepper tofu were perfect popcorn-like bits of meat-free goodness. Me want to go back.
Luyu and Yum Yum Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Pei Modern, the Rocks, 2016

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Pei Modern is named after the architect I. M. Pei, who was responsible for Collins Place in Melbourne. After eating at the Sydney location last year, a pre-theatre meal (and very good), I’ve been on their mailing list ever since. Here’s the review from last year… But it took a special meal, called Paddock to Plate, to tempt us back.

IMG_5480It really was quite a special meal. Matching amazing drinks from Young Henrys to a meal where the star was the venison, and the producer, Mandagery Creek, gave a little introduction to themselves and their work.

Each dish was fantastic, with a twist: a burst of colour or a strong flavour or interesting technique. The hasselback potatoes were incredible and we’ve already, successfully, recreated the dish at home. Jerusalem artichokes for dessert was a surprise, and I don’t think burnt bread would be a flavour of ice cream that I’ve tried before.

IMG_5481The flavours of the night were rich and hearty, matching the various ales and stouts. We ate and drank heartily. A great night, and not expensive either. Pei Modern goes on my list of high recommendations for both visitors to Sydney and friends!

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Pei Modern Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: The Dolphin Hotel, Surry Hills

IMG_5556Wow, has the Dolphin ever changed! I’ve been there for many a casual meal and drink over the years; now, taken over from the team behind Icebergs, there is much to explore. First of all, there are three different eating arrangements: casual bar food with mostly pizza and a handful of other options; a fancier restaurant (packed out on the Sunday night we went) and a wine bar, which has some very tricky and complicated (and pricy) snacks to go along with your wine. Meanwhile, the space has been completely redone. I was a little worried at the first photos online; it looks like a messy imitation of Keith Haring, but in person, the spaces look pretty cool and engaging. We kind of like the Christo wrapped-up bar thing going on.

We just opted for casual fare. They have cheap gin and tonics (hurrah!) which I started with, before we split a bottle of an Italian wine of unknown grapes (unknown to me at least, I thought pecarino was a cheese, not a grape; the wine, $46 for the bottle, was very tasty, sort of like a full-bodied chardonnay).

My truffle and mushroom pizza, for $22, had generous shavings of truffle. It didn’t wow me but was pretty tasty. My pal’s minute steak was huge, and really tender, and thin: a hit. Now I’m curious to try the other areas of the place. I have no doubt the Dolphin is going to be busy, if not forever, for quite a while. It’s got a cool factor going for it, even though the bar was cleared out by 10pm (thanks Casino Mike).

Review will be expanded when I try the other parts of the Dolphin!

The Dolphin Hotel Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Coffee in Sydney: Sample, Surry Hills

IMG_5535It’s hard to give a proper review for such a simple menu, and where I’ve admittedly only had the coffee. Or perhaps it makes the review more proper by just focusing on one thing. Coffee! I’m not sure why I like this place so much, and there’s lots of other competition on the street.

IMG_5533But with only a handful of seats and groovy design, friendly service and excellent coffee, I find myself going back here whenever I’m in the neighbourhood. And, as I discovered the last time I was there, you can sit down and be in the range of the Pokemon Go gym at the Quaker House on Devonshire Street. Fuel up on caffeine and battle away!

Sample Coffee Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Chinta Ria, Westfield CBD

IMG_5536 On arriving in Sydney (more years ago than I’ll mention), I found it pretty wonderful to be introduced to Malaysian cuisine. I wasn’t familiar with it from growing up in Vancouver, IMG_5541nor knew it from my travels. The Cantonese-influenced dishes were recognisable, but the classic Char Kway Teow was not exactly the same as the version Mom made, or that we’d eat in a Cantonese noodle house. It had stronger spices, and I think that’s the difference in general: more sweet tones, stickier sauces, stronger flavours.

We popped into the Westfield CBD branch of Chinta Ria on a Thursday night in Sydney . I once took my folks here to the one in Darling Harbour when they visited! Here, impressively, you step out of a brightly lit space of a shopping mall, and the atmosphere is moody and cool. We were seated in a tiny alcove off to the left which felt a bit like a private dining room. It was fun.

IMG_5537I was too curious to pass up the banquet menu, though we chose to add a duck dish to it… There are a lot of dishes listed on the banquet menu so I wasn’t sure how they’d fit them all in, but it was basically smaller portions of everything – which was a good thing, considering the extra dish we ordered.

IMG_5538Having just a bit of many things is not always the best approach. It doesn’t necessarily let the flavours sing out, and so the duck, a full order, split between two of us, ridiculously tender and in a thick salty sauce, was a highlight.

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Oh, our waitress was also a highlight. She was a blast. Your Malaysian aunty who will make sure you have an excellent meal.

Loved the green sago and coconut dessert, and I liked that they challenged us with a durian dessert though agh: that flavour is too strong for me.

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Ah, we also had an excellent cocktail each, beforehand, and they offer wines by the glass at a reasonable cost. All up, very well fed and alcoholised, $200 for the two of us. A pleasant night.

Chinta Ria - Mood for Love Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Sydney Food Diary: Cornerstone Bar & Food

IMG_5542 I’ve had a bit of a funny experience with trying to get into Cornerstone. I wanted to try it for breakfast a few times but arrived too early at the market on Saturday. Another time, some fashion event seemed to take over the restaurant. And another time, after a show, the kitchen had closed.

IMG_5545But I did manage to get in for breakfast, snacks and drinks at various occasions. Still, this time (Friday night), I actually wanted to pay attention. How’s the food?

I remember it being a smart menu but I couldn’t remember how good it was. I’m pleased to report that it was really fantastic. My pal had a beef brisket burger on a fantastically black bun, served up with fries. His assessment that it was extremely messy to eat, and tasty, and had a sort of burnt theme to it, from the meat to the bun to the fries, but not unpleasantly so.

My grilled korean chicken was so simple, but so perfect. Really tender. Lovely sauce (I think with a sesame influence). With a really fresh handful of greens on top, I was really impressed.

Plus a waiter came over and asked us how our meals were, and the guy who took our order was friendly and in a chatty mood. A very pleasant quick meal before we caught the Friday night showing of the play, Winyanboga Yurringa.

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Cornerstone Bar & Food Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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Paris Diary: On the sweet trail, South Pigalle

Here’s my latest article to appear online on Bonjour Paris, a fun ‘Insider’s Guide’ to the City of Lights.

Here’s the full article.

Below is a preview to whet your appetite…

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It’s easy to get dazzled by Sacre Coeur and the charms of Montmartre, but just across a grand boulevard (Clichy or Rochechouart, take your pick) are the delights of South Pigalle. While you wouldn’t go amiss stocking up on stylish vintage clothes, or nabbing a ridiculously cool item of clothing at Stephane Ashpool’s boutique, Pigalle (as written up in the New York Times and with a high, high amount of  international cool factor), my recommendation is to follow your sweet tooth. Because you’re in Paris: why not? …

And now, head here.

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Home cooking: Whole wheat no-knead bread

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The finished product: freshly baked bread makes me happy.

I’m not sure how in middle age I have become a baker of bread, but it’s a welcome development. I remember marvelling every time a college classmate, Shelley, would make bread. It seemed mostly simple, somewhat complex and an awfully beautiful thing to do. But I never bothered trying myself.

Last year though, on Australia’s Masterchef, one of the judges, Matt Preston, showed the contestants how to make a very easy bread that you simply mix up, put in the refrigerator over night, and then bake the next day. I tried it a few times and it was good, but I was inspired last month to do more research.

I found a recipe in the New York Times and then see that a fellow named Jim Lahey has been inspiring thousands of folks around the world to be making bread, without kneading the dough. The trick seems to be using a Dutch oven (or a French oven, a Creuset or Chasseur), and heating it up beforehand.

The first version that I saw seemed to be done as quick as possible, in as little as five hours. I tried it out, and it was pretty good, though a little flat, and something wasn’t quite right. Then I followed some recipes that said you don’t have to bother with the Dutch oven, and in fact, a loaf pan helps give the bread a traditional rectangular shape. But I tried this, and didn’t like the crust.

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Dry ingredients mixed with wet and put in a greased bowl for anywhere from 4 hours to overnight (and then some)

Finally, I watched a video where NYT’s Mark Bittman proposed to Mark Lahey that he could make a version in a few hours, rather than 14 to 20. I also tried out a few different flours in the hopes of making a bread with more whole-wheat flour. Harris Farm Markets was the saviour for finding rye flour: a kilo for $4 I think it was (it’s ridiculously expensive at About Life, and not available at all in Coles and Woolies). Bread with other flour than white flour is supposed to be a bit flatter and heavier. I’m still experimenting! I’d recommend the first time, just use white flour.

As much for my notes as to share with friends, here’s my favourite adaptation of Jim Lahey’s recipe, with various extra little tips.

Easy, tasty whole wheat and rye bread

(thanks to Jim Lahey and Mark Bittman)

1 cup of whole wheat flour (if you don’t have other flours, just use 2.5 cups of white flour)
1 cup of rye flour
1/2 cup of white flour
1/2 cup of corn meal (I love the texture that the corn meal adds to the bread)
1.5 tsp of salt
1 tsp of yeast

1.5 cups of hot water (apparently not too hot, which might kill the yeast)
1/4 tsp of red wine vinegar (Bittman’s innovation, said to speed the process, often missing from online recipes)

Mix the dry ingredients really well. Add the liquid and mix well. Transfer to an oiled bowl with a tight lid. Cover and rest at room temperature. Now, Mark Bittman says you can get away with 4 hours for this, but I’ve learned that there’s no rush for me. I’m happy to leave the dough overnight.

img_5820Then, for the second rise, you can dump the dough out onto a cutting board, and fold it over a couple of times, and reshape into a ball. Some recipes say to shape it with oiled hands, others with floured hands. My dough has been a bit too sticky and wet so putting flour on my hands and shaping the dough is a good way to get it to a better consistency.

img_5821Then I put it back into the same bowl, which goes counter to all the recipes which say to leave it on a counter with a dish cloth over it, which strikes me as kind of messy (and unnecessary really; all it needs is a cover so it doesn’t dry out). When the dough has doubled again, it’s ready. Bittman says this can be as short as half an hour, but I don’t mind leaving it for a hour or so. Another way it’s ready, apparently, is if you stick your finger into the dough and the indentation stays there (which disappears during baking). However, I’ve read a disputed of this lately that says that there should be a little spring back. More experimentation is needed (as my bread is still a bit too dense).

img_5822In the meantime, half an hour before you’re ready, heat the dutch oven, lid on, in the oven at 230C. Many bakers worry that the plastic handle on the Creuset and Chasseur will melt, and is only good up to 220C. On advice from the interweb, I found you can buy a metal handle from Creuset that fits the Chasseur pot just fine (before that, I was wrapping the handle in aluminum foil).

After half an hour at 230C, take the Dutch oven out and put the dough in; it doesn’t matter what shape it goes as it will spread out a little. I sometimes sprinkle some chia seeds or sunflower seeds on top. You can slash the top with a knife if you’d like. Then it goes back into the oven with the lid on for half an hour. Then remove the lid and bake for another 15 minutes (recipes say up to 30 but I’ve never needed this). I sometimes check to see if the internal temperature is between 90 and 100C (I’m not so precise, should I be?) and then cool it on a rack.

And then of course, the most important part: eat some while it’s still hot. It is so good, it’s like another food group! It’s not quite the same the next day, but it is fine toasted! In the meantime, I’ve upped the complexity (and flavour) of my bread, and am experimenting with this Rye and Molasses Bread. And my better half is actually making sourdough bread, from a starter, which is much more complicated but I have to admit: much more delicious.

Posted in Advice, Food n' Grog, Home cooking | 1 Comment