Restaurant Review: Geranium, Copenhagen (Pt 2)

Ready for the second half of your Saturday lunch. Let’s dig in, shall we?

“Dillstone”, Horseradish & Granita from Pickled Cucumber

This was meant to be a surprise until you tasted it (fish as I recall). For some reason, I loved this one most of all, the presentation, the surprise, the texture and the flavour.

As you can see below, sometimes, the presentation wasn’t particularly complicated. This gave the meal a nice rhythm and variation, and the flavours sang out in the quietest of dishes.

Milky Cheese and Fermented Carrot

On the other hand, the Razor Clams, which really did look like Razor Clams, but had an edible shell, were spectacular for how complicated they were… Great taste, witty imitation, obviously a feat of engineering to create!

“Razor Clams”

This was pretty fun. Moss is tastier than you’d think!

“Vesterhavet” Sea Buckthorn, Heather & Moss

As with everywhere else we went to in ScandiwegiaFinlandia, one of the courses was amazing homemade bread with homemade butter. Amusing since folks are so anti-gluten, anti-carbohydrate and anti-starch these days. These were JUST amazing (and warm and toasty).

Bread with Emmer & Spelt

Onions, Chamomile & Melted Hay Cheese

Lightly smoked mussels, Radish Flowers and Algies

I like how they would talk about a vegetable, but it might turn out to just be a foam, or a sauce or a condiment or some sort of essence of that vegetable. I think here the fermented cabbage was the sauce. I did notice that when they served fish, there was not much flavour, nor was it smothered in butter or a strong-flavoured sauce. It was always quite subtle, paired with an interesting vegetable that actually became the star of the dish.

Pike Perch and Fermented Cabbage

Also, at a time when we’re being encouraged to eat less meat, less red meat, and when we do eat it, to eat high quality meat, it was a pleasure that there would only be one or two red meat courses. It made the meat perhaps more tasty in contrast!

Venison, Smoked Lard & Beetroot

Any region that considers lard a food group is OK with me. Now, here was a great surprise. Part of the Geranium experience is that EVERY table gets ushered into the kitchen for a dessert course. There’s a special table at the back.

Observing the mastery

Everyone was quiet and concentrating and moving with silence and grace. It was very fun to watch.

Kitchen Man

Meanwhile, we had the most amazing dessert with the intriguing description of Woodsorrel & Woodruff, which I think sounds like a new indy band.

Woodsorrel & Woodruff

It really was cool to be in the kitchen.

Amused in the kitchen

Then we had another dessert…

“Fallen Apples”, Elder & Dried Leaves

And finally (hang in there, we’re on the home stretch), prunes in the shape of a tree, a little disk of cold beer and cream…

Prunes, Dark Beer & Cream with Beech Wood

A final perfect morsel to finish the evening: a Green Egg of chocolate…

Green Egg

We didn’t eat the pinecones, were given the fantastic menus as we left as well as a little box with homemade candy (black currant & liquorice) and just before I left, the waitress arranged for me to get this photo:

Andy & Rasmus

I felt a bit starstruck after the amazing meal we’d had.

I know the internet is awash in photos of food, and that some people find it all a little much but I’ve loved sharing this experience with y’all, and having photos to remember this meal.

Lunch was a great option. Good lighting for photos. And we had a leisurely cycle back to the city instead of falling into a food coma.

I hope you get to experience this restaurant for yourself, offline, sometime in your lifetime.

Don’t miss part 1 of this post if your search engine happened to land you here first…