I love a food gimmick. There’s a Buzzfeed post going around making fun of hipster food gimmicks, but for me, the problem is when the gimmick loses its originality, or it was never a very good trick in the first place, probably lacking in intelligence or interfering with the enjoyment of the food itself. So, of course we had to try Privé de Dessert, where all of the savoury dishes are designed to look like sweet French pastries, and two of the desserts are designed to look like savoury dishes.
Some of the tricks were less tempting than others. I loved the sound of the macaroni and cheese with truffles, but would it be that hard to pretend that it’s a cheesecake? In any case, the mixed appetizers was a great way to try a bit of everything and see how this concept worked. Try, if you dare, to match up the mini-entrées from the menu to the plate below. We decided it was basically fun, and because everything was delicious, it was acceptable fun!
As for the mains, I had to try the Mont Blanc, as I like the real thing, a chestnut pastry. Here (and pictured at the top), chestnut flavoured mash potatoes imitated the icing, covering up some crisp, nicely cooked fish. My better half had Tiramisu, actually beef cheeks with mashed potatoes, and yup, it looked like a gigantic serving of Tiramisu. With gravy.
They offer three glasses of wine to match three courses for a very reasonable 15 euros so we had to do this (and were pleased with generous pourings), and then had to have dessert. S. had a chocolate fondant, not trying to be anything else, but my platter, with probably the most amusing imitations of the night – orange-coloured crepes arranged like cold cuts of meat, a tasty chocolate marshmallow log that looked like a salami or dried sausage, and tiny green madeleines that were to recall pickles – it was nice, but simply too much food.
I could have exploded. All in all, a fun experience with great service and a cool concept. The restaurant is pretty new, apparently, and I think the story goes started by a Chinese webmaster who did a pastry course, and then eventually assembled her team to create her dream restaurant. Seems to be doing well, and as a a bonus is in one of the coolest neighbourhoods around.
A fun, unusual meal. Too much food, but that would have been our fault…
4 rue Lallier